Amphawa Getaway: Getting Out Of Dodge

Our riverside table view of the Mae Klong river, making it's way to the Gulf of Thailand

A friend drove me to Amphawa for a few days a while back. Depending on traffic it takes a couple of hours to drive Southwest of Bangkok and into the Samut Songkhram district to Amphawa, a reasonably quiet town that straddles the Mae Klong river as it flows its last stretch to the Gulf of Thailand.

My friend arrived around 09:00 to collect me and my stuff from the lobby of my Bangkok hotel, and off we went for four days without me having a clue as to where we were going. My friend likes to surprise me with places he thinks I'll like, and so far he's been right on the money with his guesses.  All he told me before we set out was that (A) it would only take a couple of hours to get there from Bangkok, (B) it was going to be peaceful, (C) he had resisted his usual habit of over-booking things to do while we were there and (D) that it was a place where I would see very few other farang.  That alone made it worth trying, so I was all in.


After crossing the Kanchanaphisek bridge we made our way to Highway 25 and went off in a somewhat Southwesterly direction and past the largely sea port district of Samaut Sakorn, where my friend was born and raised. My friend being a cautious driver we moved along at the speed limit for a while, talking and listening to music as we went
. 

He asked "Are you hungry?" and I had to admit I was, since breakfast had been at 06:30 when the kitchen opened.  "We're almost to the place I'd like to take you," he said, and took a turn off of the highway. He invariably picks places I enjoy, so I was anticipating a delicious lunch, and so it turned out to be. You can enlarge the menu to the left to look at the prices by clicking on it - if you can read Thai.


After a few more turns he parked on a tree-lined road across from the entrance to Baan Chom Duen resort's restaurant.  Constructed of heavy wood planks and posts it had a rugged look, but was largely an open-air place, with some indoor seating.  The wood piers out over the water provided a lot of riverside seating with picturesque views of the Mae Khlong river. The top picture today was taken from my seat at the riverside railing of our table, beneath an umbrella, with a refreshing, fresh breeze coming over the water. 

The water monitor (veranus salvator) lizard swimming around below the railing we were sitting next to didn't do much for my friend. "I really don't like those," he shuddered, bewildered that I was so entertained by it. "I think they're disgusting."  "It's not like I'm going to invite it up to eat with us," I replied, taking a few pictures of it as it moved around, oblivious to us. "Disgusting," he said again.

You're likely to see these creatures if you go wandering through Lumphini Park in Bangkok, and some of them there are much bigger than this one. I'd guess ours here was a little over a meter long - say, four foot - but they can grow to over three meters (10 feet) long and weigh as much as 25Kg, or 50+ pounds.  Ours swam under the flooring below our table, and my friend was uneasy until it swam back out from under and headed up-river.

The boats you can see in the picture above the lizard are for hire; sometimes just for a dinner cruise, but more often for an early evening sail up the river to see what can be thousands of fireflies in the greenery onshore. The area is known for them, and they're such a refreshing change from the glaring neon of Bangkok.  There's another view of the boats below.

Lunch was amazing.  If I'm careful not to sear my somewhat sensitive tongue with peppers or fiery sauces I'm almost always impressed by the wide variety of tastes, aromas and blends of flavors that are true Thai cooking.  We had a whole sea bass (below) that was 10 inches (25cm) long, served with fresh, crisp garnish and a small dish of old style sauce ( papaya, chili, lime, etc.) that really wasn't needed - the flavor of the fish was rich enough itself.  Naturally, we also had rice and a noodle dish that was a little too hot for my liking, but I make sure my friends have something they want, too - that's only fair.  If I don't insist it's often just what they think I want, and then I miss out on new things. Rarely a good idea.

A colorful and tasty dish... but spicy!

Finishing lunch we got back into the car and headed the short distance to our destination for the next few days: the Ban Kung Maenam Home Stay, also right along and over the Mae Khlong river.  That story next time.

Chao Phraya's Kanchanaphisek Bridge

If you're heading out in a somewhat Southeasterly direction through Bangkok along Route 9 towards Samut Prakan, past the 150 foot tall (50 meter) three-headed elephant looming above the Erawan Hindu temple on your right you'll probably find yourself heading towards the Kanchanaphisek bridge and over the Chao Phraya river.  The Erawan temple and museum are a topic for another day soon, but let's stay in the car for now and just get to the bridge.

Other than the top image today that I took the last time I went over the bridge, all of the others I've found online. I'd love to be able to take credit for them, but frankly they haven't printed enough money yet in total to get me up to the top of the tower pictured to the left here.  I don't like to stand on a chair to change a light bulb.

The six-lane bridge is relatively new, and an arm of the Southern part of what is called the Outer Ring Road. Construction began in 2001, I believe, and it was opened near the end of 2007.

The rest of the photos today give you an idea of what the construction looked like as the towers stood alone, the approach was put out to meet them and the sections of road bed were moved up, piece by piece, by barge and crane over the wide and busy Chao Phraya.

Why was I on the bridge?  Ah.  Well, that story starts Thursday. Family obligations are keeping me from making a post on the 13th, sorry to say..

The approach roadway in 2001

Another tower view I'll never see in person

Barges bring sections of road bed to be raised by crane

The road bed nears completion

The road bed in place, the bridge is nearly ready to open

The Chao Phraya empties into the Gulf of Thailand at the top of this image

Same Same, But Different! Part 8: Personal Grooming Products

I tried this Vaseline lotion, but I still don't look like the man on the billboard.

Anyone who has already visited Thailand knows about this. If you're in that group, you're excused for the day, but the rest of you are welcome to stick around and maybe learn something new.


