Isaan Odyssey, Part 8: Atop A Volcano

Suphot gives some perspective to the size of one of the buildings at Phanom Rung

[This is Part 8 of a series. If you found this via a search or just happened upon it some other way you can find parts 1 through 7 by scrolling down the Labels in the right-hand column and clicking on "Isaan Oddysey".]

Khao Phanom Rung is an extinct volcano that looms above Buriram, Thailand. Well, it's probably extinct; the 1,300 foot (396 meter) peak is believed to have been dormant for 900,000 years, and that's a decent nap as volcanoes go.

Somewhere along about the 10th century AD the then-resident Khmer thought it would be a fitting place to build a Hindu temple, and that led to the construction over the next three centuries of the complex of Prasat Hin Phanom Rung (Phanom Rung Stone Castle), or Phanom Rung, as it's known today. The main buildings are just above the green dot on the satellite image to the left. Work to restore it began in 1971 and it was ready for re-opening as a tourist attraction in 1988; the largest of its kind in Thailand.

It's also the closest example you're likely to find of what the temples around the Angkor area of Cambodia look like. Actually, some believe it was a forerunner to Angkor Wat itself, although that's a far, far larger structure.

The laterite-type rock they used for the foundation, stairs and walkways is very strong; the pink sandstone used for many of the buildings is softer, but it's all stone that had to be hauled up the mountain. Sandstone is easier to form into blocks and carve detail into, but it's still heavy. You can see the holes they drilled into the blocks to run rope through in the picture of the five-headed naga below.

It was later in the afternoon by the time we took the road up a healthy incline to the parking area for the site. Suphot parked the car while I looked at the long row of stalls selling souvenirs and craft items of varying quality.

When he caught up with me we began our walk up the hill to the beginning of the stairs. As we made our way up we passed a large area where people had stopped to stack stones. I've seen examples of this from cultures of many countries, and it was nice to see here what I took to be the more Buddhist tradition of paying respect while wishing for good fortune. I stopped and stacked a short stack myself.

I didn't expect there to be so many ahead of us or I would have taken a rough count from ground level up to the top. I'd already seen enough by the time we reached this level, but as you can see, there were more to come. They were a little steep, and there naturally were no railings to spoil the look. That can be a bit of a challenge for some of us when descending them.

This was, however, our first glimpse of the Khmer-style chedi that is the main tower of the temple. I'm facing West taking this. Khmer temples face East to catch the morning sun (it's a luck thing). The laterite stone walkway is lined with 70 sandstone posts, each topped by a lotus bud.

Once we'd climbed the five sets of stairs in the photo above we were (should memory serve) at temple level. I turned and took a picture of the stairs we'd just climbed and the horizon off in the haze to the East... and that's where I think we'll close for today.

[Coming up next in Part 9: The temple buildings and some panoramas of Phanom Rung]

Isaan Odyssey, Part 7: Phra Narai Ratchanivet

Chang (elephant) topiary beside the wall in Phra Narai Ratchanivet, Lopburi

[This is Part 7 of a series. If you found this via a search or just happened upon it some other way you can find parts 1 through 6 by scrolling down the Labels in the right-hand column and clicking on "Isaan Oddysey".]

After our early morning stop at Phra Prang Sam Yot to make merit and monkey around we drove a short ways towards the center of town, to the ruins of King Narai's palace at Phra Narai Ratchanivet. Built (roughly) between 1665 and 1677, this palace was built when King Narai decided to make what is now Lopburi into the second capitol of the Ayutthaya kingdom.

It was abandoned after Narai's death in 1688 and lay fallow until it was restored by Rama IV and renamed Narai Ratchanivet. Although it's now a well-maintained park its structures have returned to bare stones and brick; an interesting blend of French and Khmer architecture. Note the points to the tops of the doorways as an example.

As you can see if you enlarge the panorama above there are multiple small shelf-like indentations built into the walls near the doorways, where I'm told the cremated remains of important religious figures (monks and the likes) were placed for their final rest - sort of an outdoor version of a columbarium you'd expect to find at a cemetery or old church in Europe or the Americas. You can see a detail of one of those to the left here, blackened by ages of candle flames.

