One small portion of the Million Year Stone Park gardens show in this panorama shot
[This is part 11 of a series that may or may not ever find its way to a proper conclusion. It has to do with my latest trip to Thailand, and the people, places and things I encountered along the way. You can find the rest of the series by clicking here on Trip Reports.]
The park mascot. Tourist photo opportunity? You bet!
One of the main reasons I've returned to Thailand time and again are the students I've been fortunate to be able to help build a better future through the Pattaya Street Kids Support Project. The reasons behind that have already been covered here and here, but the most rewarding part for me is having the opportunity to actually see the kids and take them along for a day otherwise out of their financial reach; a reward for working hard at school, so to speak.
Most of the time I'm at a complete loss as to what someone that much younger than myself would find entertaining on an outing like that, but naturally the kids themselves aren't. They've heard of places from schoolmates, friends and television and often have an idea of what they'd like to do on "their" day, although sometimes they're self-conscious about asking for what to them is a large extravagance.
Camels, zebras, giant catfish and peacocks are just a few of the hundreds of creatures to see around the park
The boys all loved feeding the crocodiles from above
This trip three of the kids asked if they could go to the Million Year Stone Park and Crocodile Farm, and one wanted to see the Ripley's Believe It Or Not museum in the Royal Plaza Garden Mall.
I confess that seeing the Ripley complex (it dominates a huge portion of the top floor) once was OK, five years ago, but it's not anywhere on my list today. Nevertheless, it wasn't my day, so I put on on a smile and went along, enjoying seeing others enjoying it - so it was still one of those "win-win" situations. I'll address Ripley's another time soon. You've been warned.
The Million Year Stone Park is a fairly short ride from Pattaya - maybe 20 minutes or so - and covers a lot of ground: 70 acres, according to their web site. It's a mix of gardens, zoo, showplaces, rock formations and it can be brutally hot in the mid-day sun. There are places to eat and plenty of places for souvenirs. Admission ran me about $30 for three Thai and one Big Pink Guy.
While busloads of tourists are undoubtedly the bread and butter of the place, it's also a spot for the Thai; much like a theme park would be here in the USA. I'd say the day I was there the mix was 75% Thai and 25% foreigners.
Yes, there are hundreds of these there. Nothing like at the Samut Prakan farm near Bangkok, but still plenty
The kids have all grown older over the years, naturally, and now - mid-teens - the boys were much more interested in feeding raw chicken to the crocodiles below them with a string on a pole or sit within easy mauling distance of a tiger to have their picture taken than they were some years back. What is it about our teenage years that gives us that unreasonable feeling of invincibility, anyway?
Whether the tiger's been slightly sedated or not, it doesn't seem like a good idea to sit there like this kid did.
While they'd have covered their eyes in the past, this time the guys leaned forward with smiles on their faces when the crocodile handler did what are supposed to be the riskier moves. Vicarious thrills, I suppose. I watched, too.
Looking for his keys, maybe...
The park just passed its 20th anniversary, having opened in February of 1992. Touristy? Absolutely - but what's wrong with that? Ask a Thai friend along with you. If they haven't been there themselves already I'll wager they'd have fun.
There are plenty of things to see and do in addition to the crocodile show at the Samut Prakarn (also spelled Prakan) Crocodile Farm and Zoo just on the outskirts of Bangkok - more than a mixed group or family could really do in a day, and there's something for those of all ages. While I've seen small children at the crocodile shows I know they're not for everybody, but there are plenty of other options.
Dinosaur statues in one area - there are more than just these two
In addition to the crocodile wrestling shows there's an elephant show going on every 60 minutes, also, featuring a few pachyderms going through the routines you'd see at most any elephant show: playing soccer, twirling a hoop and similar tricks that's definitely appropriate for all ages. There's also a fairly good sized playground, an informative museum, the paddle boats to ride around on and a train you can ride all around the park.
I havent got photos of the limited zoo area, but there are a dozen or so types of animals in pens around the perimeter.
