Rain In Thailand, Part 2

Mild flooding on Second Road in Pattaya

Since there's an unusually heavy amount of rain in parts of Thailand right now it seemed an appropriate time to add another post on rain in Thailand to Part One.  September is usually the heaviest month of rain there - the season running from June through October - and you can expect some fairly dramatic rain at some point of the afternoon or evening, but parts of the country are being flooded, as they often are every season.

The pictures today were taken two years ago this month, when I was passing through Pattaya and happened to be caught at the mall one evening after dinner. Normally in rainy season I have a zip-lock bag folded up in my pocket for my wallet, camera, passport, whatever - but I'd been shopping some and couldn't manage to keep everything dry, so I'd hailed a taxi. The white spots in the photos are the large rain drops, caught by the flash.

Parked motorcycles on Second Road, axle-deep in water

Motorcycle taxi guys standing in the rain, hoping for a fare

Showing a turn and one of many, many storm drains

The driver was a little put out that I kept opening my window to take photos, but I dried things up before I got out and actually left a little of it cleaner than when I got in!

Youtube poster timpawlosk shared a clip/slideshow taken yesterday in Pattaya that a forum moderator was kind enough to post, and it's such a nice slice of (heavy) rainy day life that I thought I'd include it here today:



As long as we're on the subject of rain, here's the link to the post about Thai pop singer Sek Loso's song about a rainy day, "Fon Tak Tee Nah Taang".

Tipping Tips: Taxis, Restaurants, Etc.

Toh-Plue Restaurant, a nice oasis in the middle of Chatuchak Market

A while back we covered tipping hotel housekeeping and other staff who make your stay pleasant. Here's the follow up I promised for occasions where you may consider leaving a tip while away from your hotel. All of the suggestions today deal with more mainstream tourist encounters; taxis, restaurants and what I'm going to call "legitimate" massage venues, for lack of a better word. I know people in the play-for-pay business, but that's an entirely different kettle of fish for a different day.

Figuring that you're likely going to find yourself in a taxi to go out to eat, let's start there: Thai will rarely tip a taxi driver as a Westerner might, but rounding up the amount on the meter from something like 35 to 40 baht is acceptable and I'm rarely taken to task by Thai friends if I offer that sort of amount to a driver. However, if a driver has taken me to or through an area where I feel he's going to be penalized - say, through a congested area to somewhere he's not likely to find another fare for his return - then I may tip them an extra 10 to 20 baht.

[As a side note, drivers will usually decline to take you someplace where they're liable to be "stranded", and if they do they're liable to give you an inflated set price, so don't be surprised. Take these only if you don't care about cost.] However, when you're carrying shopping bags and the skies open up with a downpour akin to those seen by Noah that extra cost doesn't always seem quite as extravagant. My suggestion would be not to let it upset you and spoil an evening while on vacation.

Speaking of evenings, by the end of the day (or evening) it's my guess that taxi drivers can spot the weaker of us in the herd when we're shuffling slowly along and wishing we were already back at our room, but so it goes. Frankly, when I'm on holiday my comfort isn't usually worth being stubborn about when it comes to dealing with some licensed bandit in a taxi there - I sometimes just pay it, write it off as an expense of travel and get where I'm going - but that's up to yoooouuu, as you'll get used to hearing if you spend any time in the Kingdom at all!

There was one occasion where I deliberately (and grossly) over-tipped a taxi driver, and if you would like to you can read last April's post about Te the taxi driver here. There's also a little more to learn there about Thai taxis in general that we won't re-hash today. I got a lot more pleasure out of wondering about how his evening date went than I would have spending the same amount some other way, and it's made a nice story to tell every so often.

Restaurants are another area where a tip isn't usually expected, but if you're dining at a place frequented by Westerners who do tip - such as a more upscale restaurant - it can be a little frustrating if you don't have Thai friends along who feel comfortable telling you you're being either stingy or foolishly generous, and the Thai as a rule don't go for even gentle confrontations so you may be on your own. A rule of thumb that's worked for me (more often than not) is tipping 20 baht on your dinner tab. I've had it suggested that 10% of a tab that's come to $75USD isn't ostentatious, but again, you're probably in a nicer place, too.

