Accommodation, Pt. 22: The Rose Hotel, Bangkok

From the Rose Hotel, looking down the sub-soi (and Le Meridian's side driveway) to Suriwong Road

Down a narrow sub-soi off of Suriwong Road, past a line of food carts, storage bins (and the occasional worker napping on top of them) lies the entrance to the Rose Hotel, tucked quietly in behind the Northeast corner of the enormous Le Meridian Hotel that faces Suriwong itself.

Although nearby areas are bustling until the wee small hours of the morning, being where it is the hotel is a blissfully quiet spot.

Google street map view - The Rose beneath the green arrow

It's what I'd call a medium-sized hotel: 72 rooms and suites, in a variety of sizes and within a reasonable range of prices - from $50USD for a corner room double to $53-58USD for a standard (with breakast) up to $90USD for a junior suite during the current low season (prices from Agoda, which don't include taxes).

Standard room bed, double occupancy

The rooms may seem small to those who are used to enough room to swing one of the area's feral cats, but I don't spend a hell of a lot of time in my room on vacation, anyway, so I've been fine with them. Some rooms - such as some of the corner rooms - don't allow much more space than the bed itself takes up, but their standard rooms are more than adequate. I've never stayed in a suite there, but you can see the hotel's photos for them here.

Standard room desk, TV, refrigerator and mini-bar

I've stayed there a few times and, other than once when the aircon unit drain stopped working and made a small puddle on the floor beneath it I can't think of anything I've ever been unhappy with, save one thing: the wi-fi isn't free. I hope they remedy that soon, as it seems a needless charge for a place that size and at those rates.

The Rose Hip restaurant is a very pleasant place for breakfast or lunch, and there's always the lovely teakwood Ruen Urai restaurant with its formal (but not stuffy) atmosphere for dinner. The restaurant is just to the side of the front of the restaurant, next to the pool area. While they don't require reservations I'd suggest making one to avoid being told "sorry, all full for tonight" at the reception desk - something four of us had happen once at 19:00 on a weeknight. You can reach them for a reservation via the link above, and look at or download the PDF of their menu here.

I've always had good water pressure and plenty of hot water in the bathrooms

For those who thrive on - or at least dive into the deep end of - the  colorful night life in the Big Mango the central tourist hub is within an easy walk, for breeders and non-breeders alike. I've added some numbers to this satellite shot, and there's an explanation just below the image. You may find it helpful to open the image in a new window.

Another Rose hong nam view

1 is the Rose Hotel - as a point of reference. 2 is the Sala Daeng BTS station on Silom Road, 3 is the main street of the Patpong Night Market (stories about the daily afternoon setting up are here and here - with a video clip here). 4 is Soi 4, home to several nice places to eat and some gay clubs.

5 is Soi Thaniva, known to myself and a few friends as Soi Yipun - yipun being Thai for Japanese - because it's lined with a wide variety of restaurants and clubs (think "ping pong show") aimed more at the Japanese tourist than the farang, but still an interesting walk, even during the daytime. I ran into a tout there who wanted me to have a beer with him once, and had a somewhat testy exchange with a man offering children another time.

6 is Soi Pratuchai, aka Soi Twilight, where the highest concentration of gay clubs are. There are also several comfortable places to sit, have a drink and watch the parade of tourists and club people; especially delightful if there's any sort of breeze and you're not in a hurry to do anything but relax.

Finally, 7 is the general area below and near the Sala Daeng BTS station. In that single block you'll find the Bug and Bee, Coffee Society (a great spot for coffee and free wifi), two worthwhile massage shops  (Thai Thai [formerly Siam Sawasdee] and Green Tea to the left of it - both nice for foot massages, manicures and pedicures), a Burger King for those who need a little reminder of Western junk food and a few other places.

The unusual "inner core" of The Rose is above the lobby and cafe

There's hotel parking if you or a guest have an auto, and for those who find a good swimming pool an added bonus there's one of those, too; yet another good place to relax after a day of running around or just to rest before going out for dinner, drinks, clubbing or some combination thereof... whatever floats your boat.

Some interesting angles to one of the hotel's stairways

Although standard check in is 14:00 and check out is 12:00 noon they've (so far) always been as flexible as possible with those times. I don't recall specifics on the laundry fees, but I felt they were reasonable.  There's 24-hour room service available, and no - for those who are wondering - there is no additional fee for guests you might invite back to your room. It's not a "short time" hotel by any means, but other than asking for (and holding) your guest's identification they didn't bat an eye at anyone I saw coming through with a "rented admirer" while sitting and writing in the lobby late one evening, just to see.