You can eat in several different spots, from walk-away snacks to sit down meals, and since this is a hatchery and farm, there are many many places to shop for crocodile goods ranging from simple trinkets and souvenirs to pricey accessory items.
As you'd also see at many theme parks there are photo opportunities galore, from silly to daring - such as crouching down next to one of the larger show crocodiles out on the "show" island, or beside a large tiger. Granted, these particular specimens may well be slightly sedated for safety's sake (at least, that's what I told myself when I put myself withing striking range) but still...
Pose next to this fine specimen for a photo, ready to pick up in a few minutes
The biggest draw, though, are the crocodiles themselves, and as was mentioned in the introductory post about the place they claim to have 100,000 of them. Many of the pens are open and allow you to get as close to them as anyone needs to be. There are a few examples below.
"Dog pile," crocodile style
Here's one I bet you didn't know: crocodiles hold their mouths open to regulate their temperature.
The line from the movie "Forrest Gump" was "Stupid is as stupid does," and evidently there are stupid people all around the globe, as illustrated by the multi-language signs around the park's enclosures:
I put two photos together to show "before" and "after" when raw chicken is dropped from the elevated walkways
Battling for the snacks - taken from the elevated walkway
That's about all I have for you on the place this round. If there's interest I'll run another set of photos from some other shows I've attended there sometime in the future. I hope some day you can visit there yourself.
In yesterday's post I mentioned the inherent danger of dealing with crocodiles on turf that quite clearly belongs more to them than the human performers, which includes slipping and falling or allowing your attention to wander while within striking distance, as it's a safe bet the crocodiles rarely lose sight of the snacks walking around them.
Where did I get the term "mach schau"? It's from my youthful Beatles fan days, and it's stuck with me. When they were playing 12+ hour shifts in Germany before hitting it big with "yeah, yeah, yeah" the audience would continue to push them for more, more, more by shouting mach schau (more show) at them. There. Now aren't you glad you asked? Here today are two more clips of the crocodile show.
The first clip shows a crocodile wrestler attempting repeatedly to single out the specific crocodile he wants up on the island-like stage to participate in the next part of the show. In this instance I believe it was the "money shot" portion, where the guys place money thrown by the audience into the crocodile's mouth and then retrieve it with their hands.
The crocodile wasn't in the mood, had a headache or for whatever reason didn't want to play, and the wrestler had a bit of a time getting it out of the water. At one point the crocodile turns and snaps, and by how fast it moved I suspect falling is a legitimate worry for the wrestlers.
In the clip yesterday you saw the thinner of the two trying to get the other to stick their head into the reptile's mouth. The clip below is what happened afterwards. As you'll see, after giving a wai more of prayer than respect - although I'm sure that was part of it - the young man hesitates and makes a false start but eventually puts the front half of his head within the biting radius of the crocodile, to the shouts of the announcer over the loudspeaker and the blare of the old "Hawaii 5-0" theme - both of which I could have done without if I was putting my face on the line, so to speak.
Tomorrow you'll see more of the animals and grounds as we wrap up this trip to the Crocodile Farm.
A young man with more courage than good sense, in my opinion
The Samut Prakarn Crocodile Farm and Zoo runs a live show every 60 minutes from 09:30 in the morning through the afternoon, the last one being at 20:30, I believe. You'll find an overview about the park by clicking the link above. I've been there a few times, and since it's usually been for only part of a day I've yet to see all of the place because I tend to get drawn into the small stadium where they do this particular show.
There's always a minor concern as to how animals are handled for circuses and shows such as this, but in this instance there's a chance for the reptiles to get revenge - although in truth it's most likely just natural instinctive reaction on their part. Call it the gruesome streak in me - and maybe that's true - but being the timid soul I am personally makes the vicarious thrill of possible danger a compelling draw. Judging from the crowds the show draws I'm surrounded by plenty of company, I've noticed.
While waiting for a show one afternoon I heard a woman roar in what I guess she thought was the noise a crocodile makes when it's about to attack, and turned to see her teasing her little boy by "roaring" and clamping her hands at him, croc-style. At first he laughed, but after taking a closer look at the size of the beasts now being roused below by a staff member his expression sobered up and she stopped.
