Cookies - And Christmas In Pattayaland, Soi 3

A night short of Christmas lights on a tree in Pattayaland, Soi 3

Because I have an extensive family - some blood relations and a lot of others I've grown close to over the years - I tend to do a lot of baking during the Christmas holidays. This year is no different, and there are somewhere between 400 and 500 finished and waiting to distribute over the next week or so.

In the interest of keeping them fresh I hold most of them in the freezer over the week or so of days I'm baking them. Today and tomorrow will be decorating days, and then I can finish putting the finishing touches on things before the holidays themselves. Some of the local family will join in today an lend a hand spreading icing and sprinkling colored sugar decor on as many as I can get them to do, and then the rest will be done by yours truly later today.

I suspect that the X-Box Santa dropped off early will curtail some of the help from the younger ones today, but then icing never could hold a candle to a grenade launcher and sporting games. Ah, well... it's Christmas.

Back tomorrow.

Suntans: More Than "Black" And White

A farang on the beach, basted and broiling.

Sitting under an umbrella on the beach in Thailand some months ago I watched  an older man in a Speedo (something that probably ought to be a felony in and of itself) getting a foot massage from a younger Thai man.  Well, if truth be known I was actually observing the younger man more than the older one, but that was primarily to see if I could get a hook on the relationship between the two. The farang appeared to be in his late sixties, the Thai in his mid-twenties.

They seemed to know each other somehow, but since I resisted the opportunity to eavesdrop I couldn't do more than speculate.  From the disinterested look on the young man's face my guess is that the music coming through my ear buds trumped what little they were talking about, anyway.  He looked longingly at the shade from the umbrellas all around him as he toiled away in the direct sun of mid-day.

His customer seemed to know the people who ran the chair concession where he'd rented his lounge recliner for the day, and they apparently recognized or knew him, too. At least, one would hope they knew each other as he'd reach out and grab at any of them who didn't give him a wide enough berth to be more than an arm's reach away. Most of it seemed to be in good fun, but some of them either made faces or rolled their eyes as they passed out of his range of view.

When the massage was done the man handed his masseur a bottle of tanning oil, motioning for the kid to oil him up for his next spin at Carcinoma Roulette.  I couldn't help but notice that it didn't so much resemble an oiling up as it did a basting; the man was already darker than most roasted fowl you'd see served at a family gathering.   "At least his family could save burial expenses and just have him made into an ottoman after he's gone," I thought to myself  "He's pretty close to leather now."  If he were a third his size he probably have passed for a kahlua pig at a Hawaiian luau. Still, to each their own.

Having been born with enough of a beautiful tone an acquaintance stays in the shade at the beach

I've never quite understood the obsession with sunbathing, myself.  Part of that probably comes from my inability to do anything myself other than sunburn and peel time and again, but if you look that up it's really nothing more than damaging your DNA and your skin attempting to repair the damage by shedding itself.  I don't try to emulate the pasty look of the "Goth" youth of today, but I respect the power of the sun - especially in the tropics. To put it another way: SPF-50 is my friend.

Now, before you Snow Birds who migrate to sunnier climes from places where the weather takes a colder turn from oh, say, October through March get upset, let me say I fully understand not wishing to live in a country that's somewhat like a blast freezer for a quarter of the year.

A lack of sunshine has been proven to have detrimental effects on humans, too - both mental and physical.  Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD) is a legitimate condition - I know someone who deals with it each year. When I was in Seattle a month ago I saw a surprisingly large selection of light fixtures and lamps designed to provide artificial sun for both that and to help adjust people's internal circadian clocks. However, 20 minutes beneath artificial sun per day is (pardon the pun) light years away from day after day of sunbathing.

Many Asian cultures view darker skin as being less desirable than lighter skin, and folks go to great pains to avoid the sun.  Walk through the personal grooming aisle where the creams and lotions are on display the next time you're in a store in Thailand - or Japan, or China, or Vietnam - and you're going to see more skin-lightening products than you can shake a stick at.  If a Thai (male or female) is to wear any make-up on their face you're not going to see them using anything  that would darken their skin.