The Rose plays with several of the booking services, and different sites get different blocks of rooms at different rates, sometimes, so check a few in addition to the hotel's site - which is The Rose Hotel. I'd suggest looking a ways in advance for high season bookings, as it's a popular place.

We're closing in on a couple of dozen hotel reviews so far, and there are still a lot of them to come. I hope at least a couple of them are a help to you while planning your stay. Drop me a line or leave a comment, if you would - whichever you're most comfortable with.

Playing With Fire On The Beach On Koh Samed

It's Friday, and Friday is usually the time when people's minds turn to thoughts outside of their office or regular weekday routines.  I'm no different, really (well, I freely admit to being a bit strange, but that's an entirely different arena) so I'm ready for a couple of days with friends and family.

Sitting out in the back yard with a cup of coffee this morning I watched birds landing in the upper pond of the waterfall to take a morning bath. Every so often one of them would misjudge the flow of the current and end up swept over the edge of the falls. They always catch themselves, naturally - birds can fly, after all - but one this morning kept dipping in, being carried over the brink and coming back to try it again... much like a child shouting "again! again!" when they're tickled by something.

The mild "flirting with danger" aspect of it reminded me of the traveling bands of Thai men who move along the beach of Koh Samed with their fire shows. Some are more skilled then others and some bear the scars of previous mistakes, but they, too, continue to flit about the flame(s) like moths.

So, here's an example of one of the somewhat larger groups doing a portion of a number. The sound isn't important on this one - trust me; the music was loud and the wind caused a roar in the recording as well.  Still, an entertaining routine.

Enjoy your weekend - whatever it is you end up doing.  

Trip Report, Part 31: The Report Concluded (Finally)

Carved detail at the Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya

When I realize how drawn out this trip report has been I almost feel an apology is due. Part 1 appeared back on May 7th of last year (Bangkok Bound), and finally ends today, just a bit shy of nine months since that first installment.

As mentioned back then I tend to glean something out of most other's trip reports, so hopefully mine will serve a purpose and you'll find some helpful tips/ideas/suggestions that you can refer to, too, even if not all of it applies to you, your travel plans or your own tastes.

The trip report covered my Thailand trip nearly a year ago, and we'd just gotten through a weekend trip into new territory for me, but I figure I'm going to call it there. I'm not entirely done with things from that trip, but the series has gone on long enough, it's getting dark and the floodlights annoy the neighbors so I'm calling it with this wrap-up; a summary, if you will.

The last portions had to do with a long weekend away I'd taken under the wing of an always gracious Thai friend who delights in sharing the "off the beaten path" places with me, and for that I'm always grateful. He has another junket planned for me for my next trip there this year, and I've given up on trying to guess where we'll go and what we'll see.  Since this is Thailand it's comforting to know that the unexpected can - and often does - pop up along the way and sometimes he's surprised, too.

Along the way in the series we covered a lot of ground, figuratively and literally. To save anyone scrolling back that far I hope you'll allow me to refer to some points along the way. The stories you'll reach by many of the links below often contain updates or further information, as well. You are, of course, free to click on the "Trip Reports" link in the right hand column and just plow through them, although since I was still in the kingdom another couple of weeks there may be other posts with that label after today. You've been warned.

Here are some of the things we covered during the 30+ part report:

• An updated installment on Duty free shopping at Taoyuan International Airport
• Transferring in Taipei and using airline lounges
• Arrivals in Bangkok, Immigration and ground transportation
• A visit to emergency at Bangkok Nursing Hospital
• Photos and a report about dinner at Sugar Hut Restaurant & Resort, Pattaya
• An accommodation report about Sunshine Vista Serviced Apartments, Pattaya
• Dinner at Sea Zone on Walking Street in Pattaya
• The tourist spot Million Years Stone Park in Pattaya
• Being a gracious guest and being fair to Thai friends
• A four part bit about the Sanctuary of Truth in Pattaya here, here, here and here
• A massage boy's story
• An updated reminder on staying healthy in hotels
• Mingling with the Pathumthani prison chain gang guys in Bangkok
• Another accommodation report about the Seashell Village Resort in Chanthaburi
• A grass-weaving area where some of your souvenirs may have originated
• Two posts about a night festival, raising funds for a new wat (here and here)
• My visit with a former bar boy at his "retirement home"
• Two posts about the large hillside temple Wat Khao Sukim (here and here)
• One post about pushing your comfort zones while traveling
• An observation about being a boorish tourist that I'm told one boor took offense to
• A short piece about Kuk Khi Kai, aka the "bird shit" prison in Chataburi
• Shrimp farming in Chantaburi
• Oyster farming in Chantaburi
• Visiting and walking along Laem Sing Beach
• Walking through Kung Krabaen Bay Nature Preserve and mangrove forest
• Two posts about the Lady Bars on Walking Street (here and here)
• ... and a look at the Tamnanpar Forest Restaurant and Resort on our way back to Bangkok after the long weekend away.

