The Balcony - Silom Soi 4

The Balcony, one of the oldest stand-bys of Bangkok's Silom Soi 4 is observing their 12th anniversary at the moment. I say “observing” because with the uproar in the immediate area there I don’t suppose it’s quite the festive environment it usually is so it can’t help but be a little short of a proper celebration.

There was an article in the Bangkok Post a few days ago in which the manager said he’d lost “90% of his customers since the red shirts moved to Silom,” which was costing the Balcony “more than 50,000 baht per night in business”. That’s a major blow.

There’s more to the article but since that’s not the focus of this post you can read it here if you wish.

On my second trip to Thailand I was on my own, excited by the idea of wandering around in a strange place. I’d heard about massage shops and had a couple recommended to me but had carelessly left my notes stateside so had no idea how to find them. I did remember being taken to some colorful areas near the Sala Daeng BTS station by friends on my first trip two months before so that’s where I went wandering late on my first morning in Bangkok, hoping to find one of the free tourist maps you see stacked near the entrance of many clubs.

Luckily I remembered a few visual landmarks so I didn’t waste time walking too far, although the whole area looks very different when the sidewalks are free of the bee hive atmosphere that is Silom and Patpong by night. Finding the corner of Silom and Soi 4 I peered down a bright but deserted street. The only living creatures there to greet me were a few cats; again, very different than a mere 12 hours before. Venturing down the soi I found every likely spot closed tighter than a drum - except the Balcony. With their terrace chairs and tables stacked tightly inside it was obvious it wasn’t open for business, but the doors were rolled up.

I looked from the doorway to the top of the bar for a stack of maps, but there were none visible. Stopping to listen for signs of life I heard only the rumble of cars and trucks on Silom and I hesitated to step into the club and have someone come out and think I was up to no good, so I just stood there, wondering where to try next.

Moments later I heard movement from the second floor, and then footsteps coming down the stairs. I’m sorry to say I don’t remember his name and don’t intend to start a game of “Name That Torso” but you can see 98% of him in the photo below.

He seemed a little surprised to see me; perhaps thinking I was looking for a menu, not realizing they weren’t open for business. “Map?” I asked, getting the anticipated blank stare. I pantomimed picking one up off of the countertop, going through elaborate moves to imply I was looking and pointing like a visitor - doing nothing to reinforce my sanity, I’m sure. His face brightened as he understood and I thought “Wow, he got it!”

“No have,” he said matter-of-factly. When my smile dropped he said “Wait” and went behind the bar, looking around underneath the polished counter. When he stood back up he had a triumphant smile on his face as he held up the grail I’d been seeking. Reaching over the bar he handed it to me with a quick nod and smile as I thanked him before he went back about his rounds, cleaning and arranging. I remember that act of kindness as an early example of the hospitality of the Balcony, and hope the owners manage to hang on during this extremely low “Low Season”.

Happy Anniversary, guys. Hope I’ll see you again next time.

The Balcony's website