You're also likely to see a similar phenomenon in many Latin America countries, too.  One dear friend, born in the Southern part of Mexico has the most gorgeous dark skin of anyone I know, but when he was a child and the family was invited to, say, a wedding, he was left behind at home because he was too moreno (dark) and they were ashamed of him.  Go figure.

A handful of years back I read on one forum or another an anecdote from a farang man who'd left his boyfriend in Bangkok while he went for the first time to some beach resort for a week, staying stretched out in the sun most days; getting a deep tan he was rather pleased with.  Thinking "now I'm the grandest tiger in the jungle" while coming back to Bangkok he was a bit shocked when his boyfriend greeted him with "Why you do this?  Now you black... I ashamed you!"  It took him a couple of minutes to realize that to make himself darker (many Thai would say "black" when they mean tanned or darker) seemed like a completely irrational act to most Thai.

I suppose that for aesthetic reasons it's merely a matter of cultural preference, but for health reasons it makes more sense to avoid being one of the walking lobsters you're likely to run across at the Grand Palace along about three o'clock in the afternoon.  Sunscreens are available so you don't need to bring a bottle or tube with you, but if you have a specific brand you prefer just seal it in a bag to avoid a leak and bring it along.

And - more importantly - use it. It beats having a doctor carving bits off of you in another decade.  Just my two satang on it.

Strolling Into The Tawan Muscle Boy Club

There was going to be a little more of a story to go with the above clip today, but life threw a curve ball and it didn't happen, sorry to say. Face facts: most of those who'll be interested in seeing it couldn't care less about the story, anyway.

The gist of it had to do with trying to get back to my room after picking up some lantern puzzles at a sidewalk stall of sorts on Suriwongse Road (that January 24, 2011 story is HERE).  I'd cut down the side soi where Tawan and the Mango Tree restaurant are to get myself back to Silom and the Sala Daeng BTS and was drawn into the club by the door tout.

I'd been taking a video to show the soi anyway, and evidently the tout didn't care that the red light was obviously on because he looked directly at it and still called me in. There's not much to the clip since I shut the camera off after I sat down. I rarely visit the club unless I'm taking a newbie there, but I sat for a drink and then went on my way.

Thai Smiles, Part 43: Hauy Phong Orphanage Boys

Talking about the upcoming party with some of the boys at Hauy Phong

A few days ago I made a pitch for donations to the Pattaya Street Kids Project's holiday party at the Hauy Phong Children's Home.

Some of the approximately 400 boys (and girls, on the other side of the road) who would appreciate your help

Although the party is coming up soon there's still time to make a donation. For the relatively insignificant sum of $4US / 2.5GBP / 120 Baht you can defray the cost of one child for this yearly event. I don't smoke and I don't know what they cost where you live, but that's less than a pack of cigarettes here in the US - and it's a far better use of the cash.  These are children who haven't much more than the clothes on their backs, and they really put their hearts into this day-long event.

Having lunch at Hauy Phong

You can make donations in a number of ways (see their site HERE) but I've always found PayPal to be the easiest.

The photos today were taken when I was last at the home a couple of days before one of these parties. I just noticed today that while I was taking the photo below of the boy sweeping up leaves Don was taking a photo of two boys who - as of today - are smiling out at you on the PSKSP home page. Just an interesting coincidence I thought worth pointing out.

Give a thought to donating, folks.  Note on your donation that you'd like the money to go to the Hauy Phong holiday party, and that's where it will go.  100% of it.

A boy "rakes" leaves while Don takes a photo of two others

Night BBQ In Udonthani Clip

Some of you may have read portions of the 28-part series "Isaan Oddysey" that ran from February 22nd through May 19th of this year, when I'd hired a friend with his own guide business to accompany me for a week-long road trip up through Isaan to Udonthani.

One evening in Udonthani we ended up at a large outdoor BBQ place, the name of which I didn't note and have long since forgotten. It was across the road from the runways at the airport there, although that's not much of a selling point, I suppose. If you want to read that piece of the saga and see photos from that night, the link to it is here. I really enjoyed it, despite the occasional noise from overhead.

I took a few video clips that evening, and here's one of them showing some of the area where you'd select your ingredients to cook at your table, and some of the band that played a generous amount of more traditional Isaan music in addition to this song. If you follow it to YouTube you can see it in HD, if you have the web speed for that.

