The Bangkok Art And Cultural Centre

The Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre from a spot by the National Stadium BTS station. It's linked to by walkway to the 3rd floor entrance

Sitting in the midst of as frantic a commercial shopping area a tourist is ever likely to visit in Bangkok is a spot where you can escape both the crowds and the heat of the day: the Bangkok Art and Cultural Center, located across from the MBK and Siam Discovery shopping malls at the large Pathumwan intersection.

It's open every day but Monday from 10:00am to 9:00pm and - other than the occasional special event or concert - admission and all of the exhibits are free. I owe a good friend a tip of the hat for this one, as he was the first person I knew to talk about it. I've been there a few different trips, and since the exhibits are displayed on a rotating basis there's always a lot to see.

With its simple artistic rounded front and gracefully curved interior that reminded me somewhat of the Guggenheim museum in New York City it looked a little out of place amid the rest of the massive commercial gorillas that surround (and loom over) it, but as I paused to gaze out of the windows while wandering the halls there that seemed like a good thing, really; it reminded me of the calm you hear about that occurs in the eye of a hurricane, where all around you is raging out of control and yet you're able to stand unaffected.

A different view of the "MBK Intersection" from the June 18th post last year

I don't remember how many levels there are to explore at the center (seven, I think - and pardon my dropping back to the Western spelling) but there's plenty of exhibit space.  At least one level had spaces partitioned by glass walls to separate the works but still allow an open and spacious feel to the area, and there were a couple of larger exhibit halls, too.

Looking down the open central area from a higher floor

As I'd usually hope a museum or gallery to be, it was quiet throughout.  No piped music or informational recorded loops going to distract from the tranquility of the place.  There are a number of spots to sit and discuss the works, and people were sitting and talking quietly among themselves.  One man appeared to be deep in thought - or perhaps just waiting for someone he'd arrived with - but he was seated in the same chair the entire time I was visiting one afternoon. In fact, I've just noticed - if you look closely to the left in the panorama shot above you can see him, too.

The center is easy to get to, as well.  As I mentioned above it's right at the National Stadium BTS station, but it's also accessable by bus (their web site says you can use the 15, 16, 21, 25, 29, 34, 36, 40, 47, 48, 50, 54, 73, 79, 93, 141, 159, 204 and the air-con 508 lines) and if you're a canal boat traveler you can get off at the Sapan Hua-Chang landing and be about a football field away from the front doors.

If you've been shopping in the malls in Bangkok you're likely to have seen the buildings, but maybe never gone in. I wouldn't want to drag a double handful of shopping bags along with me, but I highly recommend you make a stop there to visit some time. It's a fantastic way to miss the heat of mid-day. Go shopping afterwards.

Next time: pictures of some of the exhibits.

BACC: Bangkok Arts and Cultural Center

Happy Birthday To His Majesty

The King and Queen (from some years back) addressing a crowd

On July 25th of this year I did a post about His Royal Highness King Bhumibol Adulyadej (also known as King Rama IX) as a younger man, using some pictures I'd taken at a large photo exhibit in Rama II park in Amphawa.  The King is 84 today, and while his health has waned over the last couple of years the love and admiration the Thai hold for him hasn't faded a bit.

The Pan Pacific Hotel's birthday greeting a couple of years ago

Rarely leaving the hospital where he's been cared for since what official sources called a respiratory illness landed him there in September 2009 HRH was taken today to his home, where he made a televised appeal from a balcony for unity among the Thai... on what most would assume he meant to be on a variety of levels.

As I write and post this it's late in the evening of his day there, but here's hoping his wish for his land - and his people - comes true.

Press photo of His Royal Hignhess, taken today

Thai Smiles, Part 42: A Resort "Family"

I nicknamed these employees The 3 Musketeers

One of the nice things about less formal lodging is the opportunity to visit with the people involved with where you're staying.  While the Hiltons and Meridians are lovely places they're really not nearly as conducive to casual conversations with the folks that own them - or work there, for that matter.  I know of one friend who met their partner while staying at a smaller guest house over a decade ago, and they're still happily sharing life together. In fact, they've got their 12th anniversary coming up soon.

