Thunder And Lightning One Morning In Pattaya

As a writer I tread a thin line regarding the legality of "working" in Thailand without a work visa - something I've never felt compelled to do. The details aren't important here, but suffice it to say I don't sit and work as I normally do at home when I'm in the Land of Smiles just to keep my conscience clear.  I'll make notes and record bits to spark my memory once I'm back in the USA, but I don't write, per se.

Nevertheless, that's what I was doing one grey morning in Pattaya, sitting with my back to the sliding patio doors while waiting for a phone call when suddenly there was a stunningly bright FLASH that lit the room, followed immediately by sharp, startlingly loud CRACK from behind me.

The lights in the room blinked off and then on again, and a muffled shriek came from just down the hall outside of my suite.  The flash was lightning, the almost immediate booming sound was the thunder less than a kilometer away and the shriek I learned from a housekeeping woman a little while later was from her, surprised at the jolt in the service elevator she shared with her cart at the moment of "impact".

In all honesty, being more of a city boy than a country boy this was a novelty I didn't know enough to be wary of, so with the smell of ozone beginning to waft into my suite through the open window I picked up my camera and waltzed out onto the balcony, sitting down in my preferred lounge chair and settled in to watch the show.  I wasn't disappointed: there were dozens of bolts hitting nearby.

As a child many of us were told to count "one thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three" after seeing a lightning strike, each count supposedly indicating a mile between us and where the bolt occurred, and I guess my warning ought to have been that I barely got to "one th..." before the blast of thunder arrived a couple of times, but I guess what a Thai friend has told me often enough in the past was true: "it not your time," so here I am to tell the tale.

In addition to the few bolts the camera caught directly, you can see the bright flashes on the side of a couple of buildings below my rooms, and what appear to be video "glitches" are merely electronic interference courtesy of the lightning. I didn't know it could do that to a digital video, but I noted it happening at the time, and any day I learn something new isn't a total waste, I suppose! At least I wasn't hanging onto the stainless steel railing and resisted the temptation to head up to the rooftop garden... even I know not to do that.

The storm passed in about 20 minutes, the streets dried in another hour and it was a marvelous day... complete with a morning light show.

Ouch! Watch Where You're Driving...

While out for an event yesterday I came upon this post-accident scene. I'm not sure how "post-" it was, as there were no police or people in or around the vehicle and everyone nearby was going on with their lives as though it weren't even there.

Deaths by auto accident are half what they were 10 years ago, and that's a good thing. The unfortunate part is that they still happen; nearly 8,000 last year - and that doesn't include the ubiquitous motocy on the roads (and sidwalks).

The whole "mai pen rai" philosophy is fine if your friend is late for lunch, but it has slightly more serious ramifications if you're allowing yourself to be distracted or ignoring your surroundings while piloting a few tons of metal and plastic around, like this driver was doing.

Yes, accidents happen even in the most ideal circumstances, and there's no telling what was going on when this driver hopped the low curb and bent this metal standard, wrapping the front of the truck around it, but some can be avoided.

Many is the time I've seen a taxi driver nod a bit late in the evening as they speed along the streets of Bangkok, and energy drink bottles sometimes litter the floor around the driver's feet. Sleep deprivation, illness and alcohol abuse can all have an effect on a driver's performance. It fits neatly into the file folder of being aware of your surroundings and those who are caring for you - wherever you happen to be.

I looked closely at the truck before deciding to take the pictures to post here. The windshield wasn't broken, there were no signs of blood inside the vehicle and the steering wheel was intact and in shape (although I can't vouch for the driver's ribs).  I figured it wasn't too "tabloid", so here they are.

Drive carefully... and defensively. If you're a rider, you don't have to take the ride from someone who doesn't appear to be capable of doing the job. Sometimes convenience isn't worth the cost.

One Man's Trash Is Another Man's Treasure

A boy on a mission - note the plastic bag - stopped repeatedly along Pattaya Beach one morning.

Although millions of "personals" ads seeking relationships use the tired old phrase "I enjoy long walks along the beach" - with all good intentions, probably - it's a pastime I honestly have long had high on my list of pastimes I enjoy, with or without anyone walking beside me. Not looking for a date here; I'm just stating a fact.

Small shells on the sand of North Pattaya Beach

Unless I'm somewhere that I shouldn't be doing so I tend to pick up interesting shells and items when I'm on these walks, and sometimes even bring one or two home with me to add to a large jar that sits in my home; each a reminder of a pleasant place.

While I was in Hawaii with my family one trip many, many years ago I was collecting shells along a  quiet beach when a local saw me and gave me a look to indicate I was lolo (crazy). I could imagine him saying to himself "I use that junk by the shovelful to level the stepping stones in my garden," but it didn't matter to me. A tiny jar of those shells still sits on my desk today; a memento of a happy time.

On my second trip to Thailand I was staying in a place nearer Banglamung, at the North end of Pattaya Beach (for reference, Walking Street is at the other end) so I had easy access to that lovely few miles of walkway and beach, and took frequent morning leisurely strolls along it.  I'd often walk on the sand, and, amid the junk tossed there by the inconsiderate I'd usually see a variety of shells.