There was a peaceful feeling about the grounds, especially beneath the trees in the area around the throne hall. The roots have found purchase over the years and now wind up and around some of the stones.

Here are a couple of panoramas from my wanderings around the grounds. In the first one below you can see more niches for cremated remains.

I appreciated the way the areas were respected and left unmolested by visitors at this and other sites on this trip. No "tagging", no trash dumped where people finished with things, nothing carved into the stone. Here at home such relics would need to be cordoned off or guarded to protect them.

In fact, the only things I remember being protected were some relics in a couple of small museum-like rooms that contained crafts found excavated from the area and the skeletal remains of a few folks that I didn't note information on, sorry to say.

However, if what I did note is correct the grounds are open Wednesday through Sunday, from 07:30 to 17:30. Admission was next to nothing.

When I'd looked around long enough Suphot reminded me that we still had some distance to cover and another stop to make before landing where we'd be spending the night, so I followed him (and these two boys on their bicycle) along the path and out to his truck to move on.

Thai TV Commercials 1

Later this morning I'll be fulfilling the somber obligation of sitting in a memorial service for the father of a friend I've known for 40 years. While it's the natural course of life, for me these things are often a rude reminder of how unpredictable our journeys are as we walk our individual paths. None of us know what's ahead around the next bend, really; although we're sometimes given clues and chances to have some input via our choices and actions.

As a back-up to that thought, a insurance company in Thailand has done several commercials playing on the very emotions associated with the unpredictability of life. I have a few favorites that I'm sharing with you today. If you have others you like, let us know via a comment down below.

The first one (up top today) was filmed at the Srisangwan School for disabled children that I defy anyone to watch without being moved at least a little bit. The school was begun in 1965 as part of the The Princess Mother’s Volunteer Foundation, established in honor of Her Royal Highness the Princess Mother Somdej Phra Sri Nakharindra Boromaraj Chonni.

Watching it you can't help but feel for the children - who may or may not have much of a grasp on what challenges are probably ahead for them - and the mothers who try to be supportive and cheerful but do have some idea of what's ahead. The editing makes it clear that they're thinking of it as the song goes along and their smiles become a bit forced.

While I'm waxing a bit maudlin: the video clip below is a somewhat soppy tug at the heartstrings by the same Thai insurance company, but it's well done enough to deserve a watch. I wouldn't call it "awesome" (as it's labeled) but I thought it served as a nice reminder to be a little more tolerant and understanding with everyone. The English subtitles were added by someone who deserves a tip of the hat.

...and as long as I'm hauling out the manipulative media, this last one of may be the most sappy of the three, but it's also well done. The father's message at the end hits fairly close to home for me, so I may be just a little prejudiced in its favor.

Thai Smiles, Part 28: Workers In Pattaya

A streetside BBQ vendor, Pattaya

This looks as though it's going to be a busy weekend for me, so rather than just ditch the regulars until Monday I figured we'd go back to a series that many seem to enjoy and run another in the Thai Smiles series.

In addition to the BBQ vendor above, these are all folks who work at various service jobs in the Pattaya area:

...a bartender and waiters on a slow afternoon...

... two flower vendors at their market stall one morning...

...and a waiter, after bringing me my breakfast.

Have a nice weekend, everyone! See you back here on Monday, if not before.

Isaan Odyssey, Part 6: Making Merit In Lopburi

One of the chedi (towers) at Phra Prang Sam Yot in Lopburi

[This is Part 6 of a series. If you found this via a search or just happened upon it some other way you can find parts 1 through 5 by scrolling down the Labels in the right-hand column and clicking on "Isaan Oddysey".]

I awoke around 07:00, and although I'd slept well going back to sleep seemed like a good idea... until I realized I was in a new place on the second day of a week-long road trip. The drapes were open about half way, and the room was cast in the golden light of early morning.