A friend said one time noted how I seem to return home more tired out than when I left on vacation, and they might be right.  This next time I'm hoping for more "down" time: more reading, more naps, more time in the shade beneath an umbrella.  We shall see.

The Ladies And Clubs Of Walking Street, Pt. 2

Visit my club! ...  No, mine! ... No, MINE!

Yesterday's post was quite a step off the ordinary path for me, but so it goes. As a rule, I very rarely find myself in a club where the admired on stage are of the female persuasion - or close to it - as it's not where I'd usually choose to spend an evening, but an open mind helps if you're willing to see something more than the one-knee shuffle so common in the gay clubs.

Hookah bars are becoming
more common in some areas
of Pattaya

Mind you, I don't have anything against straight people as long as they act gay in public, to cite the old joke. No offense to reader Paul who'd asked the "where can I go to meet some ladies on vacation" question, either, but I felt a bit out of my league as far as specifics go.

I suppose from what I've been told that the system works much the same as far as bar fines (off fees), worker drinks and tips in the club, etc. goes in a females-for-hire club as it does in a males-for-hire club, other than I'm told that sometimes the drinks can be a bit cheaper. Supply and demand at work there, most likely; straight clubs outnumber gay ones by at least 10 to 1, I'd guess off the top of my head.  Probably by more. I'd also put a substantial bet on the likelihood that the amount of "tea money" regularly paid to get those in charge to look the other way is higher... wink-wink, nudge nudge.

It's more than a dime a dance, but company is available.

There are many other places to drink, dance, socialize and meet company for a short or longer period in Pattaya, just as there are in Bangkok.  Beach Road is dotted with open-fronted lady bars, as are many of the side streets up towards Second Road and Third Road - all very lively places.

Lucifer's either listing some or bowing a welcome to his disco on Walking Street

Walking street was mentioned as the example because (A) it's a fairly wide open - and perhaps safer - area (B) it's usually full of other tourists, so you're not alone in an unfamiliar place, and (C) because there are plenty of other places to look through, shop or dine if you tire of The Hunt or need time to get up some courage before locking and loading. Those who enjoy a more concentrated selection of ladies and bars might try something along the lines of Soi 8 off of Beach Road, but watch your wallets.

So, until I'm there again and follow through on a promise to myself to gather more stories from the women than the men, this will have to suffice.

Hope you enjoy the pictures... and your weekend.

Khaen Pipe Busking - Street Performing

If you visit the Chatuchak weekend market you're bound to run into people playing on the walkways for spare change, or busking to those of you in the UK. The two boys above were working as a team one late morning, standing in the already hot sun and going at it almost non-stop.

Another boy performing at
Chatuchak one morning

Being a musical skill passed along from one generation to the next he music played isn't always high quality, but if you appreciate free-form jazz you're likely of a mind to enjoy the somewhat repetitive, trance-like melodies they perform. What I mean is, the age of the performer isn't necessarily an indicator of the level of authenticity, and I'm not an expert so this kid might qualify as a very good player - who knows?

The variety of melody and tones used has been better with some older players I've heard - I can say that much.

The instrument the boy in the red shirt in the clip is playing is called a khaen; also spelled "kaen" and "khen", transliteration being the imperfect process it often is. There is also a close relative in the same family known as the khene; nearly identical, but tuned to a different (pentatonic) scale.

The khaen is a set of bamboo pipes, carefully cut to different lengths to produce different notes, and I say carefully because unlike a stringed instrument it's nearly impossible to "tune" it once the pipe is cut. There are five basic lai, or modes, of tuning for the khaen. This is beyond my musical knowledge, so forgive me for quoting a bit here from Wikipedia to explain them to those who'll understand:

"The khaen has five different lai, or modes: Lai Yai (A C D E G), Lai Noi (D F G A C), Lai Soutsanaen (G A C D E), Lai Po Sai (C D F G A), and Lai Soi (D E G A B). Lai Po Sai is considered to be the oldest of the Lai Khaen and Lai Soutsanaen the 'Father of the Lai Khaen.' "

More common in the Isaan region of Thaland, it's also a common woodwind used in the music of Laos and Cambodia.