Among the shells one morning were the ones pictured below.  Now, I have no idea what the beaches are like where you are, but along most of the California coast you don't often find much in the way of proper sea shells; bits and pieces, at best.  With the advent of so many beverages being in plastic now you don't even find much sea glass (called that where I live because of it's rounded edges and matte surface, caused by natural sanding while being tossed about for years - or decades).

My trash and treasures. It depends on your point of reference, I suppose. 

Marveling at my good fortune I picked up two bulging pockets-full and brought them back to my hotel room, laying them out on the table of my balcony and thinking what nice additions they'd be to the jar awaiting them back home.  Later that afternoon a Thai friend came to pick me up for an outing, and I proudly showed him my "haul".

He got an odd look on his face (which I later learned was caused by his discretely attempting to hold back a laugh) but he poked at them and then picked out a few, setting them aside.  "These are shells that washed up on the beach," he said, pointing to the few he'd pulled out "and these," he said quietly about the majority "are garbage."  He went on to explain that what I thought were specimens Nature Herself had brought to me as a gift were in fact the leftovers from snacks people had eaten on the beach and lazily tossed aside.

Seeing me smile at my naiivete he burst out laughing, which was a good thing because I think he'd have burst if he hadn't.  Still, the "refuse" shells were new to ME, so I did bring a couple of them home. When I see them I'm reminded of my morning walk... the day I did garbage detail while searching for treasure.

Trip Report, Part 31: The Report Concluded (Finally)

Carved detail at the Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya

When I realize how drawn out this trip report has been I almost feel an apology is due. Part 1 appeared back on May 7th of last year (Bangkok Bound), and finally ends today, just a bit shy of nine months since that first installment.

As mentioned back then I tend to glean something out of most other's trip reports, so hopefully mine will serve a purpose and you'll find some helpful tips/ideas/suggestions that you can refer to, too, even if not all of it applies to you, your travel plans or your own tastes.

The trip report covered my Thailand trip nearly a year ago, and we'd just gotten through a weekend trip into new territory for me, but I figure I'm going to call it there. I'm not entirely done with things from that trip, but the series has gone on long enough, it's getting dark and the floodlights annoy the neighbors so I'm calling it with this wrap-up; a summary, if you will.

The last portions had to do with a long weekend away I'd taken under the wing of an always gracious Thai friend who delights in sharing the "off the beaten path" places with me, and for that I'm always grateful. He has another junket planned for me for my next trip there this year, and I've given up on trying to guess where we'll go and what we'll see.  Since this is Thailand it's comforting to know that the unexpected can - and often does - pop up along the way and sometimes he's surprised, too.

Along the way in the series we covered a lot of ground, figuratively and literally. To save anyone scrolling back that far I hope you'll allow me to refer to some points along the way. The stories you'll reach by many of the links below often contain updates or further information, as well. You are, of course, free to click on the "Trip Reports" link in the right hand column and just plow through them, although since I was still in the kingdom another couple of weeks there may be other posts with that label after today. You've been warned.

Here are some of the things we covered during the 30+ part report:

• An updated installment on Duty free shopping at Taoyuan International Airport
• Transferring in Taipei and using airline lounges
• Arrivals in Bangkok, Immigration and ground transportation
• A visit to emergency at Bangkok Nursing Hospital
• Photos and a report about dinner at Sugar Hut Restaurant & Resort, Pattaya
• An accommodation report about Sunshine Vista Serviced Apartments, Pattaya
• Dinner at Sea Zone on Walking Street in Pattaya
• The tourist spot Million Years Stone Park in Pattaya
• Being a gracious guest and being fair to Thai friends
• A four part bit about the Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya here, here, here and here
• A massage boy's story
• An updated reminder on staying healthy in hotels
• Mingling with the Pathumthani prison chain gang guys in Bangkok
• Another accommodation report about the Seashell Village Resort in Chanthaburi
• A grass-weaving area where some of your souvenirs may have originated
• Two posts about a night festival, raising funds for a new wat (here and here)
• My visit with a former bar boy at his "retirement home"
• Two posts about the large hillside temple Wat Khao Sukim (here and here)
• One post about pushing your comfort zones while traveling
• An observation about being a boorish tourist that I'm told one boor took offense to
• A short piece about Kuk Khi Kai, aka the "bird shit" prison in Chataburi
• Shrimp farming in Chantaburi
• Oyster farming in Chantaburi
• Visiting and walking along Laem Sing Beach
• Walking through Kung Krabaen Bay Nature Preserve and mangrove forest
• Two posts about the Lady Bars on Walking Street (here and here)
• ... and a look at the Tamnanpar Forest Restaurant and Resort on our way back to Bangkok after the long weekend away.

A friend said one time noted how I seem to return home more tired out than when I left on vacation, and they might be right.  This next time I'm hoping for more "down" time: more reading, more naps, more time in the shade beneath an umbrella.  We shall see.

The Ladies And Clubs Of Walking Street, Pt. 2

Visit my club! ...  No, mine! ... No, MINE!

Yesterday's post was quite a step off the ordinary path for me, but so it goes. As a rule, I very rarely find myself in a club where the admired on stage are of the female persuasion - or close to it - as it's not where I'd usually choose to spend an evening, but an open mind helps if you're willing to see something more than the one-knee shuffle so common in the gay clubs.