I had the opportunity to stay at a small, family-owned and family-run Thai resort last year, and it was a pleasure I'd gladly repeat. There wasn't a uniformed attendant in sight as we crossed the footbridge from the parking area, and I unwittingly walked right into their home when we arrived, thinking it was the registration area.  It was, to a certain extent; the wife came out through a doorway of what was their living room, smiled and greeted me.  All I had to say was "check in" and she said "Yes", turned back through the doorway and returned a minute later with two keys, one for me and one for my friend. My friend had reserved the rooms in advance, but still it was nice to not have to stop, fill out a form and hand someone a credit card. I learned afterwards that they rarely get farang here.

The wife did a lot of the cooking in the open kitchen just a few yards away from the open (but well covered) dining area, the sons did some of the serving, and there were a few regulars on staff who did a variety of odd jobs on the grounds: gardening, some construction, basic housekeeping, fishing and the likes.  In fact, the first day they were stacking and cementing cinder blocks for a small building in progress, and I thought they were just there for that until I saw them later that day doing other things.

As I expected, the owner's children were pleased to see someone check in who could speak some English and whenever their rounds brought them near me they'd greet me and try out a phrase they remembered, often getting it wrong but happy to hear it back correctly.  They'd giggle and repeat it a couple of times before moving along with whatever it was they were doing.

Stopping by in the dining room to practice some English

The owner to the left above didn't speak much English at all, and the guys up top spoke none whatsoever, but clowning around is as universal as a smile and we managed to amuse each other.  When I got my camera out to take a picture the owner laughed, jiggled one side of his chest with this hand and said something in Thai to my friend, who translated "He says now he's fat and has boobs like a woman!"  I told him I've seen farang in far worse shape on the beach, and when the man heard that translated back he laughed again, nodding his head.

Since I was there for a while you'll undoubtedly see some of these people here again. Welcoming, gracious and polite they personified so much of what makes Thailand such a wonderful place to explore.  I love my morning walks in the city, but these days away from the Big Mango are often the highlights of my trips there.

Metalwork one day, painting the next, fishing the third - it didn't seem to matter as long as it was sanuk.

And Still Another One Gone...

Many of you who regularly read my ramblings have already figured out that I don't drink alcohol or take any sort of mind-altering drugs. While I understand that it's incomprehensible for some of you to think of going through life like that, trust me: I did enough back in my wilder times to be able to say with confidence that my life is far better without them. I wouldn't presume to speak for anyone else, though.

For over two decades I've participated in a loosely-bundled organization where men and women of similar minds share their experience, strength and hope with each other, and it's only natural that in over such a long stretch of time we become close to people we regularly interact with as we share the same paths, learning more about each other, building the bonds of friendship over the years.

One such person was my friend Don, who passed away Tuesday night at the age of 84. I was just finishing up yesterday's post when the phone call came in, and I had to stop for an hour or so before I could again focus on the monitor. He was a fine example of a man, a valued mentor, and someone I will miss like I would a member of my own family, because in some ways he was.

In his memory I'm giving this a rest today.

Travel Tips: Leaving Suvarnabhumi, Pt 2

Airline check-in counters at Suvarnabhumi

In Part One about flying out of Suvarnabhumi International you saw reference shots of the public portions of the departure area; what you'd encounter before going through Passport Control. Today (with a couple of photographic exceptions, like the one above) you'll get an idea of what it's like past that, on the way to the departure gates.

By the Yak you saw guarding the currency exchange yesterday is a small Family Mart where you can purchase some last-minute items (or cheap packaged snacks), but remember that you won't be allowed to carry liquids and the usual forbidden things through the security still ahead of you and there will be plenty of opportunities to buy souvenirs and duty free items closer to the gates.

At the Passport Control windows they'll stamp your passport with an exit stamp and collect the departure form they stapled to it when you arrived. You did keep that in a safe place, didn't you? You'd better hope so, or you're likely to miss your flight while you arm wrestle with Thai Immigration.