Other than the quiet hum of the mini-refrigerator it was silent in the room, the silence finally broken by the chirping of birds on my balcony. I got out of bed and went over to the table across the room for some water before going to shower, dress and meet Supot downstairs for breakfast. I figured he was up so I didn't bother to call next door to see.

The strong coffee was a welcome sight, as was the warm toast, pressed into jam-filled pillows. The breakfast was small (one egg and one basic sausage with a couple slices of tomato) but along with the toast it was enough to do what it's intended to do: break the overnight fast.

After we'd finished, checked out of the Sabai Hotel and made a stop at a 7-Eleven to stock up on water and a few sundry items we drove the few minutes back into the center of town to Phra Prang Sam Yot, the monkey-ruled ruins you saw in yesterday's post. Before walking over to the ruins themselves we parked close to the active temple and walked around a bit.

I climbed the stairs and, leaving my shoes outside - as always at temples in Thailand - followed the locals inside to make merit. Normally I feel less conspicuous there if I don't join in with the candles, incense and kneeling with them, but I did stop to the side and follow my usual routine when in a temple of my belief, such as this one.

Making morning merit in Lopburi

There were many of the faithful there that morning, as I suspect there are every morning. Some made special offerings of chicken and pig, all carefully arranged on plates with incense added to them. Other than the murmuring of those in prayer it was quiet inside the small area, save for the rumblings of the morning commute traffic nearby.

Although they're obviously not smiling, the way the pig's heads are split to make the offering always makes me think that they are.

Yesterday I mentioned there'd be more monkeys in today's post, so here's a clip of the monkeys having their morning meal outside this temple and another shot of a couple of macaque monkeys (better known to some Westerners at Rhresus monkeys) grooming atop one of the ledges at the temple across the street.

[Coming up next in Part 7: Another spot in Lopburi - Phra Narai Ratchanivet]

Isaan Odyssey, Part 5: Monkey Business At Phra Prang Sam Yot

Panorama of Phra Prang Sam Yot, bathed in the morning light

[This is Part 5 of a series. If you found this via a search or just happened upon it some other way you can find parts 1 through 4 by scrolling down the Labels in the right-hand column and clicking on "Isaan Oddysey".]

Phra Prang Sam Yot (above) is located in what's referred to as the "Old Town" part of Lopburi. The ruins sit by themselves on flat, un-landscaped ground, surrounded by commercial buildings and completely overrun by macaque monkeys. The working wat used by the locals is across the intersection, behind where I'm standing to take the photo below.

The monkeys reign supreme throughout this entire area. There was a sign in the courtyard of the wat that read "Beware of monkeys snatching your purse", but they're not that picky; they'll go for anything they think may contain something edible or looks like something they might be able to entertain themselves with in some way.

As humans aren't all that far removed from these little creatures it was interesting to see them sipping with straws from bottles of water they'd snatched away from someone, or nurturing their babies as the mother's doing to the left.

I saw sunglasses snatched from a visitor who'd put them up on top of his head and then not stayed aware of monkeys near him. Even when they were just sitting they were scanning the area for potential victims and items.

People fed them in the courtyard outside the wat. Bags of leftover greens were being picked through when I was there, and people were buying peanuts to toss on the ground - sort of a "create your own photo opportunity" thing. There were so many on the ground already that I didn't bother adding to them.

We had a self-appointed "guide" as we looked around the ruins across the street. I don't remember the kid's name, but he began walking with us and pointing things out, doing a minor amount of narration in Thai. Pot translated some for me, but I was wandering and taking pictures on my own some of the time. As part of the entertainment the boy would taunt the monkeys with a stick he was carrying as a pointer. He doesn't get bit in the clip below but he came pretty close shortly after I'd stopped recording. Either he was playing hookey from school that day or he wasn't in school - I didn't find out. You can read more about that in a post here about sponsoring students who's families can afford to send them to school.