Hookah bars are becoming
more common in some areas
of Pattaya

Mind you, I don't have anything against straight people as long as they act gay in public, to cite the old joke. No offense to reader Paul who'd asked the "where can I go to meet some ladies on vacation" question, either, but I felt a bit out of my league as far as specifics go.

I suppose from what I've been told that the system works much the same as far as bar fines (off fees), worker drinks and tips in the club, etc. goes in a females-for-hire club as it does in a males-for-hire club, other than I'm told that sometimes the drinks can be a bit cheaper. Supply and demand at work there, most likely; straight clubs outnumber gay ones by at least 10 to 1, I'd guess off the top of my head.  Probably by more. I'd also put a substantial bet on the likelihood that the amount of "tea money" regularly paid to get those in charge to look the other way is higher... wink-wink, nudge nudge.

It's more than a dime a dance, but company is available.

There are many other places to drink, dance, socialize and meet company for a short or longer period in Pattaya, just as there are in Bangkok.  Beach Road is dotted with open-fronted lady bars, as are many of the side streets up towards Second Road and Third Road - all very lively places.

Lucifer's either listing some or bowing a welcome to his disco on Walking Street

Walking street was mentioned as the example because (A) it's a fairly wide open - and perhaps safer - area (B) it's usually full of other tourists, so you're not alone in an unfamiliar place, and (C) because there are plenty of other places to look through, shop or dine if you tire of The Hunt or need time to get up some courage before locking and loading. Those who enjoy a more concentrated selection of ladies and bars might try something along the lines of Soi 8 off of Beach Road, but watch your wallets.

So, until I'm there again and follow through on a promise to myself to gather more stories from the women than the men, this will have to suffice.

Hope you enjoy the pictures... and your weekend.

The Ladies And Clubs Of Walking Street

There. THAT'S where I wanted this photo from yesterday to be.

For the very new among you, Walking Street is a nightly phenomenon similar to the night market area along the streets of Silom Road and Patpong in Bangkok; assembled and jolted to life at dusk but sleeping by day. Not that there aren't plenty of touts along Walking Street in the daytime trying to pull you into a tailor shop, but the street is open to vehicular traffic, too.  At night it's pedestrians only. The main difference is not having to snake through a thousand other visitors between stalls on the sidewalk on Walking Street.

Probably not the "Living Doll"
Cliff Richard sang of, but
there she stood one night.

While Walking Street is only one of many areas in Pattaya to find a grouping of bars, go-go clubs and discos it's the one more tourists are likely to experience. You won't find as many families with small children along the other slightly darker sois where ladyboys and girls nearer their expiration dates wait for someone to off them, for example.

Walking Street is worth a post of its own, and I'll get to that soon. Today's post is for "Paul", who emailed me to ask where he (as a straight man) might go as an introduction to Pattaya Night Life. Paul said he was recently divorced and going through a renewed stretch of sewing his wild oats and was taking a trip with friends to Pattaya as a self-professed sex tourist. Just to be clear: I don't judge anyone who's fair and respectful of other humans, so while I feel he's likely to miss out on 99.5% of the other things Thailand has to offer, it's entirely up to him.

Not being an aficionado of females as romantic partners on any physical level for decades I was somewhat at a loss, but then it came to me: Walking Street!

Yes, I'm aware that a person could be taken - in more ways than one - in most any bar setting, but I figured this way he could at least get a nice dinner and be measured for a suit before being fleeced, drugged or assaulted (just kidding there - we often have some control over the direction of our own fate if we use a modicum of caution and good sense).

Girls tout for clubs along Pattaya Soi 1, not far from Walking Street

A man looking for a Rented Admirer of the female variety won't want for choice along the main stretch of Walking Street, and some of the side sois, also. There are dozens of clubs with some stunningly beautiful women there, some at the opposite end of the spectrum, and most everything between. Some have more between their legs than others, but that takes us into an area I'd rather cover another day.

It's not all "pay for play" - you can merely enjoy the company of a desirable person for an evening of companionship and drinks in the club, too, so don't get the wrong idea here.

We've covered Rented Admirers a couple of other times, and although the genitalia differs, the idea behind it doesn't - so maybe check those articles out here and here. (I don't judge anyone who's fair and respectful of other humans, just so you know).

"Hallloooo, hansam man!" A common siren song you'll hear as you walk along Walking Street. Well, that and "Hello, my friend! Can I interest you in a suit?"

Some clubs are beginning
to cater to those who wish to
rent a falang

That said, here are a few shots of lady and ladyboy clubs along Walking Street. They're not reference points for specific people - they were taken some years ago, and workers tend to change jobs/clubs/professions as often as money and whim dictate (kind of like many places in the West), but it gives you an idea of what some of the clubs look like.

For those of you wondering, the bar fine or off fee to have someone accompany you off premesis for any amount of time varies, just as it does in a male club. I'm advised the fee is between 300-500 baht for the club (depending on the desirability of the worker on one level or another) and a tip of around 1,000 baht to your admirer.

One last thing: for those newbies who don't read the posts about gay clubs here, or who found this by a search, be advised that renting a "freelance" admirer from the street is often riskier than renting from a club.  A club has a reputation and usually at least some standards and reputation. A freelancer in the shadows of Beach Road may have an agenda... and nothing to lose.