The entrance to Passport Control, with the wait lines out of view

Immediately past those desks you'll come to a downward sloping area that will bring you to the security check point, where you'll have to do the usual screening: all metal out of your pockets, laptops out of their cases, sometimes (but not always) shoes, that sort of thing.  No liquids over 3 ounces (88 milliliters), no knives or flammables - most of you already know the drill.

Past Security you'll see guide signs that will direct you to the gate area (such as D6)indicated on your boarding pass. Don't be fooled into thinking it's only a few steps away, because it's not - the boarding gate "arms" stretch out a ways. It's liable to take you at least 10 to 15 minutes to get there, depending on how much stuff you're hauling along with you - and if you make any stops at all along the way to browse, use the rest room, grab a newspaper or whatever.

A personable man selling real designer watches at a duty free shop

There are stretches of moving walkways along the lengthy arms of the airport, and I've usually found them in service.  If nothing else they give you an opportunity to look around better for a couple of minutes, instead of having to be vigilant about moving along through a crowd of people hauling their stuff around; all too often oblivious that there are others around them.

I always enjoy the brief respite of a moving walkway

There are many, many places to shop, eat and drink along the way. Duty free liquor and cigarette shops, Tourism of Thailand (ToT) "locals" handicraft souvenirs, duty free fragrances, skin conditioners and make up, and a good variety of eateries. There's even a branch of Mango Tree, the touristy but interesting Thai restaurant on Soi 6 in the off of Suriwong Road. It's a flat out guarantee that some of you know where that location is.

The Suvarnabhumi location of Mango Tree

A variety of shops at an intersection toward the gate area.

The panorama below is similar to the one I used a couple of days ago, but slightly different.  The images were taken while looking down one of the gate arms. I kind of like it, so I'm including it today. Something I haven't mentioned is that the portions of these corridors that are translucent are a springy canvas-type material.  While they're waterproof to protect from the rain and moisture they also serve as drum heads during a downpour, and create a rumble that can equal slightly distant thunder.  It's pretty impressive.

Another reason to allow a little extra time is that walking along these corridors you get some interesting views of the aircraft, tarmac, sky and surrounding areas:

You saw a different view of these windows in the 28 August 2010 post about the window washers at Suvarnabhumi - a job I'd not care to try. While up above they sometimes walk around on the canvas-type rooftop I mentioned above, and I've even observed some of them bounce around on it a bit, as though they're on a trampoline.

Once you've arrived at your gate sign you have a choice of a ramp or stairs down to the actual waiting area where you'd show your boarding pass and then wait to be called to board the plane.  There are a few video monitors, usually showing news or a sporting event or some such thing, but I'd strongly suggest bringing a book or whatever you normally use to entertain yourself.

I met someone once who was already online, looking to book their next trip back to the Land of Smiles. That sounded like a good idea to me.

I hope this helps some of you newer visitors.  Comments are always welcome, and if I can help with any other questions you can drop me an email any time at baobaosblog@gmail.com.

To Pee, Or Not To Pee (In Public, That Is)

The man in white in this field should have no problem whatsoever finding an appropriately private place to relieve himself, I'd say. 

Is it acceptable to urinate anywhere other than in a recognized rest room or bathroom? For most people in the Western world it's not really a question at all any time we're thinking clearly - unless we're out in the countryside somewhere relatively private.  I've never actually tried to lift my leg on one but I've peed near my share of trees over the decades.

From my distant past I recall occasions when I subscribed to a theory that a large volume of beer in your bladder caused pressure on some unnamed nerve to the common decency portion of the brain, triggering the false thought that it was acceptable to release that same large quantity as quickly as possible: in a stairwell, on a neighboring table, wherever possible. Depending on how much alcohol you've already run through your system the decision may become a somewhat moot point, also; countless online images and videos can attest to people's lack of control, if not propriety.