The woman in the lower left makes a mock attack on her son
The show begins with a trumpeting musical fanfare of some sort - the Star Wars and Raiders of the Lost Ark themes were really big for a while - punctuated by a man doing his best to whip up the crowd's enthusiasm via loudspeakers around the stadium. I'd suggest not sitting too close to one as they're fairly loud. There's usually some English involved, but most of the audience is Thai so don't expect a lot of details offered in your native tongue, if any.
Maneuvering before the show
Sometimes there's a show girl along to sweeten the pot for some watching, making exaggerated gestures with her arms like a woman showing what's behind Door Number One on a game show, but once the show starts most of the audience is paying more attention to the two men entering the area at ground level, onto an island raised perhaps a foot above the water level of the pond around it. After offering a wai of greeting to the audience as the announcer introduces them to the applause of the crowd they wade out into the pond to about calf-level and begin splashing water up onto the island stage with their hands and arms, making it not only easier to move the crocodiles around, but also for the comfort of said reptilian guests. There are also a few spray holes in the surface of the island that are turned on and off during the performance to help do the same thing.
While one is slicking up the performance area the other is scouting around for the specimens they plan to use for different parts of the show. I'm told familiarity is key for some of the tricks involved, and if you're putting yourself in grave danger predictability is probably the wiser path to choose, I suppose. These creatures have jaws with a clamping pressure of 5,000 pounds per square inch (an alligator can only manage 2,000, but I don't recommend playing with them, either). Most of you are familiar with Rottweiler and "pit bull" dog attacks via the news; they ring in around 400Lb/Sq inch, and a human can manage slightly over 100Lb/Sq inch - just as points of reference.
At the shows I've attended they start out small and work their way up. Maneuvering the creatures is usually done by the tail. While the muscles of their tails closer to the body are quite powerful for swimming and striking if the body is grounded it can't pull its body around by the end of it, so pulling it backwards is the easiest - and safest - way of moving the crocodiles around.
Losing his grip on the tail a performer lands hard during a show
There's one exception to that, though, and that's if you fly backwards and end up on your back, knocking your head on the cement and losing your focus while you try to get up with your head spinning. The crocodile can get turned around pretty quickly, and I once saw a performer nearly end his career after a near-disastrous slip and fall after losing his grip on the tail. There isn't room for one of these to get up to speed in this enclosed area, but they can go as fast on land as around seven miles per hour (10Km/hr), and while I can't speak for you that's faster than I normally move.
The first "tricks" are usually just done with a stick, such as the one held by the guy in the photo below, seeing who's reflexes are best as the guy puts the stick into the crocodile's open jaws. As you can see by the shredded end of the stick it's somewhat of a toss-up as to who's won the most rounds.
The ante is upped when one of the performers gets a crocodile to open its mouth, kneels before it and then "charms" it with light strokes with a stick on the top side of the snout from eyes to nostrils a few times before sticking his hand and/or forearm into the open mouth. Things almost always go according to plan, and the crowd throws money down onto the island to tip the guys - usually currency folded up around a coin to give it enough heft to carry it the distance down from the stands. They pick it up to get it out of the way, thank the audience and stash it away.
Upping the ante a bit further they then proceed to do a similar stunt while putting their heads between the open, toothy jaws. Below is a clip of the performers putting on a show as one tried to get another to put his head into the crocodile's mouth.
Eventually they make it, as the guy up top today proves. If you think about it for a moment, this is an extremely nervy move. Remember, while they have limited side-to-side movement to their "necks" and very little muscle power to open their mouths there's that bone-crushing power to snap them shut. I've taken pictures where the performer's expression is intended to be a smile but indicates a look closer to "get me the hell OUT of here!" Here's another still shot from that same show:
They play to both sides of the arena, so for those of you who prefer an alternate view here's one from the back side:
Here you can see how far into the jaws this guy's head is
The tips come raining down on the guys after these tricks, and you'd think they'd leave well enough alone and quit while they were ahead, but no... they scoop up the money, drag in another scaled participant and, after getting it to hold it's mouth open they put some of the money into it, reaching not just inside and picking up the bills and coins from the crocodile's (immovable) tongue, but deeper down past its palatal flap - the stiff tissue that allows it to keep water out and breath through its nostrils - and that puts them far enough in that if the beast decides to clamp down on their forearm there's really nothing they can do to escape.