As the evening progressed and the music became more "Isaan-centric" more and more of the locals got up to dance, and the irresistible rhythm was impossible for many in the crowd to resist. It was wonderful.

These times out among the locals are some of my fondest recollections of my Thailand visits, and I encourage you to try experiencing them yourself when you go - or when you're there again.

It's well worth the time.

REAL Holiday Spirit(s)

If anyone up on the roof of the liquor store needs a little something to keep warm, it's just below them.

In 1958 my brother came home with a 45RPM of Stan Freberg's "Green Chri$tma$", a satirical and gently cynical poke at the commercial maelstrom that is the holiday season. In my opinion, it's never been equaled:



Now, I'm a lover of novelty records; I have cases of vinyl to attest to it, but Freberg's nearly seven minute saga still reigns supreme when it come to Christmas records for me. The public loved it, and the radio stations took the heat from Coke, Viceroy cigarettes and the other products that were speared.

The religious story of Christmas is still a central point of the holidays for many followers of the Christian faith around the globe, but once it became a means of making money l-o-n-g ago, all bets were off as far as the world of commerce was concerned.  If I were a deeply religious person that might offend me, but I'm not, so it doesn't. The whole idea of "peace on earth, good will towards men" is a sound one that I do my best to honor, but it shouldn't be restricted to the month of December, in my opinion.

This isn't intended to be a rant of any kind, but I thought I'd share Freberg's superb holiday cheer with you today.  As I said, there are many other Christmas novelty recordings; Freberg himself tried a follow up - "Christmas Dragnet" - which has its moments, but "Green Chri$tma$" still reigns supreme, and is just as relevant today as it was 53 years ago.

"Christmas Dragnet" is below.  I hope you enjoy both of them.

Working The Family Business

A boy helps his father glaze mortars for their shop

My guess is some of you grew up in a family that ran a business of one sort or another, as I did.  While it's not always an ideal situation it's often a good way to learn some healthy work habits. My family's business gave us all an opportunity to learn the meaning of dedication and endurance in addition to hard work, and while we didn't all go on to own successful businesses of our own later in life, some of us did; and that early experience has been a leg up in the business world we all appreciated later on, even if not right at the time!

Girl packaging Q-Tips for her family to sell

My best friend grew up picking coffee on the family farm in the South Pacific, as did his parents - and grandparents.  The difference was that earlier generations tended to stick close to home (my friend's mother lives five miles from the house she was born in) and the more current ones tend to strike out on their own for other places and other careers.  Today 90% of the high school seniors from that area leave their home island and head off to college or work elsewhere, as my friend did.

While many of the families I've met outside of the cities in Thailand - especially the farmers - are happy to have their children stay and help plant, harvest and keep the place going, it's seemed that traditions are being altered, as they often will be in any developing culture or country, and education and other jobs away from home are becoming less of an exception. One friend there grew up with his parents selling food from a cart near a factory, and now he's working a lucrative job in the electronics field.

Those with a healthy work ethic can be seen getting an education while still being an active part of the family business, regardless of what that is.  While a farming family may not have the income to pay for advanced schooling past the basic government education, where there's a will there's often a way.  One farmer's son I've known many years found a way to take out student loans and put himself through school, and now has a job that now only allows him more of the life he'd dreamed of but also the opportunity to help his family during slim times.  That family bond is usually strong in Thailand, and I think that's a good thing.

Partners working in their motorcycle repair shop

We're deliberately leaving the Fast Money workers out of the mix today, and just taking a look at a few regular folks - the people you may walk by and not notice while out and about; the everyday Joes and Janes.  I have a great deal of admiration for these folks, especially those bonded by blood or friendship who can make a go of things.  There, as here, I tend to be more inclined to pay a little more to help support a family establishment than a corporate one, be that a food cart, a cobbler or seamstress on the sidewalk or some other small, hole-in-the-wall business.

It reminds me of where I came from, and it makes me feel good to think that I might be helping someone rather like myself out.  It seems to work best if we pass it on.

A man working in an electronics repair shop in Pattaya

Taking The Day Off

My apologies to the regulars - I'm grossly overbooked for the next few days.

This guy's in charge until I'm back on Monday.