Repeating an image to illustrate a warning that bears repeating

Next: a few more Walking Street club photos

A Preview: Lady Bars On Walking Street

Looking back towards the start of Walking Street in Pattaya

My apologies, folks. The unexpected death of a long time friend has thrown me off course here today, so I'll skip the photo essay I was working on about the girly bars along Walking Street and make an effort to get it posted tomorrow.

Christmas In Thailand

This may well be a toss-up between a Christmas post and one from the Same Same, But Different series. Obviously the U.S. doesn't have an exclusive on heavily-decorated shopping malls!

The photo today is of the main tree in front of the Big C Supercenter at Central Plaza Mall (at 78/12 Moo 9 Pattaya Sai 2 Road, Nongprue, Bang Lamung, Chon Buri 20260, for the detail oriented).

This tree was also in a panorama post from an overbooked day's post couple of years ago, but the images were actually taken in 2008 on a rare December trip to the Land of Smiles, when I ought to have been home preparing for the big family gatherings.

I got home barely a week before Christmas itself, and after jet lag did its sometimes brutal number on me I slammed the holidays together in one huge, jumbled rush; a mistake I hope I'm wise enough not to make again - at least as long as I'm blessed with fine family to host for the holidays.

That said, there's a long "to do" list on the table next to me, and I'm off to address that today.

A Follow-up To Yesterday's Party Post

Yesterday I posted my annual appeal for donations to the Pattaya Street Kids Project fund for the Hauy Phong Orphanage Christmas party, but I neglected to include the clip. I had it uploading from another machine in the other room while I was writing it, and just forgot. Sorry. Sometimes I really think I belong in a care home of some sort.  If I live long enough that'll probably happen.

Here are some of the kids at the "slum kids" party I was able to attend one year. Those of you who have children, nieces, nephews or grandchildren know that getting pictures of them while they're at play is, at best, a hit and miss adventure. More like trying to nail Jello to a tree, frankly. It was taken during one of the snack times - a break in the more active festivities.

"Making Seasons Bright" For Others, Too...

The younger kids playing "pass the animal". If you're holding it when the music stops, you're out ... but you get a treat as a consolation prize, anyway.

The eve of the new year is usually a good time to reflect back over the year just ending, and most of us, despite the normal ups and downs of life, have a great deal to be thankful for: a roof over our heads, more often then not too much food to eat, plenty of clothing to wear in any weather, and a long list of other creature comforts.  My wish is that everyone reading this continue to be graced with the same for the rest of their lives. Millions don't share those comforts, as you all know.

I don't like being told what to do with my money, so I'm merely making a suggestion that I'd ask you to consider, as I've done the past couple of years at this time.

Every so often most of us do something to help another human being that (pardon my language here) barely have a pot to piss in.  You know who they are. Sometimes you see them sitting on the sidewalks in the city, but there are millions more you'll never run into, unless we venture WAY outside of our own little bubbles.

Proud parents with their baby boy at the party. Their daughter played games, and everyone got to eat.

Finalists vie for the last spot
playing Musical Chairs

I see them regularly each trip I make to Thailand, and some of these families I've come to know better since I've been sponsoring their children's education. I don't need to go into detail, but if most of us lived as they did there'd be some major bitching and moaning going on, I can assure you of that.

If you love Thailand as I do, I have a charity to suggest that makes a real difference in people's lives there on an on-going basis; one I recommend with a freely admitted bias, since I've had the pleasure of dealing with the people involved directly and seen with my own eyes where the donated funds go, and that's the Pattaya Street Kids Support Project.

To save the comments, I'm aware that there are homeless in my own city (I help here, too), and I know we can't save the world, but we can save little pieces of it.

Here's a simple, painless way you can join in and do something that can brighten someone's life: make a donation to the New Year party that PSKSP funds for the children at the Hauy Phong orphanage. It's a full day of music, special food, games, prizes, gifts and fun for the 350+ children who live on the campus. This year's party is in the planning stages now.

I'm not suggesting you do anything more than skip having one meal out somewhere this month and pass that money along to help this party out.  If you have another charity you've done some research on and are comfortable donating to, more power to you... but do it. What's that, total?  $10US? Seven Euros? Six pounds? Nine AUD?  Next to nothing, whatever it is.

You can't put a price on the happiness shared during a party like this.

The Pattaya Street Kids Project is a registered charity in the United Kingdom, and they maintain a level of complete transparency regarding their accounting. There are plenty of details in a PDF file from the registered charity here.

If you want to, you can make your donation to their fund earmarked for the annual party they also fund for the slum family kids and children under the care of the Mercy Centre in Pattaya. Today's photos are from that party last year, as I wasn't able to attend the Hauy Phong party.

Check the PSKSP site, and please make a donation if you're able to do so.  School sponsorship opportunities are always available, too.

Thanks for thinking about it. I appreciate it.

Just My Two Satang, But This Seemed Silly...

A vertical panorama of some of the trees along Beach Road, as they looked earlier this year. 

One of my favorite walks when I'm in Pattaya has long been the uninterrupted path along Beach Road, upgraded to a paved walkway a few years back. It's somewhere along about a four kilometer  (2.5 mile) walk, depending on where you start and stop.