A crocodile's natural instinct when it's chomped down on something is to do what's known as a "death roll", which disorients their prey and allows them to drag it underwater where they can break it's bones and often drown it. I know there are clips of unfortunate performers being snapped down on out there on the web, but while I'll joke about such things with friends it's nothing I'd care to watch myself, so you're on your own finding them.
I'd say if you have an opportunity to see one of these shows, do it. Maybe stick around and see it twice. I usually do.
With effort, a performer hoists up one of his fellow performers
There was a comment left yesterday asking whether the Samut Prakarn farm was open after the flooding in October and November. The short answer is "I don't know", but after doing some research this morning it doesn't appear as though they had a problem during the flooding and I'm guessing they're open now. My suggestion would be to call their numbers, though: 02-2703-4891-5 or 02-2703-5144-8
During the floods a couple of months ago there were several stories about widespread crocodile and venomous snake problems in Bangkok, and although I'd read them I figured they were more tabloid journalism than accurate news; you know what I mean - that "Crocodile eats three in Bangkok!" kind of reporting that turns out to be one crocodile eating three chickens on a small farm.
Image from the internet
There are estimated to be 3,000+ crocodile farms in Thailand, but most of those are small independent operations more concerned with trapping and re-selling the creatures than they are viewing places. As I understand it those places weren't so much the problem as was the rising and Southbound flood waters themselves that carried the animals from the wilds to habituated areas, but that's unfounded speculation and there probably were escapees from the smaller places.
Monitor lizards are sometimes reported as crocodiles, too, and while they will give a nasty bite if tested they don't go after humans, as a rule. If they were a genuine menace they'd be a concern in Lumpini Park where they laze around in full view at water's edge, but they're not.
According to the Bangkok Post there were two crocodiles shot and six others captures in Bang Bua Thong (near Nonthaburi, on the Northern outskirts of Bangkok) but the danger of the flooding came more from electrocutions, submerged hazards and contaminated water than it did from the reptiles. A major tourist attraction like the Samut Prakarn farm was undoubtedly protected by sandbagging and other barriers, and in the interest of revenue I'd say they must already be cleaned up and in operation, but you might call them and see if you're planning a trip out there now at the beginning of January. If you find out, let us know in the comments section below. Their main numbers are 02-2703-4891-5 and 02-2703-5144-8.
Another Apichart Weerawong photo from Nonthaburi area
Apologies on the detour, but it was a valid question - and since it's High Season and some of you may be in Bangkok considering a visit I felt it deserved an answer sooner rather than later.
Back to the main topic on Monday. See you back here then.
A crocodile smiles a welcome at the farm in Samut Prakarn
The Samut Prakarn Crocodile Farm and Zoo just outside of downtown Bangkok claims to be the largest in Thailand, and that's probably true. It's without a doubt the largest I've seen or heard of, and even if it isn't the largest farm it's home to the largest crocodile in captivity, Yai (meaning large); born at the farm in 1972, a couple of years after it opened. If you want to drop him a card his birthday's June 10.
Nearly 20 feet long and weighing in at 2,465 pounds (or 1118Kg) he is one big reptile, even being awarded his own listing in the Guinness Book of World Records. The photo below is one by the Farm, as both times I've seen him he's been mostly submerged and I haven't gotten a clear shot of him myself.
Nearly 20 feet Yai is indeed a large beast
Yai is just one of 100,000 crocodiles the farm claims to have on its 300 acres of grounds, in addition to a wide variety of other flora and fauna. I didn't attempt an inventory, but there were crocs of every size, color and variety; enough for the most rabid fan.