You'll regularly see adults with small children in Taiwan, for example, thinking nothing of stopping a the male child with them on a city sidewalk, opening their fly, and directing them to relieve themselves into the gutter or onto the sidewalk itself.  Who knows what they'd do with a little girl - thankfully I've never seen a wee one squatting anywhere that I can remember. Some will turn the boy towards a hedge or flower bed, but I haven't kept that kind of track of it, naturally - it's just an oddity I'm not used to seeing here in the US, unless it's what appears to be a homeless person peeing in a doorway. Goodness knows there are parts of many cities here that have a disturbingly high level of urine scent about them; no need to point out any individually.

Riding along in a taxi one afternoon in a "nicer" part of the office business area of Bangkok I was surprised, though, to see an Asian man in his later middle age walk over toward a hedge along the sidewalk, and, without so much as a glance around to see who else may be nearby in addition to the lanes of stopped traffic open the fly of his well-tailored suit and pee more or less into the shrubbery.  I say more or less, because even from the taxi at a casual glance it was no secret that the man wasn't raised in a family that believed in circumcision.

It made me wonder why on earth he didn't use the facilities in the last building he'd been in or why he couldn't hold on until the next ones were available.  He didn't seem to be visibly anxious or in distress - indeed, the most striking thing about it was his casual air while "airing" it.

Before anyone goes looking for the "comments" button I'm well aware that Thailand's culture is not like things here, and like I said: sometimes Nature, substances, medical conditions and other reasons can sometimes skew our views on what's proper. It just startled me that particular day, but here's hoping the habit doesn't spread as the norm to those over, say, the age of seven or eight.  Bangkok has enough on its palette of aromas already, thank you very much!

Travel Tips: Leaving Suvarnabhumi Airport

One of Suvarnabhumi's long departure gate arms

[Back on February 3rd of this year there was a post - primarily for newbies to Thailand - about arrival procedures at Suvarnabhumi International Airport in Bangkok. Today's is intended to make heading out of Thailand a little easier for those same folks, and may or may not be helpful to seasoned travelers.]

Suvarnabhumi International Airport is around 40 minutes by taxi from the areas more commonly populated by most tourists, but it was protected from the past couple of months of flooding. The everyday folks living nearby weren't afforded that luxury, but that's another topic for another day. Let's just say Thailand is Thailand, and what would happen to Bangkok without entrance and egress by air and shelve the cynicism for the day.

The Departure area (Level 4), from Bangkok Airport Online

Arriving by taxi you either carry or roll your bag(s) or grab a free luggage cart and walk by crosswalk across the sidewalk and through one of the front doors of the the huge terminal. I stopped outside of one of them and took the four photos you see stitched together below:

You can see the ground level Arrivals area, where you might have caught your taxi into the city when you arrived. 

Once you're inside you can look at the lit sign boards for to find your airline's area and then make your way to their check-in area down one of the long rows of aisles . . .

The vast expanse of check-in counters, domestic and international

This is where you'd get up to the lounge

I took the above panorama of the airline check-in desks from one level above, near a fairly good sized (but somewhat overpriced) lounge where you can purchase light meals items and visit with a friend before going through passport control and into the area where only ticketed passengers are allowed.

It's comfortable, and has many small individual areas with chairs and sofas to sit and talk.  Of course, if you have membership in one of the airline frequent flier programs that allows you into one of the airline lounges you'll probably just want to go there, but they're past the security point.  Ask at the check-in counter for the location, as they're not all clumped together at Suvarnabhumi.

If someone's come to see you off you can sit and visit in comfort for a bit and just have coffee or tea, if you wish. Eventually I'll run across the photos I took there and post them, but I can't seem to find them today. Don't understand why - I only have 40,000 or so here to look through...

The yak statue seems to be guarding the exchange, passport control, and the toilets.

If you've still got Thai currency you'd like to exchange there's one last chance just to the side of the passport control area, although you're going to have to accept the exchange rate they have posted there that day. Normally they're not out to gouge you, and frankly I tend to just take home what I have in my wallet at this point; it's a safe bet I'll be back.