Earlier in the morning and early evening are my favorite times, but if it isn't too hot later in the morning or afternoon would usually work, too.

Until recently, I hear.

Some time back the city of Pattaya began another of their well-intentioned but inexplicable public work projects: "trimming" the trees along Beach Road.

When I first heard about it I figured they'd just be clearing dead fronds from the palm trees or perhaps some of the lower-hanging branches that can be inconvenient for those who regularly use the walkway, but that wasn't it; they hacked almost all of the shade trees down completely, leaving precious little shade anywhere along the way. Many palms remain, but they don't give you much shelter from the sun.

Photo from a post on the Thai Visa Forums

I haven't seen it yet myself, but I'm not looking forward to it. The best picture I could find to illustrate the decimation was one posted on the Thai Visa forum, a site I thank for use of the image and freely recommend as a reasonably sane place to ask questions, do research for a Thailand trip and discuss all topics Thai.  The link is now in the reference section to the right.

I've heard several opinions as to why they essentially clear-cut the area, and those tended to lean toward security. Evidently the closed circuit television camera (CCTV) viewpoints were being blocked, as was the light from the streetlights along the way, but it would seem to me that it would have been a much better idea to just lower the level of the lights, move the CCTV points or simply trim the branches that blocked the cameras.

It'll take decades for the trees to grow back again, even if clearer heads do prevail in the future.  One of the less pleasant aspects of "Amazing Thailand," I'd say.

Night Photos, Part 23 - Day-Night Spots: Salt & Pepper And Le Bordeaux

Salt & Pepper, on Day-Night 2 in Pattaya

A couple of weeks ago you saw some available light night photos in Part 22 of that series, taken on a walk around Pattaya one evening.  The colors and tones longer exposures tend to produce interest me, and as unpredictable as the technology can be it's often a surprise to see what pops up in the viewfinder after the exposure. Sometimes when I think it's unlikely I'd get anything out of the effort (mainly due to my unsteady hand holding the camera) the better images appear. Go figure.

The Day-Night area is a quieter spot at night than some in the vicinity, and there are several reasonably-priced (and nice) places to stay - such as Baan Dok Mai, a place we've looked at a couple of times already. It's on Day-Night 3. I've also had the Mosaik apartments recommended, but can't speak of them from personal experience other than seeing the outsides. They're above both of the restaurants mentioned today.

The top panorama is three images of the Salt and Pepper restaurant, stitched together. Salt and Pepper is a casual, homey spot owned for many years by a Pakistani man named Mr. Zee and his Thai wife, who seem to be there from dawn to dark. As a side note I understand she lost a sister and a couple of nieces in the same auto accident in the first part of October, which is quite sad. I must remember to pass along condolences when I'm there next trip.

A friend had suggested lunch there a few years ago, and that was my first visit. They make a pretty darned good cheeseburger and  other Western items, but their basic Thai food is very good, too, and that's what I've usually had there at dinner time. It's also a fine place to sit and have a cool one in the afternoon and watch the world going by. Inexpensive, as well.

Le Bordeaux restaurant, Day-Night Soi 2, Pattaya

The picture above of Le Bordeaux is two images, blended together, and I only have comments from people I know about the quality and pricing of the place... and I'm told it's nice. Le Bordeaux is a French-style restaurant, also on Day-Night 2, right near Salt and Pepper. If you can read French you can click on their name and open their web site.  It's a little "Hi-so" for my usual travels there, but I may try it next trip. If you've got two satang to add about either place, feel free to leave a comment.

Night Photos, Part 22: A Late Evening Walk In Pattaya

A panoramic shot of the shore along Beach Road in Pattaya, from an angle you don't often see.

Other than the festival night shots at Laem Singh there hasn't been an installment of the Night Photos series since June. Popular consensus is that you've been spared long enough. Well, popular with me, anyway, and since I've been running for close to three years on faith that what I find interesting you'll at least find tolerable here's another batch of long-exposure night shots - all taken around the Beach Road area of Pattaya one evening.

The Oriental Star restaurant glows brightly onto the water of Pattaya Bay

I liked the colors on the water and the blurring of the tiny waves in the top shot. It's a view of Beach Road you don't see photos of very often.

Speaking of Beach Road, there's always a vast assortment of ladies of the night, lady boys, transsexuals  transgender, tran-most-anything along the walkway there, some deeper into the shadows than others.  There were some actually "working" behind me on the beach under cover of darkness. It's one of the few times I've felt compelled to keep a closer eye on my camera and wallet.

It's not even fair to call them "rented admirers" as I've been told it's strictly business along there, for the most part. Nothing against it - work is work - but the World's Oldest Profession can be a trying one, I've learned from those who've made a living at it (on one level or another).

Male, female and in-between prostitutes along Beach Road.

On side streets things can be quieter, but from the beach you need to be alert and sometimes spry to get across Beach Road. Despite traffic signals installed to make it somewhat safer for pedestrians to cross, rumor has it locals can still collect a bounty on tourists. Or so it seems, if you're trying to get across.

Looking North from the curb on Beach Road, Pattaya

And why would you cross the road?  Why, to get to the other side, naturally. Restaurants, beer bars, open air clubs, tailors, opticians, massage storefronts, go go clubs and businesses of all stripes catering to the visitor line beach road and the side streets nearby.

