Through My Viewfinder, Pt. 1: Miscellaneous Bangkok

Call it what you will... I can't see the "fun" in this place

I freely admit I overuse the word "wander", but it best describes how I choose to spend a lot of time while on holiday, wherever that may be, and the implication that it's an unhurried walk around looking at people, places and things is often an apt description.

What remains of the canal below the Chong Nonsi BTS station

It probably goes without saying that I take a lot of pictures while on these casual excursions. I tend to group them for posts here by category, and that often leaves some of them in a batch that don't quite fit into any specific niche.  This series is an attempt to gather some of these digital "orphans" together and share them, if for no other reason than they pleased my eye at the time and I'd like to pass them along.

A Mexican restaurant near Silom Soi 4, if not on it... I'm not sure

A good friend and fellow blogger recently added his vote while we were on the phone that my composition skills leave a bit (OK, more than a bit) to be desired, but hey - everyone's a critic! Some people make baseless criticism their life's work. I don't understand the satisfaction in that, so I'll leave it to them and wish them well with it. I myself already know several reasonably well-known painters and photographers who support themselves quite well with their work, and if they say my composition skills suck, they probably do, wo who am I to argue?  Leaves me room for improvement, I suppose - and isn't that what the journey's mainly about, anyway?

The early morning sky, reflected in the wavy glass of an office building in the Sathorn area

So, here's Part One. As I now have well over 50,000 images from Thailand it could go on a while. Don't tempt me.

By the way... to address a recent message (and for those who don't read the introductory flotsam and jetsam on sites they visit) yes, unless I note otherwise I do take all of the images I post here myself. Wouldn't be honest if I didn't. Hopefully this puts the subject to rest again for a while.

An oddly-angled intersection near Siam Discovery

As always, comments are always welcome. Hope you enjoy the pictures.

Thai Smiles, Part 56: More Random Folks

I may have used this in the past somewhere. Apologies if so, but it's one I like.

OK, I guess the "break's" about over: I'm back from a stay in Hawaii. For a lot of you that probably conjures up images of beaches, umbrella drinks and lazy days, but this trip was to inter a family member's ashes and begin clearing their houseful of possessions - a good 65 years' worth. We put a very small dent in the total.

I learned that muggy and dusty don't play well together. I'd like to call it a fine patina of history you accumulate on your damp skin, but in truth it's just a layer of grime that makes a tepid shower a treat at least a couple of times a day. Like Thailand, but in this case not merely to cool off or get yourself "freshy," as a Thai friend likes to call it.

It was fun, though, in an odd sort of way - and I freely admit to be an odd sort of person.  The three of us going through things laughed a lot, and caught ourselves smiling over and over again when we'd come across something that sparked a happy memory... which is the best sort of memorial service any of us left behind can offer up, I think! The local UPS shop may send a Christmas card this year after processing about relatively weighty 20 cases of memorabilia and family history for shipment home here; I think I doubled their total week's income.

That said, I found myself going back to the folder of "Smiles" photos a day or two ago simply as a pick-me-up now that the dust has settled, figuratively and literally. It's been a little over three months since we've added to the series, so here are a few more from the archives:

The kid above was one at an orphanage I'd visited in support of a charity. It was lunchtime when we arrived there, but before we'd left the boys had put their plates away and were enjoying their free time. For a variety of reasons the girls are in their own area on the grounds. Visitors are a novelty - you can't simply show up; clearance and supervision are wisely required - and farang visitors are even less common. That adds to the novelty factor, and the kids are always ready to mug for the camera.

This guy was working along Beach Road in Pattaya one morning, trying to get tourists to allow him to set them up with activities for the morning or day. Anyone who's done door-to-door sales (or worse, "cold calling" phone sales) can appreciate him relating how when he gives his pitch he gets turned down a hundred times a day. I made it 101, but he smiled for the photo anyway.

Life's a game, but a game can provide a break in daily life, too

It was lunchtime on an unusually hot day in Bangkok when I took the picture of the two men playing checkers on the sidewalk in front of Pantip Plaza.

The one in the athletic t-shirt (known to some here in the U.S. as "wife beaters", but forgive me for starting in on something that would take too much time to explain) saw me standing and watching and actually thought I might be of some assistance. He made a move, but kept his finger on the piece while glancing up for my approval. Not wanting to butt in I just shrugged my shoulders. As he finalized the move and the man in blue took advantage of his mistake the one in the tee looked up again, shrugged his shoulders and I caught the smile.