I confess, when I hear this at an outdoor restaurant as part of the entertainment it's difficult to stay seated and not join in with the others who get up to dance. Thankfully, decency usually keeps me seated.

Trip Report: Pt. 21A: Wat Carnival / Fundraiser 2

A monk shared thoughts and bestowed blessings on the assembled, using a long bamboo brush he would dip in water

[This is part 21A of a series that may or may not ever find its way to a proper conclusion. It has to do with my latest trip to Thailand, and the people, places and things I encountered along the way. You can find the rest of the series by clicking here on Trip Reports.]

As you saw yesterday, the work-in-progress temple area along Laem Sing Beach was holding a fundraising festival a few of the nights I was staying nearby at the Seashell Village Resort. Since I don't know the name of it I'm just going to call it the Laem Sing temple. If anyone can provide more of a name than that I'll be more than happy to amend the post.

Boys playing with radio controlled cars at the festival

This monk spoke some English
and was kind enough to spend
some time visiting with me

Both evenings I spent there were fun, even if I did get a little tired of standing to watch the entertainment up on stage after having already walked around sightseeing most of the day.

I confess that part of my time sitting and listening to the monks speaking wasn't entirely driven by a desire for enlightenment - after all, I don't understand much Thai - but it did provide some meditation time; something I'd been shy on for a few days.

Since I didn't understand much of what was being spoken I just tuned it down and spent the time lost within my own thoughts, listening to people nearby having fun and the laughter of the children playing, and frankly that and of itself was as much of a blessing as the water sprinkled on me by the monk that evening.

After my blessing that evening I noticed a somewhat handsome 30-something monk apparently waiting for me at the edge of the group, on my way to the games and food area.  As one of the faith does I offered a high, respectful wai to him, but as he got closer I noticed the unmistakable scent of some form of whiskey on his breath. While I tried to back up he kept moving towards me so it wasn't easy to keep at arm's length.  Then he began to speak, in very limited English, and his speech left no doubt that he'd been celebrating something. [Note: this was NOT the kind monk pictured to the upper left here].

The faithful gather at the festival

I don't mean to sound surprised about a human being acting human, and monks - although they are living life in an honorable service - are human beings. My Thai friend was within reach so I looked to him for his reaction. The monk reached for my arm and held it, pulling me gently towards the area where the new building would be built, off in the direction of the monk's residence.

Worshipers participating in a ceremony

My friend translated for me that my company back off somewhere more private was being requested, but while it was flattering I smiled and shook my head at the monk to indicate "no, thank you." He let go, but he followed us around for a little while afterwards. It's hands down the oddest thing I've ever had happen to me on temple grounds.

The rest of the festival was all I'd hoped it would be, and more.  Children of all ages were playing different games and watching the singers and dancers on the stage to one side of the large, open area.

What you catch you can keep... but it takes some quick reflexes!

In addition to the "fishing" game above, there was a ball toss, a long counter lined with people throwing darts at a wall of balloons, radio controlled cars to race and several other games of skill and chance. The fish game the boys are playing above cost 10 baht.  For that, you were given a cup and a small "net" - a wire circle covered with an extremely thin layer of what I took to be some sort of tissue. The tissue quickly became too week to hold a fish, so you had to move fast to catch even a single one.  I handed the man running it two 20 baht notes and pointed to the two above, giving me time enough to get a picture, but not much more than that.

The stage was a hive of activity. Group after group were introduced and took the stage. Most appeared to be amateur acts; perhaps there was a better-known act of sorts after we'd left, but what I saw were more or less just regular folks you'd see at any small town show.

The little kids were the most fun to watch, because it seemed as if they were having the most fun in the spotlight. I usually don't care for heavy makeup on little girls - like the ones below - but it was difficult not to smile along with them as they giggled while attempting to do their rather graceful routines. 

There were snacks a-plenty, and fireworks, to boot.  In fact, the fireworks were set off right in the middle of things and not off in a separate area as they'd be done here at home.  We were close enough that it made me jump when they started in with them, and, as you can see, they weren't all that securely grounded!

Some of the mortars launched one night

Popcorn for sale at one booth - there were three popcorn booths

They were both nice evenings, and it was even nicer to be welcomed in by the locals for the event.  As usual, a few wanted to come up and say hello to practice their English, and that was an added bonus.  If you ever see an event such as this, I encourage you to stop and wander through. 