At the site the monkeys were the only moving creatures, other than the three of us. Juveniles clambered around, pulling themselves up the sides of the ruins (as in the clip below) and practiced social skill between themselves, the older ones often picking on the smaller ones, again rather like humans do...

They were everywhere. Across the street they clambered over cars, shops and buildings; using the always questionable Thai cables and wiring as they moved from place to place. Monkeys being as curious as they are I kept expecting to hear a loud BANG and smell charred simian coming from a smoking black heap on the sidewalk, but evidently they've learned not to "monkey" with the dangerous points - although the one below looked as though he either was considering it or had seen enough of this particular existence.

[Next up in Part 6: Making Merit at Phra Prang Sam Yot -and more monkeys]

Accommodations, Part 10: Sabai Hotel, Lopburi

Part of the grounds at the Sabai Hotel. I stayed in this wing, overlooking the open space.

While many of you reading this might not ever venture outside of the regular areas (Bangkok, Chiang Mai, Pattaya and Phuket) there are probably some of you who will become enamored enough with the country to return more than once or twice and want to explore a little more. This post is for you.

Lopburi was the second capitol (after Ayutthaya) and boasts quite a number of sites of both Thai and Khmer history, but it's known also for the fields of sunflowers that seem to stretch out forever in December and January - and the enormous population of macaques monkeys, who truly overrun parts of the city.

If you want to you can book hotels that are enclosed in a cage to make it safe to open your windows, but that sounds a little too "backwards zoo" for me... might be fun, though. From the Mo Chit bus station in Bangkok you can catch an air-conditioned bus for a few dollars and be there in three hours, give or take.

In the Pho Talat Kaew area, two or three kilometers outside of the busy downtown area of "Old Town" of Lopburi is the Sabai Hotel and Plaza complex. I call it a complex because there appeared to be two or three wings on both sides of Highway 311. They didn't understand the question and I didn't understand the answer, but I'm going to say I heard them tell me they have over 200 rooms altogether. When we passed through on our trip room rates were 350 to 450 baht per night, including LAN internet access.

I was on a week-long road trip into Isaan (that series starts here) and booked two rooms; one for myself and one for my guide, and the total charge of 900 bath ($30USD today) was certainly more than reasonable.

As you can see above, the rooms were simple but had a private balcony with a nice view, air conditioning, internet, cable TV, good water pressure from the water heater in the shower, a wardrobe and a refrigerator. There was no room safe.

The view from my balcony, which faced East

...and a panorama taken from a different angle

For those of you who count a pool as important, here's the large pool area:

The food was what you should expect in a country setting: basic, cooked to order and closer to home made. I had no stomach problems after my meals there, and the prices were good.

One last photo today, just because I liked the way the golden early morning light illuminated this spot in my room.

The Sabai hotel doesn't have an active web site that I could find, but I did find an email address (sa-bai-hotel@hotmail.com) and their phone number is listed as +66-2664-5200. Their address is 83 Mu 6 Lopburi-Singburi, Tambon Pho Talat Kaeo, Aphoe Tha Wung, Lopburi, Thailand, 15150.

Isaan Odyssey, Part 4 : Wat Yai Chai Mongkhol

The East side of the main chedi at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhol

[This is Part 4 of a series. If you found this via a search or just happened upon it some other way you can find part 1 here part 2 here and part 3 here.]

After leaving the Summer Palace at Bang Pa-in we drove another 20 kilometers or so further to our next stop, Wat Yai Chai Mongkhol, stopping for lunch along the way at a typical roadside eatery.

As you can see below, many of these restaurants are open-air affairs, with the sides open to allow circulation. The kitchen area and the dining area weren't divided and the flavorful scent of food cooking would waft through the area with the breeze. Trying to follow my own advice to folks about staying healthy in Thailand I was eating carefully that day so I had chicken over rice, and stood there and watched the woman prepare it; putting it into a mesh ladle and dunking it into very hot water to heat it before putting it over the rice with some green herbs. Quite tasty!