Helping Some Kids Have A Happier Holiday

PSKSP founder Don and some of the Hauy Phong residents. After being involved with the home for so long the kids know him.

Located about 40Km outside of Pattaya, the Hauy Phong Children's Home is home to somewhere around 400 boys and girls between 4 and 17 years of age. Some are orphans by the classic definition, some are runaways and some are children who've been rescued from bad family situations, from life on the streets, or from the horrific world of sex trafficking. There are also cases of their families simply not being able to keep them properly. Originally a correctional facility of sorts it's now a part of Thailand's Department for the Prevention of Human Trafficking.

Here they're gathered together in a safe place, protected by the watchful eyes of an attentive and caring staff and able to have a childhood free of the unfortunate experiences they endured before arriving here. The boys live on one side of the highway that divides the extensive grounds, and the girls live on the other. Being a government organization they're not affiliated with any outside religious organization, so these children are left to live their lives as Buddhist - as over 90% of the country does. Personally I like that.

One of the dormitory buildings - six or seven, I believe - at Hauy Phong

The afternoon these photos were taken I'd gone along with Don, the founder of the Pattaya Street Kids Project to sit on the sidelines and observe while the folks who were involved wrapped up plans for the upcoming 2011 Holiday Party - one of the biggest events of the year for these kids. I'll post again about the home, but today it's all about brightening the kid's lives for this one special day.

Some of the "clean up" crew stopped for pictures before we left.

When we rolled in there were kids bustling about everywhere around the grounds. Some of them were having lunch, some were finished and were back on task, sweeping up leaves throughout the grounds in preparation for both the party and a visit by some local monks. As handy as everyday Thai brooms can be, they're not rakes - and there were enormous areas they were making tidy. Still, the kids happily went about their work.

Their annual holiday party is a full day of food and fun, many of the activities planned and organized by the kids themselves - right down to meal suggestions. While the lunch I saw the three pictured below eating looked like a healthy, balanced meal - and they hardly wasted a spoonful - for this one day they discuss and make a request for a special dish as a treat; something the everyday budget can't be stretched for, such as hot dogs or fried chicken. That's where some of the additional funding from PSKSP comes into play.

Along with the games and meals there's a dance that goes late into the evening. Last year the favored number was "Kung Fu Fighting", and I was told the dance floor filled each time it was played. It probably had to do with a renewed interest in the song after it was used in the Kung Fu Panda movie. I considered inserting the original song video here, but I'm not that cruel.

Each of the kids receive at least a couple of gifts, too - and for many they're most likely the only presents they've gotten the entire year. It's no small wonder why it's such a popular event. Sometimes a family member comes to visit them that day, and they, too, receive a bundle of food to take home.

Food packages are assembled for the big day

The party will be coming up soon, and here's where you can help: sponsorship cost per child is a mere 2.5GBP, or just under $4USD. That's just a bit more than many reading this are likely to spend on a latte today, and less than a fast food lunch.

The link to a page with their PayPal account is HERE. Please consider making a donation and note that the funds are for the Hauy Phong party.  They'll get it to the right place.

Bangkok Art And Cultural Centre Exhibits

Yesterday's post about the BACC (the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre) showed you the front and what some of the insides look like.  Today you'll see some of the exhibits that were on display one time when I had my camera and the presence of mind to take pictures.

One grouping featured penguins, a bird almost unheard of in Thailand other than in a zoo. With a second computerized movie featuring them just out a couple of weeks I'd guess it might be a nice exhibit to have there now, but these were there a couple of years ago.

The panels exhibit - done with input from many different people - filled a large area, and depicted a wide variety of topics.  Since the museum is a very public place I doubt any of them were directly disrespectful or in violation of Thai law, but there were definitely protest statements among them; some featured familiar faces adorned with a Hitler-type mustache and swastikas.  Not being able to read Thai I'm going to err on the side of caution - or cowardice, depending on your level of generosity today.

The second panel below reflected some political unrest, but in light of the flooding recently it's timely now, too.

If you or someone you know are the artists represented here today and would like credit or the images of your work taken down simply email me at the address to the right and I'll be happy to comply.  Please let me know something to identify your ownership.

The building itself is a work of art. If you didn't see the examples yesterday, take a look.