Deuan Pen (Full Moon) - A Song Everyone Knows

The song itself begins at 2:25 in the clip

Some time back I'd posted a clips of Thai TV commercials for Thai insurance, and one featured handicapped children singing "Que Sera, Sera (Whatever will be, will be)".  After asking some Thai friends I'd learned that the 1956 song originally sung by Doris Day in the Hitchcock movie "The Man Who Knew Too Much" was a song many Thai know.

It certainly fits in with the overall mai pen rai attitude most Thai strive for, but it did surprise me to hear a song quite so old still being familiar. It's a good example of a song that's lived on and become recognizable to people in many different places; one example being the regular singing of the song at British football games.

Another song that strikes an even more resounding note in the hearts of many Thai is "Deuan Pen", or Full Moon. It's a song about longing to be "back home"; something we've probably all been able to identify with at one time or another in our lives.

While life in the country isn't as profitable or glamorous as some might guess city life to be it is where many Thai were born and raised - and where their families and homes often remain, waiting for them to return. If you ever notice the song being played or sung while in a crowd, look around you. Along with many joining in to sing along you'll see longing and wistful looks on plenty of faces, and the occasional tear being wiped away.

My favorite version is an instrumental by Saksit Vejsupaporn, a somewhat teeny-bopper singer/pianist who goes by the name of ToR+.  I couldn't find a YouTube clip of him doing it, but I did find one of popular Thai singer Carabao performing it live at a large event, with a spoken introduction by Nawarat Pongpaiboon, the man accompanying him on the khlui (flute).

The lyrics - as translated by thai-language.com - are below:

ดือนเพ็ญ Deuan Penh (The Full Moon)

เดือน เพ็ญ สวย เย็น เห็น อร่าม
deuan pen sŭay yen hĕn à-ràam
The full moon is beautiful and cool and appears to glow

นภา แจ่ม นวล ดู งาม
ná-paa jàem nuan doo ngaam
The sky is bright and beautiful

เย็น ชื่น หนอ ยาม เมื่อ ลม พัด มา
yen chêun nŏr yaam mêua lom pát maa
When the breeze blows the air is cool and pleasant

แสงจันทร์ นวล ชวน ใจ ข้า · ...
săeng jan nuan chuan jai kâa · . . .
The light of the moon causes me . . .

คิด · ถึง ถิ่นที่ จาก มา
kít · tĕung tìn têe jàak maa
. . . to reminisce about the place from whence I come

คิดถึง ท้อง นา บ้าน เรือน ที่เคย เนาว์
kít tĕung tóng naa bâan reuan têe koie nao
. . . [and] to recall the fields and homes where I use to dwell

เรไร ร้อง ดัง ฟัง ว่า · เสียง เจ้า ที่ คร่ำครวญหา
ray-rai róng dang fang wâa · sĭang jâo têe krâm-kruan-hăa
The clamor of the chirping crickets cries out to me in lament

ลม เอ๋ย ช่วย พา กระซิบ ข้าง กาย
lom ŏie chûay paa grà-síp kâang gaai
Oh, breeze, please bring the news [about home] to me . . .

ข้า ยัง คอยอยู่ · ไม่ หน่าย
kâa yang koi yòo · mâi nàai
. . . I am waiting patiently

ไม่ · เลือน ห่าง จาก เคลื่อน คลาย
mâi · leuan hàang jàak klêuan klaai
[My heart] will not stray from [my] home.

คิดถึง มิ วาย เมื่อ เรา จากกัน
kít tĕung mí waai mêua rao jàak gan
I will always remember when we parted

กองไฟ · สุม ควาย ตาม คอก · คง ยัง ไม่ มอด ดับ ดอก
gong fai · sŭm kwaai dtaam kôk · kong yang mâi môt dàp dòk
I hope the fires which warm our buffalo haven't yet died out

จันทร์ เอ๋ย ช่วย · บอก ให้ ลม ช่วย เป่า
jan ŏie chûay · bòk hâi lom chûay bpào
Oh, moon, please tell the wind to blow . . .