Once you've decided to go through the passport control area you enter the blocked off area and get in line to have your passport stamped with your exit validation. There are VIP services you may choose to look into that get you through the lines faster, but I've never felt that was necessary, myself.  Be aware, however, that you don't really have any idea until you've entered the area if the process is going to take 10 minutes or an hour, so be warned and allow plenty of time.  The fine forum ThaiVisa provided two links that I've found handy, so I'll share them here: Suvarnabhumi Arrivals Info and Suvarnabhumi Departures Info

I allow 45 minutes to an hour, and if I'm through there faster I can take my time making what seems to be a two mile walk past the shops and restaurants to the gates or settle in at the airline lounge.

More on those areas next time.

This empty space at passport control is a freak occurrence. I see it switch-backed like the lines in an amusement park most times.

[This is the first of two parts about flying out of Suvarnabhumi International. Part Two is HERE.]

If You Can Peel It, You Can Eat It

Green skinned oranges, apples, star fruit, carrots, tomatoes and pears at a corner produce stall. All can be rinsed and/or peeled

[To address a recent email, let me repeat that I'm not a doctor and I advise you to adjust your behavior level to keep it within your own comfort zone while away from home. For example, you may keep your hands clean but there's no guarantee whatsoever that any food handler does.]

It's the day after Thanksgiving here in the USA, and my system still hasn't fully recovered from the over-abundance of things I ate a bit too much of yesterday.  While lamenting my gluttony I was reminded by a guest  of a story I'd told them of an unfortunate day or so I'd gone through after a large and varied meal at an Isaan BBQ place.  I'll spare you the details here, but it did put things in perspective.

Even in a five-star hotel there's no guarantee that the food won't give you some problems, but if you don't take some educated chances you're going to miss out on a lot while traveling. The trick is to educate yourself in advance a little bit and not take obviously foolish chances, such as using a visibly already well-used cup to drink water from a communal bucket out in a rural area.

In earlier posts about (attempting to) keep your stomach and intestinal systems within some control, stay healthy while in Thailand - and avoid what my friend calls the "rumbly in the tumbly" we've talked about a variety of snacks that are usually OK to chow down on, like corn, ice cream sandwiches, youtiao, street-side omelets and waffles.

Delicious Thai oranges: ripe and sweet, even with a green skin

Here's another tip, albeit one you need to combine it with some common sense: if you can peel it, you can eat it.

Here at home in the USA it's wisest to rinse off any kind of fruit or vegetables before eating them, and that's also true in Thailand - but having potable water to rinse them off with isn't always possible.  Before putting produce away when I get back to my hotel, bed and breakfast or whatever I wash it off as best I can under the tap. Once they've been cleaned I personally feel that grapes, apples, star fruit, mango, papaya and the likes are all reasonably "safe".

Pomegranates, Northeast Thailand

This is another area where using your powers of observation and some common sense can save you dealing with a problem... more often than not!

Bananas: probably the safest produce-type snack of all.

Giving Thanks, Again...

A fancy turkey dinner, with many traditional dishes

Last year at this time I did a post about Thanksgiving, a holiday that's unfortunately all too often buried beneath an armload of newspaper advertising supplements for Black Friday, one of the biggest retail shopping days of the year.

My thoughts on the holiday and what I think it ought to represent aren't much different today than they were a year ago, other than they've aged and (hopefully) mellowed a bit more. 

Here again is the piece from one of my all-time favorite columnists, Jon Carroll. To my way of thinking it neatly ties the whole bundle up with a bow, and has become part of my annual tradition; a somewhat calm port before the storm of  The Holidays officially begins.  I hope it means something to you, too. 

Happy Thanksgiving, everyone.

--------------------------------------------------

A Song of Thanks; A Grat Etude

by Jon Carroll, copyright held by the San Francisco Chronicle

Thanksgiving has always been my favorite holiday. It is comfortably free of the strident religious and/or militaristic overtones that give the other holidays their soft emanations of uneasiness.

At Christmas, for instance, we are required to deal with the divinity of Jesus -- I know some of you folks have made up your minds about that one, but not me -- and on the Fourth of July we must wrestle with the question of whether all those simulated aerial bombardments represent the most useful form of nationalism available.