Students on a field trip at Doi Suthep, near Chiang Mai 

The last image today is of a group of students I met at Doi Suthep, high on the hillside above Chiang Mai. There's no story behind it, but it's one of those pictures that makes me smile, so I'm sharing it with you.

Trip Report, Part 31: The Report Concluded (Finally)

Carved detail at the Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya

When I realize how drawn out this trip report has been I almost feel an apology is due. Part 1 appeared back on May 7th of last year (Bangkok Bound), and finally ends today, just a bit shy of nine months since that first installment.

As mentioned back then I tend to glean something out of most other's trip reports, so hopefully mine will serve a purpose and you'll find some helpful tips/ideas/suggestions that you can refer to, too, even if not all of it applies to you, your travel plans or your own tastes.

The trip report covered my Thailand trip nearly a year ago, and we'd just gotten through a weekend trip into new territory for me, but I figure I'm going to call it there. I'm not entirely done with things from that trip, but the series has gone on long enough, it's getting dark and the floodlights annoy the neighbors so I'm calling it with this wrap-up; a summary, if you will.

The last portions had to do with a long weekend away I'd taken under the wing of an always gracious Thai friend who delights in sharing the "off the beaten path" places with me, and for that I'm always grateful. He has another junket planned for me for my next trip there this year, and I've given up on trying to guess where we'll go and what we'll see.  Since this is Thailand it's comforting to know that the unexpected can - and often does - pop up along the way and sometimes he's surprised, too.

Along the way in the series we covered a lot of ground, figuratively and literally. To save anyone scrolling back that far I hope you'll allow me to refer to some points along the way. The stories you'll reach by many of the links below often contain updates or further information, as well. You are, of course, free to click on the "Trip Reports" link in the right hand column and just plow through them, although since I was still in the kingdom another couple of weeks there may be other posts with that label after today. You've been warned.

Here are some of the things we covered during the 30+ part report:

• An updated installment on Duty free shopping at Taoyuan International Airport
• Transferring in Taipei and using airline lounges
• Arrivals in Bangkok, Immigration and ground transportation
• A visit to emergency at Bangkok Nursing Hospital
• Photos and a report about dinner at Sugar Hut Restaurant & Resort, Pattaya
• An accommodation report about Sunshine Vista Serviced Apartments, Pattaya
• Dinner at Sea Zone on Walking Street in Pattaya
• The tourist spot Million Years Stone Park in Pattaya
• Being a gracious guest and being fair to Thai friends
• A four part bit about the Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya here, here, here and here
• A massage boy's story
• An updated reminder on staying healthy in hotels
• Mingling with the Pathumthani prison chain gang guys in Bangkok
• Another accommodation report about the Seashell Village Resort in Chanthaburi
• A grass-weaving area where some of your souvenirs may have originated
• Two posts about a night festival, raising funds for a new wat (here and here)
• My visit with a former bar boy at his "retirement home"
• Two posts about the large hillside temple Wat Khao Sukim (here and here)
• One post about pushing your comfort zones while traveling
• An observation about being a boorish tourist that I'm told one boor took offense to
• A short piece about Kuk Khi Kai, aka the "bird shit" prison in Chataburi
• Shrimp farming in Chantaburi
• Oyster farming in Chantaburi
• Visiting and walking along Laem Sing Beach
• Walking through Kung Krabaen Bay Nature Preserve and mangrove forest
• Two posts about the Lady Bars on Walking Street (here and here)
• ... and a look at the Tamnanpar Forest Restaurant and Resort on our way back to Bangkok after the long weekend away.

A friend said one time noted how I seem to return home more tired out than when I left on vacation, and they might be right.  This next time I'm hoping for more "down" time: more reading, more naps, more time in the shade beneath an umbrella.  We shall see.

Same Same, But Different! Pt. 14: Inaugurations, Coronations

News photo from the
1950 coronation

Millions in the United States are watching the inauguration coverage for Barack Obama in Washington D.C. as today's post goes out into cyberspace. Hundreds of thousands of people have gathered to witness the ceremony, even if it's mainly for show; the official swearing in was done yesterday on 20 January, per law.