Youngprapakorn
For those who prefer their reptiles ready to wear there are plenty of shops and places to buy belts, bags, purses, briefcases and other items made from the specimens raised on the farm, both for their skins and for the edible meat.
The farm was opened in 1970, the brainchild of Utai Youngprapakorn. His original intent was much as it still is today: preserve the many varieties of crocodiles from extinction and provide a source of skins for the fashion industry in an effort to curb poaching in the wild. It's probably been a beneficial arrangement for all but those who've been harvested for shoes and the likes.
In addition to the reptile menagerie you'll also find areas for elephants, monkeys, birds, camels, lions, tigers and bears (oh my!) around the grounds, with an elephant show in its own small stadium. It was here on my first visit to the Land of Smiles that I found myself atop an elephant for the first time and crouched tentatively next to a tiger and a crocodile to have my photo taken. The tiger was somewhat sedated, but the crocodile was a meter longer than I am tall, and freshly hauled out of the water around the small "stage" island that a few of us were led out onto to pay Bt100 for the privilege of risking being bitten. Crocodiles have a total of 65 teeth - 35 on top, 30 on the bottom - and a vice-like grip once their jaws clamp down and that made me think twice, but I did it anyway.
There's a train to take you around the park, if you want, or you can hire a horse-drawn carriage to take you and a friend around. Paddle your way around on a small foot-powered pedal boat across a large pond (without crocodiles in it, naturally) or just wander the grounds on foot - there are plenty of places to stop and rest, and the grounds are nicely landscaped; planted to provide shade on the paths.
One small section of a series of elevated walkways above the large crocodile ponds
Presentations and shows happen on the hour (for elephants) or half hour (for the crocodile wrestling) throughout the day from 09:00 to 17:00, and there are other demonstrations and things going on, too. You can purchase raw chicken to drop from the elevated walkways into the snapping jaws of crocodiles who whip their bodies and tails around, knocking each other around in a frenzy to get at said tidbits.
Crocodiles fighting over chicken dropped from the walkway above
Albino and differently colored specimens are on view in many spots, some communally and some in solitary enclosures. I suggested to my Thai friend that maybe these isolated ones didn't play well with others, and looked at me wide-eyed and said "I wouldn't want to play with any of them!"
Rather than make the post too long again I'll split this into two or three parts. In the next post I'll share more images of the crocodiles themselves and maybe some of the elephants. I'm adding a couple of images (below) from their hand-out for those of you who want to read their translations to Chinese and French, and a map giving a rough idea of where it is. More on that next time, too.
A quick follow up on the first crocodile show clip from March 23rd: right after the young man got his hand snapped at while encouraging his show partner to stick his head into the crocodile's mouth - his partner did just that.
I thought I was going to post this clip a day or two after the first one, but I'm going to blame it on the brain drain. I think the rest of the files from that day are just stills, but I may find another clip at some point.
For reasons beyond me, this clip I uploaded to YouTube a few years ago has gotten linked to a number of other sites and continues to get a surprising number of viewings - to me, anyway.
Like many others I was there that afternoon in Samut Prakan primarily for the carefully rehearsed entertainment - but also the possibility of a mishap. As I understand it that rarely occurs, thankfully; most of the crocodiles have been worked with long enough to give the handlers a reasonably good idea of how they'll react to them, but hey - they are just reptiles, and the guys aren't much more than a "Crocky Snack" to them, if truth be known. It's a tourist stop I've enjoyed a couple of times, and will probably visit again.
There are a couple of graphic bite clips to be found out there (hey, wait... at least finish this post before you click away looking for them) but I'm happy with merely the vicarious thrill of the possibility I've enjoyed each visit.
I've been advised to place this notice, so here goes:
"The copyrights for the contents of this blog - both written words and photographs - are held by the author, unless otherwise noted. Permission to reprint or reproduce any content published here in any other format or form must be granted by the owner previous to use or publication."
Please contact me at baobaosblog@gmail.com. Thank you.