At Thanksgiving, all we have to worry about is whether we can wholeheartedly support (a) roasted turkey, (b) friends and (c) gratitude. My opinions on these matters are unambiguous; I am in favor of them all. I understand that there's another story attached to Thanksgiving, all about a meal that may not have happened at all and certainly didn't happen on the fourth Thursday of November. 

The implication of the school-pageant version of Thanksgiving is that everything was just swell between the Pilgrims and the Indians. That's not true, and things got a lot worse before they got marginally better. But Thanksgiving isn't about that -- it's a harvest festival. We can attach some dopey Squanto-give-corn narrative to it, but it's really about how once more the earth has been fruitful and all the crops are safely in the barn. Thus, for me, the thrill of Thanksgiving is undiminished by caveats, codicils or carps. That alone is something to be thankful for.

Thanksgiving provides a formal context in which to consider the instances of kindness that have enlightened our lives, the moments of grace that have gotten us through when all seemed lost. These are fine and sentimental subjects for contemplation.

First, there are the public personalities, artists and entertainers and philosophers, who have been there when they were needed, whether they knew it or not. Let us think kind thoughts about Nancy Pelosi and Helen Mirren, Barbara Lee and Frank Gore, Al Gore and David Milch, David Simon and Mikhail Baryshnikov, Tom Stoppard and Keith Olbermann, Jennifer Egan and Peter Carey, Van Morrison and Clarence Fountain, Don Asmussen and Judith Martin, Duncan Black and Joshua Micah Marshall, Dan Savage and Masi Oka -- this is my partial list; feel free to create your own.

And the teachers, the men and women who took the time to fire a passion for the abstract, to give us each a visceral sense of the continuity of history and the adventure of the future. Our society seems determined to denigrate its teachers -- at its peril, and at ours. This is their day as well.

Even closer. Companions. We all learned about good sex from somebody, and that person deserves a moment. Somebody taught us some hard lesson of life, told us something for our own good, and that willingness to risk conflict for friendship is worth a pause this day. And somebody sat with us through one long night, and listened to our crazy talk and turned it toward sanity; that person has earned this moment too.

And a moment for old friends now estranged, victims of the flux of alliances and changing perceptions. There was something there once, and that something is worth honoring as well.

Our parents, of course, and our children; our grandparents and our grandchildren. We are caught in the dance of life with them and, however tedious that dance can sometimes seem, it is the music of our lives. To deny it is to deny our heritage and our legacy.

And thanks, too, for all the past Thanksgivings, and for all the people we shared them with. Thanks for the time the turkey fell on the floor during the carving process; for the time Uncle Benny was persuaded to sing "Peg o' My Heart"; for the time two strangers fell in love, and two lovers fell asleep, in front of the fire, even before the pumpkin pie.

And the final bead on the string is for this very Thanksgiving, this particular Thursday, and the people with whom we will be sharing it. Whoever they are and whatever the circumstances that have brought us together, we will today be celebrating with them the gift of life and the persistence of charity in a world that seems bent on ending one and denying the other.

Thanks. A lot.

Thai Smiles, Part 41: Still More Random Shots

School kids on an outing at Rama II Park in Amphawa

It's been a few months since the last Thai Smiles installment, so since I'm preparing my home today for family visiting tomorrow to observe Thanksgiving I'm taking the easier, softer way and have assembled a few photos from around the kingdom over the last few years.

The couple below were on a bench in a park, very near where demonstrations and unpleasantness was to break out just a few months later. While the young woman wasn't smiling at the moment it's clear that the young man was not only smitten, but content!

This young girl below was riding her bicycle to school with a friend of hers as my guide Suphot and I were passing through the outskirts of Surin on our Isaan Odyssey. The first of the 28 parts of that road trip is here.

Last up today is the shot (below) of a woman laughing while chatting with friends at a sidewalk stall in Pattaya one morning as I was walking out to breakfast.

Seeing photos like these always makes me miss wandering around in Thailand.  I've been thinking about my next trip lately, and I suppose that's what got me to browsing through them and posting some today.