Thai Smiles, Part 57: At The Chiang Mai Flower Festival Parade

One of the float participants, waiting with his friends for their ride

Every so often the stars align correctly and my travel schedule allows me to take in places and events I wouldn't ordinarily experience. This past trip I found myself in Chiang Mai during the days of the annual flower festival, and if you're any sort of flower fanatic it's a sight not to be missed. Since we haven't added anything to the Thai Smiles series since last August it seems time for a new set, and here it is.

A male and a female? Two males? Two females? Half the fun is in the guessing, so no clues...

As has been my usual modus operandi I'm going to start off with some pictures taken before the actual event, and cover the peripheral information, parade and floats themselves in the near future. If I space on that again (there's still more to come on the ocean-side Maruekatayawan teak palace post from last December, for example) feel free to e-kick me in the butt and remind me.

Two guys working on a power generator at the staging area

There was a staging area for the float participants to gather and await the walk to their floats that had been parked on side streets in preparation for the parade. The parade itself was on Thai Time, and if it actually got started at 16:00 I couldn't tell you where; no place near the parade route, that's for sure.

A tourist's child, sitting with three participants

So... here today are a few of the people awaiting further instructions. More about the parade (and festival) to come soon.

The traditional costumes were - as you'd expect - quite colorful

Thai Smiles, Part 56: More Random Folks

I may have used this in the past somewhere. Apologies if so, but it's one I like.

OK, I guess the "break's" about over: I'm back from a stay in Hawaii. For a lot of you that probably conjures up images of beaches, umbrella drinks and lazy days, but this trip was to inter a family member's ashes and begin clearing their houseful of possessions - a good 65 years' worth. We put a very small dent in the total.

I learned that muggy and dusty don't play well together. I'd like to call it a fine patina of history you accumulate on your damp skin, but in truth it's just a layer of grime that makes a tepid shower a treat at least a couple of times a day. Like Thailand, but in this case not merely to cool off or get yourself "freshy," as a Thai friend likes to call it.

It was fun, though, in an odd sort of way - and I freely admit to be an odd sort of person.  The three of us going through things laughed a lot, and caught ourselves smiling over and over again when we'd come across something that sparked a happy memory... which is the best sort of memorial service any of us left behind can offer up, I think! The local UPS shop may send a Christmas card this year after processing about relatively weighty 20 cases of memorabilia and family history for shipment home here; I think I doubled their total week's income.

That said, I found myself going back to the folder of "Smiles" photos a day or two ago simply as a pick-me-up now that the dust has settled, figuratively and literally. It's been a little over three months since we've added to the series, so here are a few more from the archives:

The kid above was one at an orphanage I'd visited in support of a charity. It was lunchtime when we arrived there, but before we'd left the boys had put their plates away and were enjoying their free time. For a variety of reasons the girls are in their own area on the grounds. Visitors are a novelty - you can't simply show up; clearance and supervision are wisely required - and farang visitors are even less common. That adds to the novelty factor, and the kids are always ready to mug for the camera.

This guy was working along Beach Road in Pattaya one morning, trying to get tourists to allow him to set them up with activities for the morning or day. Anyone who's done door-to-door sales (or worse, "cold calling" phone sales) can appreciate him relating how when he gives his pitch he gets turned down a hundred times a day. I made it 101, but he smiled for the photo anyway.

Life's a game, but a game can provide a break in daily life, too

It was lunchtime on an unusually hot day in Bangkok when I took the picture of the two men playing checkers on the sidewalk in front of Pantip Plaza.

The one in the athletic t-shirt (known to some here in the U.S. as "wife beaters", but forgive me for starting in on something that would take too much time to explain) saw me standing and watching and actually thought I might be of some assistance. He made a move, but kept his finger on the piece while glancing up for my approval. Not wanting to butt in I just shrugged my shoulders. As he finalized the move and the man in blue took advantage of his mistake the one in the tee looked up again, shrugged his shoulders and I caught the smile.

Students on a field trip at Doi Suthep, near Chiang Mai 

The last image today is of a group of students I met at Doi Suthep, high on the hillside above Chiang Mai. There's no story behind it, but it's one of those pictures that makes me smile, so I'm sharing it with you.

Dinner Out: Ginger House In Chiang Mai

A portion of the dining room on a quiet night

 A farang friend who will be meeting up with me in Bangkok during my next visit was asking yesterday if I could recommend somewhere he could go exploring on his own and still remain within his comfort zone.  Previously he's only ventured off to Phuket, and even then he stayed in a specific area the entire four or five days. This time he was willing to be a little more adventurous, so I suggested Chiang Mai.

Wait Staff

In looking back through pictures to give him an idea of places to see and an idea for a place to stay I came across these photos of a nice dinner I had with a friend a few years ago: Ginger House. It was a reasonably short tuk tuk ride from PJ's Place where I'd booked a room for us, and seeing the pictures I was again reminded what a delightful meal and evening it was.