Watching my lunch being prepared at a roadside restaurant

As is often the case with alliteration and translations from Thai to English there's some question as to the spelling of Wat Yai Chai Mongkhol; some sources list it as "Mongkhon," too. When you try getting an accurate date as to when it was built using the Buddhist Era calendars and variations on that theme things get more confusing than this old fool can follow, so I'm going to stick with the spelling on the sign out front (Mongkhol) and say it was built somewhere in the neighborhood of 1360 AD, although it's believed by many that there was a settlement here even before the "old" capitol city of Ayutthaya was established in 1351.

There's an interesting site on the History of Ayuttaya that goes into much more detail than we will today, so if you're interested you can click on the link above to read more - but don't forget to come back! For you cartographers, the map below (tweaked slightly) is from that site. Yai Chai Mongkhol is the greenish spot to the lower right on the map.

Map from History of Ayutthaya

The two main sights here are the reclining Buddha statue (above), draped by the monks with cloth, as are some of the smaller chedi. For reasons I can't recall I didn't climb up the stairs on the East side of the main stupa itself, pictured up top today, but my guess is that the view is impressive.

As you can imagine, thousands of the faithful have come to this spot to make merit. There were dozens of flower offerings and plenty of gold leaf, as you can see on the Buddha statue above. And yes, I looked: there was indeed gold on the back of the Buddha.

My guide Suphot had more of personal connection to the temple than I knew about before arriving there, although if I hadn't walked right by it he might not have even mentioned it, unassuming person that he is.

While I was wandering around he pointed to a marble base beneath a Buddha figure in a glass case. I was a little puzzled as to why he'd be pointing out that specific detail - as nice as the marble work was - until he told me that he and his brother had actually worked the marble and made the base when he was somewhere around 26 years old. He said they'd also worked a month smoothing the marble floors of the monk's hall, but it was locked and I couldn't get a proper picture through the windows.

Suphot in front of the marble work he and his brother did for Wat Yai Chai Mongkhol

The grounds here were of course no where near as extensive and elaborate as those we'd seen a few hours earlier at the Royal's Summer Palace, but they were of a different era and picturesque, nevertheless.

The rows of Buddha statues you see in the panorama above and the picture below are not the originals, as weather and circumstances over time had left them in need of replacement, but it was nice to see some with heads for a change; so many at historical sites there have been trashed by marauders, political upheavals and the likes.

After I'd had enough sun and heat for the time being I asked Pot if there was something at the site I'd missed (after all, he'd spent plenty of time there during his marble-working days) and when he said we'd covered it fairly well I told him I was ready to go.

We climbed back into his pickup and headed back out along the highway, stopping briefly for a re-fueling before leaving town on our way towards Lopburi, our scheduled stop for the night. The truck he drove then ran on bio-diesel fuel that not every filling station stocked, so we looked at a few before pulling into a station for the 38 liters it took to fill the tank.

One last look at Yai Chai Mongkhol. I'm rather fond of this image.

Now about 22 kilometers from Lopburi we sailed along the well-maintained highway at a reasonable clip. We had no reservations at our destination but Pot was confident we wouldn't have any trouble finding a place - and we didn't, really. We ended up about 2 kilometers away from the crowded downtown area at the Sabai Hotel, a surprisingly large place that I'll probably do as a separate item for the "Accomodations" series.

We arrived there about 16:00/4:00pm and I booked a room for each of us, telling Pot I was going to go lie down for a bit and that he could come knock on my door to wake me whenever he felt like finding dinner. Two minutes after I lay down on the bed to watch TV I was sound asleep. Maybe less.

I awoke at 19:00, found Pot on the phone with his brother and we went downstairs to have dinner in the small outdoor restaurant at the hotel. Simple country cooking, shared with good company beneath the already dark Lopburi sky. The Isaan moon was full and bright as it rose over the trees to the East, and as I waved good night to Pot and climbed up the stairs to my room I stood on the landing and looked at it for a while, smiling a self-satisfied smile as I said to myself "Now this is really Thailand."

[Next up in Part 5: Monkey Business at Phra Prang Sam Yot]