สุมไฟ ให้ แรง เข้า · พัด ไล่ ความเยือกเย็น หนาว
sŭm fai hâi raeng kâo · pát lâi kwaam yêuak yen năao
. . . harder [to keep the fires lit]; blow to chase away the chill

ให้ พี่ น้อง เรา นอนหลับ อุ่นสบาย
hâi pêe nóng rao non làp ùn sà-baai
. . . to let our people sleep in comfort

ลม เอ ย ช่วย เป็น สื่อ ให้ · นำ รัก จาก ห้วง ดวง ใจ · ของ ข้า นี้ ไป
lom ay yor chûay bpen sèu hâi · nam rák jàak hûang duang jai · kŏng kâa née bpai
Oh, wind, please help take a message of my heart’s love

บอก เขา น้ำ นา
bòk kăo náam naa
. . . to the hills, fields, and rivers [of my home]

ให้ เมือง ไทย รู้ว่า
hâi meuang tai róo wâa
To let Thailand know that . . .

ไม่ นาน ลูก ที่ จาก ลา · จะ ไป ซบ หน้า กับ อก แม่ เอ ย
mâi naan lôok têe jàak laa · jà bpai sóp nâa gàp òk mâe ay yor
. . . soon your son who has been away will come [home and] nestle once more at his mother’s breast

Mach Schau: More Crocodile Show Video Clips

In yesterday's post I mentioned the inherent danger of dealing with crocodiles on turf that quite clearly belongs more to them than the human performers, which includes slipping and falling or allowing your attention to wander while within striking distance, as it's a safe bet the crocodiles rarely lose sight of the snacks walking around them.

Where did I get the term "mach schau"? It's from my youthful Beatles fan days, and it's stuck with me.  When they were playing 12+ hour shifts in Germany before hitting it big with "yeah, yeah, yeah" the audience would continue to push them for more, more, more by shouting mach schau (more show) at them.  There.  Now aren't you glad you asked?  Here today are two more clips of the crocodile show.

The first clip shows a crocodile wrestler attempting repeatedly to single out the specific crocodile he wants up on the island-like stage to participate in the next part of the show. In this instance I believe it was the "money shot" portion, where the guys place money thrown by the audience into the crocodile's mouth and then retrieve it with their hands.

The crocodile wasn't in the mood, had a headache or for whatever reason didn't want to play, and the wrestler had a bit of a time getting it out of the water.  At one point the crocodile turns and snaps, and by how fast it moved I suspect falling is a legitimate worry for the wrestlers.

In the clip yesterday you saw the thinner of the two trying to get the other to stick their head into the reptile's mouth.  The clip below is what happened afterwards.  As you'll see, after giving a wai more of prayer than respect - although I'm sure that was part of it - the young man hesitates and makes a false start but eventually puts the front half of his head within the biting radius of the crocodile, to the shouts of the announcer over the loudspeaker and the blare of the old "Hawaii 5-0" theme - both of which I could have done without if I was putting my face on the line, so to speak.



Tomorrow you'll see more of the animals and grounds as we wrap up this trip to the Crocodile Farm.

Showtime: Offering A Crocodile A Little Head

A young man with more courage than good sense, in my opinion

The Samut Prakarn Crocodile Farm and Zoo runs a live show every 60 minutes from 09:30 in the morning through the afternoon, the last one being at 20:30, I believe. You'll find an overview about the park by clicking the link above. I've been there a few times, and since it's usually been for only part of a day I've yet to see all of the place because I tend to get drawn into the small stadium where they do this particular show.

There's always a minor concern as to how animals are handled for circuses and shows such as this, but in this instance there's a chance for the reptiles to get revenge - although in truth it's most likely just natural instinctive reaction on their part. Call it the gruesome streak in me - and maybe that's true - but being the timid soul I am personally makes the vicarious thrill of possible danger a compelling draw.  Judging from the crowds the show draws I'm surrounded by plenty of company, I've noticed.

While waiting for a show one afternoon I heard a woman roar in what I guess she thought was the noise a crocodile makes when it's about to attack, and turned to see her teasing her little boy by "roaring" and clamping her hands at him, croc-style.  At first he laughed, but after taking a closer look at the size of the beasts now being roused below by a staff member his expression sobered up and she stopped.

The woman in the lower left makes a mock attack on her son

The show begins with a trumpeting musical fanfare of some sort - the Star Wars and Raiders of the Lost Ark themes were really big for a while - punctuated by a man doing his best to whip up the crowd's enthusiasm via loudspeakers around the stadium. I'd suggest not sitting too close to one as they're fairly loud. There's usually some English involved, but most of the audience is Thai so don't expect a lot of details offered in your native tongue, if any.