While it's a historic day worthy of celebrating - in my opinion, anyway - it may pale by comparison overall (emotionally, anyway) to the coronation of His Majesty King Bhumibol Adulyadej who has reigned since 9 June 1946, although he wasn't ceremonially crowned King of Thailand until 5 May 1950.

Even now, as you can see in the clip up top, any time His Majesty makes an appearance (unfortunately something of a rare occurrence the past handful of years) there's an enormous crowd. Estimates to the crowds in the clip were in the quarter of a million range.

The inauguration as seen on the web, which was one hell of a lot warmer than standing outside with the masses... although I'd probably have done so, given the chance.

While there were hundreds of thousands at the ceremony today for President Obama (above), the level of deep reverence won't be there to the same degree. Not that the people there aren't there to support and congratulate Obama, but... well, it's same same, but different!

News photo of His Majesty on his birthday this past December

Sleeping, Part 12: Some Random Napping

Aboard a river raft in dry dock near Chiang Mai

I've mentioned what a guilty pleasure naps are for me often enough that even I'm bored with it, but they're a gift the Thai - and those with enough sense in tropical areas - don't ever seem to take for granted. Thai people can (and will) catch 40 winks in some of the most unlikely places.

In the shade along Laem Singh beach, but that's one of the best spots.

It's not like I walk about with radar on looking for them, either, so it's unlikely I've merely run across a disproportionate number of snoozers. Take note yourself if you're in a location with a climate that encourages the behavior and my guess is you'll see your share, too.

I can't imagine how this could be comfortable, but so it goes

Children are easy to catch napping; they seem to be able to sleep at a moment's notice. When their bodies tell them it's time to rest, they simply disconnect and sleep in the first safe spot possible.

Napping on Mama's shoulder at Jatujak Market

For those of you wondering what I'm doing here on a weekend, it's a make-up for missing Thursday and Friday and a chance to say enjoy your weekend. For some of you in the USA it's a three day break, as we observe the late Dr. Martin Luther King's birthday on Monday.

Well, some of us do. I do. Each year I stop to listen to his "I have a dream" speech (at the very least) and perhaps you'd care to do the same - the clip is below. He was far from a perfect man, but he dedicated much of his life to striving for equality - an equality that has helped others who labor under the burden discrimination - and paid the ultimate price for it.

Thai Smiles, Part 54: More Thai Folks At Work

River raft guide near Chiang Mai

Ahh, Friday! The weekend opens its arms with the promise of the guilty embrace of sloth, and although I can't speak for any of you I'm ready for a couple of days of as close to nothing as I can manage. It's been a busy week for me and I haven't felt in top form, so it's been a bit of a challenge. Nothing enough to complain about, mind you; I'm just making mention in acknowledgement for the posts that have been somewhat, shall we say, thin?

While I'm not really what you could call "retired" - I do have daily obligations away from this blog - I get to pick my own hours, am able to work from home and honestly love what I do. That alone ought to be enough, I'd say. It makes me smile, and while doing just that a few minutes ago it seemed apropos to look in the folder of prepared "Smile" images and see what was ready to be shared.  I found a few, and here they are today.

The guy up top had ferried a friend and I down a river near Chiang Mai, and I think he, too, was heading off on a break as I called to him from our drop-off point on the opposite shore to take this picture. Very pleasant fellow, via my interpreting friend.

Monks arriving to bless a new building and business

While walking in the late morning early one trip I turned down one of the nightclub soi to see how construction had gone since my  last visit and saw that the club was now nearly finished. As I peeked inside the line of monks above came along and went inside for the traditional blessing of the new business. Yeah, only the one up front was smiling, but I liked the image.

The young men below had just made a sale to me - something I've found to usually encourage those who wouldn't normally pause to pose do just that. I'd noticed a guy sitting on the sidewalk ahead that looked like he hadn't eaten for a while, so I bought some sticks from these two and then passed them along to the street guy. Win-win and win, the way I see it.

This last image has been sitting and waiting in the folder for some time. There's a story behind it, and I may get to telling it some day. Today isn't that day, but the short version is I'd managed to get the guy to smile for me (despite his grumpy father) by doing a rough impression of a caged monkey - throwing all dignity to the wind.