We haven't spoken much about Chiang Mai, and that's to my shame. The city itself is just one part of a much larger area of well over a million people, and while it can be chaotic (and smoggy during some agricultural seasons) I'd say it was one of the more picturesque tourist destinations. We'll return to it shortly, but this is about a dinner out, so let's get back to that...

Ginger House is a small place, but that's a good thing. The dining room seats less than 40 (should memory serve), but it's decorated to make you feel that it's even more intimate than that; the furnishings, accents, objets d'art and overall ambiance were, well... just delightful.

The rose petals were an unnecessary - but thoughtful - touch

We were seated near a window at a small table with a love seat on one side and two comfy chairs on the other. Seating for four, comfortably, but it was just the two of us that night. I think when I made the reservation they suspected my Thai friend and I were a couple and put us there rather than at a table, but that's fine - we were really able to be comfortable and enjoy the wonderful food.

Their macadamia crusted chicken entree

My Thai friend doesn't eat beef, so he suggested we try the set dinner on offer that evening, which began with a marinated salmon with lemon and orange segment salad, followed by a bowl of delicious creamed pumpkin soup. The entree (above) of a moist chicken breast topped by a macadamia nut crust, served on a bed of asparagus atop a serving of Japanese pumpkin, all surrounded by a ring of tomato salsa.

It was just enough to be full, but not overly so, which was fine with me... that left room for dessert. Dessert in the set included the chocolate espresso brulee (below), so we didn't take much of a look at the dessert table, although what I saw of it looked really good. The brulee was quite rich, and - fortunately for me - too sweet for my Thai friend!

I sincerely hope they're doing well, because I'll be looking for them when I get to Chiang Mai again. I'd have dinner there in a heartbeat.

By the way, the set dinner that night was Bt900, or about $30. More than I'd normally pay for a dinner out, but this was worth it. Their menu is available through the link below.

Ginger House Restaurant, Cafe and Shops

That evening's available desserts, out for perusal

Vachiratharn Waterfall

After our stop at the highest point in Thailand we were about halfway back down the mountain in Doi Inthanon National Park when Jiab flipped on his signal and slowed to make the turn into the park-within-a-park so I could see the Vachiratharn waterfall. I’d been keeping up with my water intake so had figured it wasn’t much more than a welcome rest stop and had no idea it would be the impressive place it turned out to be.

My guide, Jiab (owner of PJ’s Place in Chiang Mai) had probably been there countless times so knew the most convenient spot to park the van for a hong nam (bathroom) stop, but as I got out I could actually see a portion of the falls and hear its roar - so I denied Nature’s call and turned to make the short walk up the path and stone steps to see the falls. They were fantastic, especially for being this being September and late in the rainy season.

Plumes of mist rose from the churning water as it cascaded 230 feet down the steep, rocky granite hillside and I soon gave up trying to keep my sunglasses dry, opting to protect the camera instead. Clouds moved across overhead, making photos a bit of a challenge as the light changed dramatically every few minutes, but it also allowed me to be in the correct spot (sun behind me, mist in front of me) to catch a few shots with a rainbow arcing across below our vantage point.

There’s a trail up the left-hand side to the top of the falls where you can get what I was told was an amazing view, but as the mist was blowing to the left we’d have gotten soaked and that – along with this silly fear I have of slipping off of slick rocks and tumbling ass over tit 70 yards or so down to more rocks – kept me content staying at the main viewing area.

After getting sufficiently wet we walked back down past the van to the visitor’s area, where I gratefully made use of the hong nam and wandered around the lower falls area, watching the deep, fast-moving water rush along between and over the boulders as it made its way to one of the rivers fed by the mountain’s rain runoff. As has been the case so many times I said to myself “well, that’d be a lawsuit waiting to happen back in the USA” as I noticed the small sign reading NO WADING as the only barrier to keep foolhardy tourists from taking their chances in the deep, fast moving water.

Doi Inthanon is about 80Km (around 50 miles) from Chiang Mai, the ride was restful, the countryside lush and green. Your park admission to Doi Inthanon includes this stop, and it’s one you’ll regret missing if you don’t. We didn’t stop to eat but there was an open-air restaurant. There are no strenuous trails to hike and as I said, the parking is plentiful and convenient.

Accommodations, Part 3: PJ’s Place

If you’ve traveled much you probably have memories of favorite places you’ve stayed; hotels, bed and breakfasts or guest houses you remember fondly long after you’ve returned home – sometimes with more than a casual longing in the middle of an endless morning sales meeting or an especially stressful afternoon. I have a few that are my favorites, but people often have different criteria; my tranquil bed and breakfast may sound terrible to someone who wants a state-of-the-art gymnasium or 20 yards of buffet tables or bell boys available on their breaks (for an additional tip).