Maneuvering before the show

Sometimes there's a show girl along to sweeten the pot for some watching, making exaggerated gestures with her arms like a woman showing what's behind Door Number One on a game show, but once the show starts most of the audience is paying more attention to the two men entering the area at ground level, onto an island raised perhaps a foot above the water level of the pond around it. After offering a wai of greeting to the audience as the announcer introduces them to the applause of the crowd they wade out into the pond to about calf-level and begin splashing water up onto the island stage with their hands and arms, making it not only easier to move the crocodiles around, but also for the comfort of said reptilian guests. There are also a few spray holes in the surface of the island that are turned on and off during the performance to help do the same thing.

While one is slicking up the performance area the other is scouting around for the specimens they plan to use for different parts of the show. I'm told familiarity is key for some of the tricks involved, and if you're putting yourself in grave danger predictability is probably the wiser path to choose, I suppose. These creatures have jaws with a clamping pressure of 5,000 pounds per square inch (an alligator can only manage 2,000, but I don't recommend playing with them, either).  Most of you are familiar with Rottweiler and "pit bull" dog attacks via the news; they ring in around 400Lb/Sq inch, and a human can manage slightly over 100Lb/Sq inch - just as points of reference.

At the shows I've attended they start out small and work their way up.  Maneuvering the creatures is usually done by the tail.  While the muscles of their tails closer to the body are quite powerful for swimming and striking if the body is grounded it can't pull its body around by the end of it, so pulling it backwards is the easiest - and safest - way of moving the crocodiles around.

Losing his grip on the tail a performer lands hard during a show

There's one exception to that, though, and that's if you fly backwards and end up on your back, knocking your head on the cement and losing your focus while you try to get up with your head spinning.  The crocodile can get turned around pretty quickly, and I once saw a performer nearly end his career after a near-disastrous slip and fall after losing his grip on the tail. There isn't room for one of these to get up to speed in this enclosed area, but they can go as fast on land as around seven miles per hour (10Km/hr), and while I can't speak for you that's faster than I normally move.

The first "tricks" are usually just done with a stick, such as the one held by the guy in the photo below, seeing who's reflexes are best as the guy puts the stick into the crocodile's open jaws.  As you can see by the shredded end of the stick it's somewhat of a toss-up as to who's won the most rounds.

The ante is upped when one of the performers gets a crocodile to open its mouth, kneels before it and then "charms" it with light strokes with a stick on the top side of the snout from eyes to nostrils a few times before sticking his hand and/or forearm into the open mouth. Things almost always go according to plan, and the crowd throws money down onto the island to tip the guys - usually currency folded up around a coin to give it enough heft to carry it the distance down from the stands. They pick it up to get it out of the way, thank the audience and stash it away.

Upping the ante a bit further they then proceed to do a similar stunt while putting their heads between the open, toothy jaws. Below is a clip of the performers putting on a show as one tried to get another to put his head into the crocodile's mouth.



Eventually they make it, as the guy up top today proves. If you think about it for a moment, this is an extremely nervy move.  Remember, while they have limited side-to-side movement to their "necks" and very little muscle power to open their mouths there's that bone-crushing power to snap them shut. I've taken pictures where the performer's expression is intended to be a smile but indicates a look closer to "get me the hell OUT of here!"   Here's another still shot from that same show:

They play to both sides of the arena, so for those of you who prefer an alternate view here's one from the back side:

Here you can see how far into the jaws this guy's head is

The tips come raining down on the guys after these tricks, and you'd think they'd leave well enough alone and quit while they were ahead, but no... they scoop up the money, drag in another scaled participant and, after getting it to hold it's mouth open they put some of the money into it, reaching not just inside and picking up the bills and coins from the crocodile's (immovable) tongue, but deeper down past its palatal flap - the stiff tissue that allows it to keep water out and breath through its nostrils - and that puts them far enough in that if the beast decides to clamp down on their forearm there's really nothing they can do to escape.

A crocodile's natural instinct when it's chomped down on something is to do what's known as a "death roll", which disorients their prey and allows them to drag it underwater where they can break it's bones and often drown it. I know there are clips of unfortunate performers being snapped down on out there on the web, but while I'll joke about such things with friends it's nothing I'd care to watch myself, so you're on your own finding them.

I'd say if you have an opportunity to see one of these shows, do it.  Maybe stick around and see it twice. I usually do.

With effort, a performer hoists up one of his fellow performers

Bangkok Art And Cultural Centre Exhibits

Yesterday's post about the BACC (the Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre) showed you the front and what some of the insides look like.  Today you'll see some of the exhibits that were on display one time when I had my camera and the presence of mind to take pictures.