You're all welcome to join me this weekend and do the barest minimum of activity.

Thai Smiles, Part 53: Some Verticals For A Friday

This interviewee (#257) was really a hoot.

First of all, thank you to those who sent messages to ask if I have been OK this week. The short answer is yes, I have been... just overbooked.

Unlike some sites I think it's really lame to merely flesh out things found out there on the web (i.e. Wikepedia) and call them my own just to fill space, so with the exception of a few posts - such as the Thanksgiving posts - I've written all of them myself, and believe me: that takes time. Come to think of it, that may be part of why the art of writing letters has edged so close to extinction. Our e-World hasn't done meaningful communication many favors. Especially that "tweeting" thing.

A sailor - during a brief visit while we
waited for our buses in Bangkok

But getting back on track, the holiday season is a magnificent one for me, although I tend to go a little overboard with plans, leaving me little time for some of my regular obligations - this being one of them.

Students who called ME over to try out
their limited English. 

That said, posts may brief and sporadic for the next couple of weeks. I'd rather do that than pad the thing out just for the hell of it. I'll be around, though, so check in when you can. Here are a few more examples of Thai Smiles, taken around the kingdom. All vertical shots today, and all but the students workers of one form or another.

See you on Monday.

Filling bags of crushed ice near Chantaburi

I think she was just smiling about the sale,
because she was pretty dour
the rest of the time.

Night Photos, Part 22: A Late Evening Walk In Pattaya

A panoramic shot of the shore along Beach Road in Pattaya, from an angle you don't often see.

Other than the festival night shots at Laem Singh there hasn't been an installment of the Night Photos series since June. Popular consensus is that you've been spared long enough. Well, popular with me, anyway, and since I've been running for close to three years on faith that what I find interesting you'll at least find tolerable here's another batch of long-exposure night shots - all taken around the Beach Road area of Pattaya one evening.

The Oriental Star restaurant glows brightly onto the water of Pattaya Bay

I liked the colors on the water and the blurring of the tiny waves in the top shot. It's a view of Beach Road you don't see photos of very often.

Speaking of Beach Road, there's always a vast assortment of ladies of the night, lady boys, transsexuals  transgender, tran-most-anything along the walkway there, some deeper into the shadows than others.  There were some actually "working" behind me on the beach under cover of darkness. It's one of the few times I've felt compelled to keep a closer eye on my camera and wallet.

It's not even fair to call them "rented admirers" as I've been told it's strictly business along there, for the most part. Nothing against it - work is work - but the World's Oldest Profession can be a trying one, I've learned from those who've made a living at it (on one level or another).

Male, female and in-between prostitutes along Beach Road.

On side streets things can be quieter, but from the beach you need to be alert and sometimes spry to get across Beach Road. Despite traffic signals installed to make it somewhat safer for pedestrians to cross, rumor has it locals can still collect a bounty on tourists. Or so it seems, if you're trying to get across.

Looking North from the curb on Beach Road, Pattaya

And why would you cross the road?  Why, to get to the other side, naturally. Restaurants, beer bars, open air clubs, tailors, opticians, massage storefronts, go go clubs and businesses of all stripes catering to the visitor line beach road and the side streets nearby.

Business lights can give things a warm glow late in the evening

As the weather begins to chill where I am it's easy to daydream of lazy afternoons along the beach and leisurely dinners in small, cozy eateries on the side streets of Thailand.  Not difficult at all to admit I miss it.

Flowers, Part 19: Dendrobium And Other Friday Flowers

Dendrobium cream/violet colored orchids in Chantaburi, Thailand

Being up to my neck in a photo project the past few days I've been too distracted (OK, let's just be honest and say lazy) to sit and write a post of any length, so again today I'm falling back on the floral familiars and posting some images of plant life I've enjoyed seeing while in Thailand. I figure it's only fair for those of you who regularly check in - something I'm most grateful for.

This was one BIG hibiscus bloom - nearly seven inches wide

I don't often check statistics for the blog here, but I was pleasantly surprised to see it's nearly doubled in the three months since I last looked. Again, my thanks to you all. There have been enough questions received via email to warrant some answers here, and I'll get to those next week - promise.

I was told this was the bloom of a Thai fruit, but I don't know which one. Any guesses?