Business lights can give things a warm glow late in the evening

As the weather begins to chill where I am it's easy to daydream of lazy afternoons along the beach and leisurely dinners in small, cozy eateries on the side streets of Thailand.  Not difficult at all to admit I miss it.

On Avoiding Being "The Ugly American"

The Three "Stoolges" on Walking Street, Pattaya

For the sake of argument, let's agree that we're not dealing with The Ugly American, the 1958 novel by William Lederer and Eugene Burdick and sticking with the common usage: a pejorative term for a "stereotypical offensive American: a loud, boorish, nationalistic American, especially one traveling abroad, who is regarded as conforming to a stereotype that gives Americans a bad reputation" (Encarta dictionary).

It's unfortunate the term seems to focus mostly on those of us in the USA, which in and of itself is exclusionary enough - after all, there are plenty of other countries in North and South America that contain unpleasant examples of humanity - but I suppose it's all part of it, isn't it?  We're the real Americans, damn it. Now, if the behavior were limited to only we from the US that'd be a different story, but the label of Ugly American fits people across the wide spectrum of races, countries and cultures. You may have an example or two that pop to your mind... I certainly do.

It's reasonably important to remember that we - like it or not - are all ambassadors of a sort, and should behave accordingly. If you read up on your planned destination(s) it's not difficult to learn enough about the local customs and traditions to be a gracious guest.

Two obvious examples most readers here should know about visiting Thailand: it's always wise to be respectful of the royal family, and climbing up onto a statue of the Buddha for a snapshot - or any similar disrespectful actions like it - are likely to get you into trouble, but opening your own personal Pandora's box of less-desirable facets of yourself can, too.

Regardless of how pointedly acerbic your own "humor" may seem be to you or those who understand your "style" at home, sarcasm rarely translates well into another language (or culture). At best, you'll merely confuse the person you're dealing with; at worst you'll come across as an asshole and lose face, which is probably the more likely of the two possibilities, since many who think their wit isn't understood just compound the social gaffe by pushing it further.

The three men sitting on stools at a beer bar (ladies as Rented Admirers optional) are enough of an illustration, I felt, so there's the image.  The one on the far left was being pleasant while interacting with the girls at the club, and the one in the middle appeared to be doing the same.

The Hulk on the right, however, appeared at the time to be a force I'd prefer not to deal with.  He'd been lurching up and down Walking Street a couple of times while I was there with a friend, and we (and others) gave him a wide and clear berth.  Swaying back and forth he actually growled as he moved along. At first I'd thought he might have just been burping, but that wasn't the case.

My Thai friend leaned in towards me and gave me his opinion on where this walking refrigerator may have been visiting from, and he may have been right - but I just said "Ugly American", without thinking. Then I had to explain it, and this time it didn't take much of an effort to get the meaning across to him.

He told a story about seeing one of millions of balding, pot-bellied later-middle-aged male farang haggling with a vendor at the JJ  weekend market a few months before. Haggling is expected by many vendors; a good-natured (if sometimes slightly aggressive) but respectful bantering back and forth in an attempt to reach a "win-win" agreement on the price of an item. This particular episode had begun to escalate beyond banter, and my friend stopped at a safe distance to watch them.

The short version is that the farang actually began to holler about "being an American" and not being willing to be "ripped off by some bandit". When the vendor tried to smile it off and turn away, the farang grabbed his arm to turn him back face-to-face and lunged at the Thai. Vendors and others nearby joined in and gave the Ugly American what he had coming to him, to my way of thinking.

The people who over-indulge in public to the point of losing control of their manners and/or civility can be the worst of it, but the man at JJ was merely a pig-headed fool of a bully, pure and simple.  I'd wager we all run into similar folks on a daily basis. There's rarely an explanation as to why they're such mean-spirited creatures (bad childhood, inferiority complex the size of a Buick, monthly cramps, small penis, inability to hold a civil relationship together... who knows?) but they're there, meaning here and there, anywhere around the globe; being miserable and freely willing to visit their misery on anyone within reach, figuratively or literally.

Readers by now are well aware I'm not one who studiously follows dogma of any stripe, but there are some basic rules of life that I subscribe to, and one of those is what many would call the Golden Rule: do unto others as you would have others do unto you.  That covers nearly all social situations, and if you don't allow it to tarnish while traveling it'll serve you well.

"Comfort Food" At Le Cafe Royale

The comfortable and welcoming terrace at Le Cafe Royale

As much as those of you reading this may love to visit Thailand, there usually comes a day on most any vacation where you miss a dish from home.  I suppose that's far too specific for most of you, come to think of it; no matter where on the planet I go I usually find myself missing something from home, but some form of comfort food often cures whatever glimmer of (usually very brief) homesickness that hits.

Most of us have an item or two of comfort food on our personal list, but I'm not going to open a vein about my own guilty culinary pleasures because they're so junky they're embarrassing. Let's stick with a more gentle example and use a decent hamburger as an example, shall we?

A hamburger and fries of a reasonable proportion. Pigging out in the tropics can make many of us more sloth-like than usual.

The burger today was one of several I've enjoyed at Le Cafe Royale on Pattayaland Soi 3, two or three minute's walk off of Second Road, in the heart of the Boyztown area.