Tips in many restaurants are put into a kitty that's divided at the end of the shift, but there's a way around that, if you wish. For example: if your bill is brought to you in a folder, what you put inside would go into the pool. What you put on top is meant for the person who has helped you, in most cases. If there's a question, discreetly hand the tip directly to the person you want to have it.

There was one occasion where the chef had cooked an excellent meal that the inattentive server didn't bring to my table until it was nearly cold, because he was chatting with friends and not doing his job. Without making a scene (although the cook was pretty surprised to see me) I walked into the kitchen after dinner, thanked them for a delicious meal and tipped the cook. I didn't stiff the waiter, but I left a meager amount. There was a lot of Thai chatter going on among the front house staff as we were leaving - and yes, I'm aware it's possible that not all of it was complimentary about yours truly.

For those of you who are likely to have a number of massages while in Thailand - actual massages, not what's euphemistically known as "a rub and a tug" - there are again no hard and fast rules about tipping. We're certainly not talking about something as uncomfortable sounding as Main Course Number 1 to the left.

In a storefront shop where you're probably going to pay anywhere between 150 and 250 baht for a 60- or 90-minute foot/leg/shoulder massage combination (depending on where you are) I personally don't feel that a tip of 100 baht is too much, nor is 200 baht too much for a 60- to 90-minute Thai or body massage.

I'm sure some who read this will disagree with me, and any comments are welcome as to what you've tipped. Again, we're talking about a non-sexual experience.

Although the baht has become stronger Thailand is still an inexpensive place to visit, compared to a lot of other places - so again my advice would be to shop around for the bigger ticket items (air fare, hotels and tours if you must) and give yourself some leeway with the day-to-day expenses. Personally I include treating the service providers I come in contact with with some respect - and to me that includes a fair and reasonable tip, where appropriate.

Safety Tip: Pickpockets On The Baht Bus

A song taew (baht bus) seating area

It's so easy to put our minds in "neutral" when we're on a holiday somewhere; there are so many different things to see, we're in unfamiliar surroundings and don't want to miss anything. It's also easy to lose track of reality if one's been drinking, especially if that's to excess.

Drunks are priority targets for pickpockets and others who would take advantage of because they're far more likely to be unaware of what's going on around them. Come to think of it, that was my prime directive back in the distant past when I would throw away time getting drunk - but I digress. The weary, lost and confused are just below drunks for the same reason: they're distracted.

Pickpockets have probably been a problem since before the event of recorded history, but in tourist areas or places where poverty pushes people to act in ways they wouldn't in better times it's more common, and the tourist meccas of Thailand are certainly fertile territory for them.

Song taews (more commonly known as baht buses) perhaps aren't as easy for a pickpocket to work as a moving crowd might be - say, watching a fireworks show - but they can be full, and a person sitting directly next to you could be skilled in relieving you of your possessions. The key is to be aware of your surroundings, who's around you and - more importantly - where your valuables are at all times. Your run-of-the-mill pickpocket doesn't want to confront you so usually you're distracted so they can do their job. Bumping into you, slipping a hand into your pocket or handbag, carefully slicing a pocket with a razor to slip a wallet out - all of these things can - and do - happen in a heartbeat.

The author of the fine (albeit currently dormant) blog Rice Queen Diary told me a wonderful story a couple of weeks ago that I hope he'll get around to writing about if and when he feels like it, but it was an excellent example of what we're talking about here today. Upon going through the 3,000+ pictures I took this last trip I came across these three, although I'd already forgotten about them by the time I had lunch the following week with RQD.

I'd taken the header photo just as a reference picture before noticing the warning signs you see below. The pickpocket warning isn't something I've seen all that often, but the news regularly features stories about this tourist or that being ripped off. Again: don't be paranoid, but BE AWARE.

After seeing the pickpocket warning I glanced over and noticed the second sticker which I'm guessing was more of a joke. It wasn't so much a warning as a reminder of common decency, but since it made me laugh I'm sharing it with you.