Until then - and unless you've made plans for something different - have a great weekend. See you on Monday.

These pansy-type flowers covered a shrub over two meters high

Thai Smiles, Part 50: More Folks At Work

Not a lot of time for a post today, but here are a few more photos today of Thai at work.

The guy above was at work on a scaffolding near the Surasak BTS station and "posed" for me while I was walking by, on my way to have lunch with some friends at a nearby spot.

 The woman below was smiling, but she had the knit head covering on to protect her from the sun. Seemed a little warm to me for such a cover, but she was by the side of the road selling crab as I was passing by her in Chantaburi province. The crab was delicious, by the way.

The other day you saw workers at Wat Khao Sukim, and this was actually a better picture of them. We were having a laugh, sharing what little we knew of the other's languages.

Finally, here's a man working his lottery ticket stand. He laughed when I held up the ticket I'd just bought from him and my friend informed him that I'd just bought the winning ticket, and I got the shot.

It didn't win, but who knows? Maybe next time.

Sleeping, Part 10: Anytime, Anywhere

Granted, this young man had the sound of the waterfall at Nam Tok Phlio to lull him to sleep, but he was sleeping on rocks.

Many of us have the gift (and it is a gift, make no mistake about that) to be able to just nap briefly during the day and wake up refreshed and ready to go.  I was behind the door when that ability was being handed out, and it's always a roll of the dice for me; never knowing if I'll be renewed or feel somewhat "dulled" and figuratively stumble through the rest of the day.

If you're tuned in to see them you'll notice people snoozing anywhere around the globe, but I'm told I tend to catch more of them than my friends and family do when we're out and about together. Maybe it's just another of my minor quirks - I sport more than a few, I admit - but thankfully this one amuses me, so I don't mind.

The young man sleeping in the parking garage across from my hotel room had company on the next bench, but they both snoozed peacefully between tasks

Not only can you see people sleeping at any time, but in some of the damnedest places, too.

The couple in the photo below were a somewhat unfortunate pair. You've already seen a picture of them sleeping in Lumphini Park in the post about alcohol and drug abuse, and while I don't mean to make light of their situation in any way, I was somewhat surprised at how the young woman managed to sleep on the step - partially over the edge and undoubtedly "over the edge" when sleep finally pulled her under - without rolling back just a tad too far and dropping down a step.

In case anyone is tempted to think otherwise I left money under one of her shoes for these unfortunates to (hopefully) eat with when their fiscal morning dawned.

A reminder to be grateful for our own homes, however humble

The last picture this week is of a young man, sleeping between customers in the family restaurant stand near a BTS station in Bangkok. It was past lunchtime, and evidently a slow time. Looks pretty peaceful, doesn't it?  Maybe I'll roll those dice this afternoon and see how I wake up after an hour or so.  Worth the risk, I'd say.

Thai Smiles, Part 49: Work Is Work

Married owners of a fruit cart "stall" near the Glow hotel

Thursday. It's only Thursday.

When I was doing a fast-paced, high stress job with a publishing company some time back I'd occasionally find myself shutting myself off and hide in my office, head in hand, and wish, wish, wish it was late Friday afternoon; the freedom of the weekend just a bit too far out of reach. All too often, though, the opening scene of "Apocalypse Now" would come to mind. If you've seen the movie you probably remember it: the camera shows some dusty, ratty little room and Martin Sheen's voice-over laments in a helpless and hopeless tone "Saigon. Shit...I'm still only in Saigon."

Raking leaves, clearing tables and sweeping up, this man was preparing the Just One restaurant one morning for the day's business

While there are days I can still get myself wrapped around the axle about things, by and large my work today is a blessing from [insert higher power of your choice here]. Many can't say the same thing, and while I can both sympathize and empathize with them - I've had some jobs far beyond miserable - if I'm asked I offer the same solution: don't do it. Find something else. Push an ice cream cart around your neighborhood, if it makes you happy. You could adjust to a simpler lifestyle - we all could.

Renting sail boards on a beach North of Pattaya

I don't judge anyone by what they do to hold body and soul together financially as long as it doesn't harm or abuse anyone else and has at least some semblance of honor to it.

A couple work l-o-n-g days in an alley - setting up, cooking waffles and cleaning up / breaking down shop afterwards.