During the daytime their terrace seating area is a really nice spot to take a break and still have the opportunity to people watch while the other eateries, clubs and establishments go about the daily business of  re-stocking and preparing for the evening, when most of the rest of the soi comes to life.

The expression in English is "that's a tall drink of cool water," and I've thought of that many a time while relaxing on the terrace there, enjoying a chat with a waiter or two and basking in the cool breeze of multiple overhead fans.

As close as I can remember, Le Cafe Royale has been there since it opened in 1992 as part of a hotel of 20 rooms, which would make this its 20th anniversary.

Mac (on the left) and Tui (on the right) in 2006

This last visit I again had Mac waiting on me, and was somewhat surprised to hear him say he'd been there for 20 years.  To me that says something about the quality of an operation overall, even though a few things, including bosses, have changed there over the years (rest in peace, Ian). Nevertheless, Mac continues to age well and is just as pleasant today as when I first met him years ago.

Mac again - this time in 2012

A friend travelling with me two years ago wasn't staying there but had visited Le Care Royale one afternoon with me, so I wasn't all that surprised when he'd called one morning to tell me he was heading out to have breakfast there, and asking if I would care to join him. I'd already eaten, but joined him for coffee while he had the full breakfast (below) that he said was quite good; hot, prepared just as he'd asked and more than filling.  

My friend's breakfast at Le Cafe Royale

The Cafe, which is open 24 hours a day, serves a reasonably wide range of dishes that you can see on their website, along with information about rooms for rent:
http://www.caferoyale-pattaya.com/index.php

While there are other places to eat during the daylight hours in the immediate vicinity, this is my pick.  If you have a favorite you'd like to share, please do so!

Jomtien Beach Breakfast

Breakfast off to a fine start at The Bondi, Jomtien

If you want to help someone start building a resentment towards you, I can't think of a much better way than to mess with their breakfast. People can be testy other parts of the day, too, but mornings are often the worst. Someone I know well had a number of years in the restaurant business; primarily places that did a brisk business during the morning hours, meaning real-time and people's fiscal "mornings".

I've been told that no matter how you attempt to serve eggs as ordered you're liable to be called down for not preparing them "properly" - meaning as the customer does at home.  You're likely to hear similar comments for bacon (cooked but pliable vs crispy), toast (light vs dark and/or hot vs cool) and, indeed, coffee (weaker vs stronger). While there's really no pleasing some people it's really more on the traveler, I'd say: going with the flow while in another country is often the easier, softer way. Like we've covered a number of times here, losing it with a Thai person puts you in the loser's spot, minus some points from your "face" tally.  I've also heard reliable stories of what can happen to food that's sent back and then returned to your table. Enough on that, though.


That said, I delight in a well-prepared and -stocked buffet or breakfast place, and the ambiance buys a place a lot of slack with me. Put me at a walkway-side table at The Bondi with a view of the beach and start me off with something like that pictured up top and I figure they could serve me a mediocre meal and I'd still be pleased, but maybe that's just me.  


Just so no one gets the wrong idea, I have always enjoyed the breakfasts I've had at The Bondi. The beverages above were put in front of me one morning while I perused the news, not really caring what was going on anywhere but in this restful spot. From there it's just steps to the sand.

Just a minute's walk from there is Tui's place, which has already been covered here.  It also has a delightful view, good food and good service. If you're staying in Jomtien Complex you'd do well having breakfast at the Poseidon.  I haven't eaten there for a year or so, though, and things can change. They used to have a buffet breakfast - not sure if it's there now.

For you more seasoned visitors: do you have any places in the Jomtien beach area you enjoy? We'll cover others in Pattaya proper another time, but while I was daydreaming and having my coffee (perfectly prepared, naturally - ha!) I thought of the cool morning breeze of the quiet beach and thought I'd bring the subject up.

Please leave a comment or send me an email (under The Standard Legalese in the right-hand column) if there's someplace you'd like to recommend.

Trip Report, Pt. 15: A Massage Boy's Story

In the interest of privacy this is not where Nat works. I met him in Pattaya. Center Point is a shop in Bangkok.

Nat was deep in thought as I approached the massage shop. Rather than calling out the familiar welcome to passers-by he was adding up what monies he'd need to finish out his current "fiscal" month. There was enough for his portion of the shared room rent and food, but there wasn't a whole lot of extra left over past that.

As many of us do (or have done in the past) he'd had a few too many the previous night and was paying a minor price for it today. As it stood, it was very late in the evening and his work day would be ending soon. He was thankful for that - and the promise of something to eat before heading back to the room to sleep. He would be very happy to see Bee when he arrived on his motocy to give him a ride home after finishing his shift delivering food.

Still, when he noticed a pair of feet stopped in front of the shop - mine - he looked up and flashed his best smile.  "Massage?" he asked, hopefully. "That's what I'm looking for," I replied "but that's all, really." I'd heard nice things about the quality of the massage at this place and figured we could cover the specifics later. I was on my way back to my room, and had decided that a decent massage would be the best nightcap for the evening.

There were three other guys sitting out front; one staring off down the street, deep in thought, and two others staring intently at the small screens on their cell phones; the light from the displays eerily illuminating their faces as they frowned in concentration. Their boredom looked to be approaching the near-paralysis stage.