Remembering "The First Time"

The runways of Don Muang Airport are in the upper left hand corner of this shot, taken in 2003

Our Japan Air Lines flight arrived at the "old" Don Muang airport in Bangkok right on schedule at 23:40 local time, 21 hours after we'd taken off from San Francisco International to start our journey. My friend Eric had already made this 8,000 mile journey once before, and I was so glad to have him along with me on my first trip into Asia. Being detail-oriented can be a good thing when traveling into a completely foreign land, and I was so slack-jawed (and jet lagged) that I just wandered along beside him, gazing around as though I'd landed on the moon instead of Thailand.

Despite the cautionary tales I’d read online and heard from others we breezed right through our Immigration procedures - having our passports stamped and receiving our visas good for the standard 30-day tourist visit. Our luggage arrived soon after we got to the claim area, snaking through the crowd on one of those twisting, turning lengths of plates that parade the bags around and around. I was traveling relatively light, but I did have gifts for a few friends there; something I've continued to do each trip since. It doesn't take much to show you've thought of someone, and it makes points with people there the same as it would anywhere.

We walked through customs in the “Nothing to Declare” line, along with a good 75% of the rest of the folks on our plane. All earlier apprehensions about electronics, cameras, my laptop and the overall bother of a “rummage-through-your-bags-just-for-the-hell-of-it” session drifted away as we pushed out carts out through the arriving passenger area of Terminal One to the main arrival gate.

I was so happy to see my friend standing at one side to greet us that when I spotted him in the waiting crowd I nearly veered my luggage cart directly over to him behind the low barrier at the edge of the queue to say hello. Just as well I didn’t as there were people with their own carts all around me and I probably would have crippled someone with mine in the process.

My friend had stayed late at his job not far from the airport to come meet us near midnight rather than make his usual two hour commute back to his home, saying he wanted to make sure we weren't taken advantage of by the taxi drivers. He seemed a little out of his element here but I understood why when I found out it was his first trip to the international terminal too – such is the nature of English/Thai communications! Here was a living example of what I’d read about Thai hospitality.

Eric and I pushed our baggage carts out through the terminal doors and felt the wall of warm, humid air hit us. It was past midnight, but the temperature was still in the mid-80s Fahrenheit - and the humidity was so high it made the air feel heavy.

At the curb outside our "host" flagged down a taxi to get us to the Asia Hotel where we’ll be for six nights. We had a difficult time explaining to him that a total of 7 pieces of luggage large and small plus four people was going to be a stretch in a small taxi, and unfortunately put him in the embarrassing situation of having to wave the driver off after he'd parked for us. We went back into the terminal lobby and rented a minibus to take us and our junk to the hotel at a cost of Bt1,000 - about $33USD today.

The young man behind the counter at the rental agency was as close to a kathoey as I’d seen so far. Kathoeys are are an accepted part of Thai society that we'll cover properly another time, but basically the term covers a wide variety of males considered to be the third sex: many gay, some transvestites, some living as females, some making a medical transformation to “become” female - Thailand being one of a few countries fairly liberal in performing that procedure, assuming you can pay for it. This young man had a beautiful face - with skin many women would kill for - framed by long silky black hair that he repeatedly swept out of his face with long, carefully manicured and clear-lacquered nails, eyeing the two of us “white” guys and our Thai friend, giving him a “how the hell did you rate TWO?” look that my friend missed but I caught and smiled about most of the way to the van.

Once the luggage was safely loaded into the van and we were seated inside we finally had a chance to look around us and enjoy the ride out of the airport complex and onto the nearly-deserted, elevated toll expressway to the hotel. From as high up as it was it gave us a great panoramic view of the downtown skyline and night sky.

My body was howling for sleep by that point but my excitement hadn't flagged a bit as I yawned, gazed out at this new place and smiled out the window with satisfaction.

I'd made it. I was finally in Thailand!

Songtaew, Pt 1 - A Taxi For Everyman

You can't do much reading about visiting or living in Thailand without running across the word "songtaew" (sometimes written as two words - song taew). I had to stop and look it up the first time I read it too, thinking it was a bus - and in many ways it is; it's just a more casual type of bus. I think they're not only fun but great exposure to locals and local life and ride them as often as possible.