One grouping featured penguins, a bird almost unheard of in Thailand other than in a zoo. With a second computerized movie featuring them just out a couple of weeks I'd guess it might be a nice exhibit to have there now, but these were there a couple of years ago.

The panels exhibit - done with input from many different people - filled a large area, and depicted a wide variety of topics.  Since the museum is a very public place I doubt any of them were directly disrespectful or in violation of Thai law, but there were definitely protest statements among them; some featured familiar faces adorned with a Hitler-type mustache and swastikas.  Not being able to read Thai I'm going to err on the side of caution - or cowardice, depending on your level of generosity today.

The second panel below reflected some political unrest, but in light of the flooding recently it's timely now, too.

If you or someone you know are the artists represented here today and would like credit or the images of your work taken down simply email me at the address to the right and I'll be happy to comply.  Please let me know something to identify your ownership.

The building itself is a work of art. If you didn't see the examples yesterday, take a look.

The Bangkok Art And Cultural Centre

The Bangkok Art and Cultural Centre from a spot by the National Stadium BTS station. It's linked to by walkway to the 3rd floor entrance

Sitting in the midst of as frantic a commercial shopping area a tourist is ever likely to visit in Bangkok is a spot where you can escape both the crowds and the heat of the day: the Bangkok Art and Cultural Center, located across from the MBK and Siam Discovery shopping malls at the large Pathumwan intersection.

It's open every day but Monday from 10:00am to 9:00pm and - other than the occasional special event or concert - admission and all of the exhibits are free. I owe a good friend a tip of the hat for this one, as he was the first person I knew to talk about it. I've been there a few different trips, and since the exhibits are displayed on a rotating basis there's always a lot to see.

With its simple artistic rounded front and gracefully curved interior that reminded me somewhat of the Guggenheim museum in New York City it looked a little out of place amid the rest of the massive commercial gorillas that surround (and loom over) it, but as I paused to gaze out of the windows while wandering the halls there that seemed like a good thing, really; it reminded me of the calm you hear about that occurs in the eye of a hurricane, where all around you is raging out of control and yet you're able to stand unaffected.

A different view of the "MBK Intersection" from the June 18th post last year

I don't remember how many levels there are to explore at the center (seven, I think - and pardon my dropping back to the Western spelling) but there's plenty of exhibit space.  At least one level had spaces partitioned by glass walls to separate the works but still allow an open and spacious feel to the area, and there were a couple of larger exhibit halls, too.

Looking down the open central area from a higher floor

As I'd usually hope a museum or gallery to be, it was quiet throughout.  No piped music or informational recorded loops going to distract from the tranquility of the place.  There are a number of spots to sit and discuss the works, and people were sitting and talking quietly among themselves.  One man appeared to be deep in thought - or perhaps just waiting for someone he'd arrived with - but he was seated in the same chair the entire time I was visiting one afternoon. In fact, I've just noticed - if you look closely to the left in the panorama shot above you can see him, too.

The center is easy to get to, as well.  As I mentioned above it's right at the National Stadium BTS station, but it's also accessable by bus (their web site says you can use the 15, 16, 21, 25, 29, 34, 36, 40, 47, 48, 50, 54, 73, 79, 93, 141, 159, 204 and the air-con 508 lines) and if you're a canal boat traveler you can get off at the Sapan Hua-Chang landing and be about a football field away from the front doors.

If you've been shopping in the malls in Bangkok you're likely to have seen the buildings, but maybe never gone in. I wouldn't want to drag a double handful of shopping bags along with me, but I highly recommend you make a stop there to visit some time. It's a fantastic way to miss the heat of mid-day. Go shopping afterwards.

Next time: pictures of some of the exhibits.

BACC: Bangkok Arts and Cultural Center

More "Ladies" Of Calypso Cabaret

Although I can appreciate the illusion of a well done drag show - called cabaret in Thailand - I'm not the big fan of it many evidently are; the first "Ladies" of Calypso Cabaret post was popular with a lot of visitors here, and one I still receive requests on, asking if there are any more cabaret images.

The short answer is yes, and here are a half dozen or so more photos from the Calypso show. More information about seating, times, location and other details are available in Part 1.

Part of an extended show piece

This is about as risque as the shows at Calypso get

This same young man does a credible impression of Tina Turner, as I recall

Knowing their audience, there's a performance aimed specifically at the Korean, Japanese and Chinese tourists who attend the shows