Since it's always somewhat of a toss of the dice (a crap shoot, if you will) with massage guys and their level of actual massage training and skill I figured Nat would be the one.  At least he'd acknowledged my existence.

"Do you speak any English?" I asked, hope against hope. "Nit noy (a little bit)," he answered so I asked "how many months have you done massage?" "Not month. Four year," came the reply, and that settled the deal. I figured he wouldn't have lasted that long if he was a complete klutz at it, so I said "OK, you win the lottery".  He looked puzzled, but smiled when he saw me do the "after you" motion toward the door with a sweep of my hand.

I showered and met Nat back at the room where I'd left my things, lay my weary self down where he indicated and started taking some deep breaths to relax. The window was open near my head, and I could hear the sounds from the street below; the rise and fall of motor scooter engines, the clattering of street carts, the talk and laughter of people as they went about their lives.

To be polite, I asked where in Thailand he was from, and that started him talking. More than I wanted, actually; this wasn't work time for me, but hey - a story is a story. I tried to make mental notes while trying to relax; not something I do with much skill, but here's what I remember...

Nat was in his later 20s, and had been born into a farming family who had staked their claim near Suphanburi generations before. The oldest of four children, he was the one who was leaned on for support more than the others. The rainy season flooding in 2011 hadn't helped the family finances any, and now that he was fairly recently back to work he had legitimate money worries. With a sister's medical bills still an ongoing burden to his mother and father back home upcountry he was forlorn that there wasn't anything to send home to help them. 


Beginning massage in Bangkok he'd left the business after a few years to work in a shop selling bags near the two Baiyoke towers, figuring that although the money wasn't as good it was consistent, at least.


Nat had realized early on that he was gay, but hadn't met anyone special until he was away from the countryside and into Bangkok. It was during this stretch of time he was selling bags that he met someone and entered into his first relationship. His boyfriend was a "lady boy" of one stripe or another; I didn't understand what Nat was trying to say more than that. After a single tumultuous, stormy month Nat ended the relationship and went back to Suphanburi to visit the family and lick his wounds.


He was back with his family for a visit when a friend called him to say he'd bought a massage shop in Pattaya with the funding from a farang friend, and would Nat like to come join in the operation to try his hand at massage again, so to speak.  Finances being somewhat dire at the time, Nat agreed. Initially he'd done well, and still had his group of regulars who asked for him, but things had slowed down dramatically in the area overall.


Nat said I was his third customer in five days, and nobody in the shop was making much money. Here it was, close to closing, and I was both the first and last customer for the shop that day.  Knowing that it was really no wonder the guys were rather listless out front.


Maybe Nat figured he'd talked enough, I don't know, but he stopped and was quiet for a few minutes - and I didn't ask him any more questions.  "You OK?" he asked, and I said "Yes, fine". He definitely knew his massage moves, and although I got a full hour of treatment the time seemed to fly by.  Soon I was showered again and back gathering my things; Nat waiting in the hallway already dressed in his street clothes when I came out of the small room.

I tipped him as if he'd done the extras many expect, and he seemed pleased with this gratuity, giving me a polite wai and leading me back downstairs through the now closed shop. The guy at the counter was there to collect the massage fee, but everything else from outside was now inside, and the lights were off, save the one over the reception counter.

"Do you want to have something to eat?" I asked Nat. "No, friend me waiting," he said, pointing to Bee, sitting in front of the shop on his motocy. I patted him on the shoulder firmly, telling him "good massage!" and he smiled.  "Thank you," he said, holding the door open for me. "See me again."  I hope I do.

Trip Report, Part 14C: Sanctuary Woodworkers

Workers begin the transformation, following the drawn template

[This is part 14C of a series that may or may not ever find its way to a proper conclusion. It has to do with my latest trip to Thailand, and the people, places and things I encountered along the way. You can find the rest of the series by clicking here on Trip Reports.]


OK, one last look at the craftsmanship involved in constructing the Sanctuary of Truth - but these images were taken in the workshop where most of the actual artistry takes place; a community effort under the direction of a handful of artisans who direct the more time-consuming process of the actual carving itself.

It's undoubtedly tedious work, but nevertheless a necessary investment of time and effort, and still a part of the magic of turning a block of wood into a work of art. The finer points are completed by those with a more accomplished skill set, naturally.

Note the wooden "peg" that will hold the post in place. No metal is used.

In the interest of time, materials and effort portions are repaired, rather than replaced

As you saw at the end of yesterday's post, part of the detailing is done inside the structure itself, but the extensive workshop had hundreds of pieces in process beneath it's roof.  The walls are open-sided - as is the main sanctuary itself - but it's warm inside, and fans were running to keep a breeze on the workers.

The workshop areas are set off the regular visitor's path, and there aren't any signs to welcome tourists inside - undoubtedly a safety issue more than anything else - but when my friend asked if we might come in and take some pictures to post here we were welcomed as if nobody else had shown them any interest in a year.  I think they were pleased to be recognized, myself.

Being the uncommon visitors we were the source of some interest, but I didn't interrupt their work to ask people to pose, but I'd asked my friend how to say "nice work!" to compliment those who did look up, and since I had the camera out at the ready I did get one shot of some of the boys smiling. 


A nice addition to the day's batch, I thought.