In many places throughout the kingdom you can hop into the back of one of these covered pickup trucks with benches along the sides in back( over the wheel wells) and ride. The trick is to know when to push the button to let the driver know where you want them to stop and let you off. After you get out you go up to the window and hand the driver your fare - usually 10 baht.

If you're able to get the driver to understand you you can ask before boarding to go to a specific place, but by doing so you've hired the vehicle as a taxi and the rate will go up to whatever the driver thinks you're good for - often 100 baht or more. If you're someplace smaller - like Pattaya - don't pay more than this, and just politely wave them off if they won't lower their price. 95% of the time they'll take the 100 baht. If the price is reasonable and worth it to you (and on some days it certainly is, depending on my schedule and how I'm feeling at the time) you've just hired a driver!

Be especially aware of other riders sitting next to you, as there are countless stories of pickpockets working solo or in teams on these rides, especially when they're crowded.

A local might be able to explain the routes to you, but I'd encourage you to bring a pocketful of "mai pen rai" along if you're honestly thinking of getting from Point A to Point B in a hurry without a hitch. If you've got time for an adventure, though, they're a wonderful way of getting around.

If you're with a local, do not miss the opportunity to ride them as often as possible.

Te, The Taxi Driver

It was dangerously close to commute time and I knew it wasn’t going to be easy getting a taxi back to my room near the Chao Phraya river. I’d already walked a half-dozen blocks trying to catch one who was willing to make the trip but not many were available. The first one that stopped for me wasn’t interested and waved me off, leaving me at curbside.

The second one said “400 baht!” - which was outrageous. I’d said “OK, chock dee,” (good luck) as I’d closed the door and watched him wedge his way back into the stream of traffic, but in my mind I was thinking “kiss my ass, buddy,” – out of character for me so I knew I was worn thin.

Barely back onto the sidewalk I noticed a taxi with the red “available” light on pulling to the curb close to me, evidently seeing the previous one as he crawled along. I opened the passenger door and told him where I was going, and when he said “100 Baht” I agreed and more or less dropped into the front seat beside him, relieved. I knew it was a little higher than I’d have paid had he used the meter, but maybe not a lot because of the distance, location and the hour of the day.

After re-adjusting the aircon he’d set to “FARANG” when I got in I settled in for what was probably going to be a long ride. We moved along in stops and starts but being the passenger I was able to look around, people watch and rest my eyes a little now that I was out of the direct sun and heat. As I often do I asked his name, and he introduced himself as Te. Glancing at the license on display in every taxi there I looked over at him, and noticed that the two faces didn’t match. That’s not all that uncommon, I’ve learned, but there was a resemblance so I asked him about it.

“My father,” he said. His dad drives the taxi at night and many days Te drives it while his father sleeps. If he gets caught it’s a 100 baht fine, but that rarely happens, he said. He spoke some English, thank goodness, and that made the trip more pleasant as we could visit a little bit. He was 28 at the time and lived at home with his parents and two younger sisters a ways out of central Bangkok. He laughed easily and often, and enjoyed seeing some of the photos I’d taken that afternoon on the camera screen while we sat at intersections, waiting for the red lights to count down.

I mentioned that he reminded me a little bit of Sek Loso, a Thai singer I’ve enjoyed and he laughed heartily, partly from surprise “You know Loso??” and partly at my comparison. He said he would tell his girlfriend that when he saw her in a few hours. I don’t recall her name, but they’d been together for two years and he was thinking she was “the one” and that they’d probably marry soon. Actually, he hadn’t really wanted to drive the cab today but was doing so because she’d been away for a couple of weeks and he wanted to take her to dinner someplace and needed the money, so he was skipping his regular afternoon of football with the guys he played with.

Te had enough experience driving to know the back streets and got me home in a little more than 30 minutes. Normally when the fare’s been set off meter I figure they’ve already gotten a tip built into it, so I don’t tip on top of that, but I’d enjoyed visiting with him so decided to go it one better: instead of a single 100 baht bill, I handed him four. “Take your girlfriend to dinner,” I said “I’m paying.”

His eyes widened with surprise and he broke into a grin, giving me a wai and thanking me. Since I already had the camera out and on I took his picture and asked “Where do you go now?” He smiled again and replied “Home, shower.” I closed the door and watched him pull away.