I almost hesitate to mention one of my favorites for fear it’ll be spoiled by the unappreciative or otherwise boorish, but I did promise the owner a review last Fall and guess it’s time to deliver, so here goes:

You know those rare occasions when you start off just booking a room but end up checking out feeling more like you’ve visited friends? That’s PJ’s Place: small, comfortable, and homey. The view above is what greets you when you arrive “home” after an evening out, along with the occasional chic-chic-chic of geckos, the gentle sound of the fountain in the garden and the distant buzz of cicadas. It’s nothing less than lovely.

One view of the garden areas

There are only six rooms. Well, actually seven, but one is the residence of Peter and Jiab – the “P” and “J” – who are the bookends that hold the place up, aided by two delightful young men who do most of the day to day maintenance.

Gan (on the left) and Dang (on the right) both arrive early for work and you’re liable to run into them several times throughout the day. They take breakfast orders, cook and serve them and then clean the dining room when breakfast is over. They then move on to their other responsibilities; housekeeping, gardening and things needing attention around the small complex.

To answer the question for some of you hoping otherwise: neither of them are “interested” or available. Understanding the value of quality help Jiab learned early on that some guests weren’t content to take “no thank you” for an answer, and he’s (wisely) hired accordingly.

The dining room (above) and a cooked-to-order breakfast (below)

Located on a quiet soi just off Huay Kaew Road PJ’s has most anything the casual visitor would need for a quiet break on a whirlwind tour – all within a five- to ten-minute walk. One of my favorites was the Lemon Tree restaurant (a fine casual setting for Thai food) just a couple of minutes away. The Kad Suan Kaew mall is maybe another couple minutes further, where you can catch a movie, eat at several “chain” restaurants or do some shopping.

ALSO within very easy walking distance:

1) Hillside Condo, with a pool and fitness center available for public use
2) Le Gong Kum, serving Vietnamese food
3) Salsa Kitchen, serving Mexican food
4) Chiang Mai’s #1 private hospital, Chiang Mai Ram
5) SoHo Bar, a friendly place to have a drink, visit and meet new friends
6) B-Beez, a small but accommodating male massage venue, and
7) House of Male, Chiang Mai’s one true sauna

One of a thousand possible views of the acres of night market

You’re only a short tuk-tuk ride from the walled old city, the night market and most any other visitor spots.

Room Five, upstairs, overlooking the garden

Your room includes everything you’d expect for a comfortable stay: TV, a DVD player, a safe, tea and coffee making supplies, WiFi and LAN connections and a full English breakfast. Something I especially appreciated was that ALL of the rooms are non-smoking.

Room Five shower (the doors open out from the corner)

The bathrooms are spotless, the bed was very comfortable (even Goldilocks would have approved… it was just right) and the patio is a wonderful place to sit and read in the afternoon.

PJ’s Tours is a personal touring service, coupled with the guest house and led by Jiab in a roomy, air conditioned van. You can either book your trips in advance from their web site or on the fly from a binder in the sitting area of the dining room, and after three different days on the road with him I heartily recommend trying it out. It’s probably best to book your tours in advance (especially during the busiest months) to avoid him not being available as – surprise! – he can only be in one place with one group at a time.

Jiab, on an orchid farm outing

As you’d expect of an experienced native guide he’s quite well versed in all things Chiang Mai and seemed to have contacts for most anything we were looking to see or shop for. Patient, informative and – having a lovely sense of humor – he’s great company.

One of the nicest points about this oasis is also the only unfortunate part: there are only six rooms; four double rooms and two suite houses, so plan in advance and make your reservations early. Take along your partner or special friend for a memorable stay.

You’re in for a real treat.

http://pjs-place.com/

Elephants, Part 1: Mae Taeng in Chiang Mai

Any time we as tourists see animals in roadside-type attractions most of us feel a little sorry for them. I've seen my share of tigers who've been sedated enough to allow folks to pose with them for photos with an implied level of alleged safety - and I admit I've paid to do the pose.

I've also seen my share of elephants being forced to walk around on paved streets in a number of places. The asphalt is really tough on their foot pads and the autos, motorcycles and exhaust can't be good for their well being - physical or emotional, either one.

The Mae Taeng Elephant Park I visited near Chiang Mai last Fall wasn't a "roadside" place, it was a true encampment; the people giving all indication that they were sincere in their efforts to "rescue" elephants formerly used as beasts of burden, and that's also what I was told by the friend who deals with them on a regular basis. The only thing I AM sure of is that there are rarely absolutes, so while there probably ARE unhappy chang (elephants) there overall I feel comfortable recommending the place.

You'll see more clips and pictures in future posts from my day there, but here's one to end March with. It's a little jerky - I asked the elephant to move a little more smoothly, but I guess she wasn't listening. Maybe if I'd had a little bunch of bananas for her...