You've seen sewer workers, prison workers, construction laborers, massage and more blatant sex trade workers here (although they've never been directly identified as such, out of respect for their privacy) and a lot of other jobs you as readers might recoil from doing, but it's honest work, and I applaud them for being able to do it with a smile. As I've said before, in most cases the Thai feel if there isn't some fun (sanuk) to be found in doing something - why bother? Even begging on the street can be a legitimate option in some cases, and thank goodness for the mercy of those with an extra coin or five.

Using a weighted pipe spade a worker digs hole after hole in the hard, dry earth at a park construction site.

So, here today are some people who do a wide range of work, starting with the couple up top (who  plied me with samples of things I had never tried while selling me fruit to stock my hotel refrigerator with) to the laborers toiling in the hot sun on a day I didn't even care to be outdoors because of the heat.

Although it isn't Labor Day, I tip my hat to them all.

Trip Report, Part 18: "Steak" Lunch Near Rayong

"Steak", on Sukhumvit Highway 3 in Rayong

[This is part 18 of a series that may or may not ever find its way to a proper conclusion. It has to do with my latest trip to Thailand, and the people, places and things I encountered along the way. You can find the rest of the series by clicking here on Trip Reports.]

Chantaburi Province rests between the Gulf of Thailand and the Cambodian border; right above Trat, the Southernmost province on the Eastern "leg" of the country.  The name comes from two Sanskrit words: chandra, meaning moon, and buri, meaning town.

While the island of Koh Phangan may host the grand bacchanalia that is the full moon party I was relieved to learn that this area is the polar opposite, thank goodness. In fact, other than areas more commonly visited by foreigners set on raising hell most places are far more normal; something - as television hostess and former convict Martha Stewart would say - is a good thing.

The daughter, working in the open kitchen of "Steak"

After the detour to see my friend's "new" home we pulled out again onto Highway 3/Sukhumvit (yes, the same Sukhumvit that runs through Bangkok) and continued South. I was looking forward to what promised to be a fairly calm and restful weekend, but I couldn't seem to pry any more details about it out of my friend other than our destination was a small, family-owned resort in the Laem Sing area, near Chantaburi. I was satisfied with that, for the time being, and watched the scenery sail by.

Ride 'em, cowboys...

Once again I was slightly surprised at how much of a load some Thai will stack on the back of a pick-up truck; this time it was sections of gate mesh, piled high above a reasonable level, topped with two workers like cherries on a sundae. Those of you old enough to remember the old ticketing system at Disneyland will understand my saying to my friend "Now THERE'S an 'E' ticket ride!", but he didn't get it.

It swayed like the palms along the roadside, and I breathed a quiet sigh of relief when my friend pulled around and left them behind us.

"Are you hungry?" my friend asked, and I had to admit that I was, even though I'd had a large bowl of rice porridge with pork for breakfast. "I've eaten at this place before," he said, already slowing and pulling to the side of the road "I think you'll like it."  "What's it called?" I asked, and he replied "Steak".  "No, I meant what is the name of it, not what do they serve..." I began, but he looked at me as if I'd asked five times already and said "It's called 'Steak'," but they serve many things."

My lunch entree - pork on rice

As it turned out it was what I'd call a typical Mom and Pop place back home; basic, home style food in a casual setting. The same as you're likely to see in any of ten thousand other locations throughout Thailand.  About the only differentiating feature here were the packaged snacks for sale on each table, and the bottles of their own BBQ sauce that were also available for purchase.

Along with the banana chips and crispy crepe-style rolls there was a domed cup of small dumplings that reminded me of deep-fried gnocci. My friend called them what sounded like "gahree" puffs, but I'm unable to find an online reference for them. Filled with fish, peppers and yellow bean they were just slightly sweet, and the crust that held it all was crisp.  You can see the insides below.

I'd already taken a picture of the daughter while the man behind her cooked our meals, but wanted one of him, too, so she called out "Papa!" and he turned and posed.

It was a good break in a good spot, despite the traffic along Sukhumvit.  Drinks, an appetizer, two entrees and the snacks we purchased to take along with us came to less than 150 baht.

The dining area, thankfully in the shade

Our next official stop was said to be our destination.  I dozed a few minutes along the way, and woke up as we pulled off of the highway.  "Almost there," my friend assured me, and I was ready.