We first looked at the phrase "same same, but different" back in April of last year. It's one you'll hear on your first visit, and here's another example of how things here and there are indeed the same... but different, even if only slightly this time.

Personal grooming products eat up a huge percentage of disposable income in the West; for many people, anyway. Some of us are are more vain than others, so that percentage varies.  I'm one of the least vain folks you'd ever meet, trust me.  I very rarely follow a fad, I don't buy fancy soaps or colognes and I don't make fashion statements as much as I do fashion slurs. That said, I keep myself cleaner than many, practice good oral hygiene, wear deodorant and dress respectfully for whatever the situation calls for.  

The Thai are, in general, a very clean group.  Some of that undoubtedly has been handed down through history because of the very nature of the hot, humid climate there, but  tropical hygiene really only requires basic soap and water, used while bathing regularly. It doesn't require high-cost "foo foo", as  my brother used to call it, but Americans spend billions on hair care, skin care and cosmetics.  While the Neisen ratings people said 80% of us in the US agree that regular brands of these are just as good as the fancy name brands, those still have quite a market... and it's a lot the same all around the world, including those with more disposable income in Thailand.

A night market stall displaying personal grooming products

You certainly see a lot of personal products for sale in Thailand - from the higher end label stores in the glitzy malls to stalls in the local morning markets.   The advertising for it seems to be just as prominent (and pervasive) there as it does here at home, although I wasn't entirely sure if the billboard up top was so much an ad for the Vaseline lotion as it was an idea for traffic control by way of hot air blasting.

A stall stacked high in a Pattaya morning market

Skin lightening creams are popular, as the feeling among many there is that the lighter your skin tone the higher your social ranking, but that's true in many countries, cultures and, indeed, races themselves. An African-American friend's mother used to reign in his uppity attitude by telling him "Don't you go getting all 'high tone' on me," and I'm guessing you can think of similar examples yourselves.


I'm not criticizing anyone who buys a lot of "better" name brand shampoos, cosmetics, soaps, creams or lotions at all.  Rather, take this as a repeated suggestion that you may well be able to find them for less in Thailand, so save some weight within your baggage allowance and consider stocking up.  In fact, many of the same items you buy here can be found there for noticeably less.  Try one of the cavernous Big C or Tesco-Lotus stores there, even if only just to browse a bit or pick up items you forgot back at home.


Let the Sensodyne toothpaste by the register in the photo below serve as another reminder that although you're in a foreign land, there are plenty of things that are "same-same, but different".

Toothpaste and other impulse items at the Tesco-Lotus registers

Thai Smiles, Part 36: Random Shots For A Friday

Even though you've just seen a Thai Smiles post there are many who've let me know how much they enjoy them, so I figure all but a couple of you will cut me some slack for posting another few random images today.

These were taken over the past 9 years or so, give or take.

The girls to the left were laughing after seeing the image of themselves on my camera's view screen, and they went at it all the harder after seeing this one. This wasn't the first time they'd had their picture taken, of course; but for the first shot I'd encouraged them to make a goofy face -and when they saw how they looked in it they just lost it.

The girl up top was on her way to school in the countryside near Surin when I asked my friend (and guide for Isaan trip) Suphot to stop next to them so I could take their picture from the passenger seat.

Below is a guy who was trucking bags in on a dolly one morning; and although the first (posed) picture didn't come out well I thought this one was actually more interesting.

The last picture today is of a woman at a morning market in Udonthani who stopped for me while loading supplies into her stall. I met so many wonderful people on that Isaan trip.

Enjoy your weekend, all. See you again on Monday.

Thai Smiles, Part 35: The Motocy Taxi Guy

It was late in the day and the heat had been unforgiving that afternoon. I'd been wandering around taking pictures in an area near Lumphini Park and was overheated, thirsty and a little cranky, so I'd gone into a 7-Eleven store on my way back to my room to get something cold to drink and literally chill out a bit under an air conditioning vent.

Coming out of the store I had an open can of soda in one hand and my camera in the other when a guy held out what I took to be one of those little brochure/flyer pieces of street junk that promote different places where men (and the occasional woman, I suppose) can hire a female to do a form of massage that falls a little to the liberal side of "whoopie". Some advertise they also have Jacuzzi tubs full of women and offer guarantees of visits to heaven - for a fee.

"Mai ow (I don't want it)," I growled, shaking my head. "Go away!" The guy grinned and held it up again, this time opened up to one of the more colorful images and looked at me with disbelief, as if I couldn't possibly not want to know more about these lovely sirens of Bangkok. Realizing it's just his job to hand them out I motioned for him to put it into my shirt pocket, told him thank you and turned to move on. "Ten baht?" he asked as I turned, and since I felt a little bad about growling at him I fumbled with the coins still in my hand from the store and dropped one into his hand. He thanked me and went on to his next mark.

While finishing my soda I stood for a few minutes watching a lottery vendor selling tickets to a small crowd that had gathered at his table, then dropped the empty can into the trash bin outside of the store and continued back to my room.

As I rounded the corner there was a l-o-n-g line of motorcycle drivers waiting for fares. Since I already had my camera out I thought I'd take a picture of this line up, stretched out at least half-way down the block. They looked bored. One of them looked up, hoping I wanted to pay him to take me somewhere but before he could even get the usual "Where you go?" I said "Sorry, going to my room", pointing to my hotel at the other end of the block.

Since I had his attention I asked if it was OK for me to take his photo, and he gamely agreed. When I said "Yim (smile)!" he said "Can not. Not happy. Two customer today."

I didn't quite buy that, but I suppose it was possible he'd had a lean day. Fishing the girlie flyer out of my pocket I said "Here... now I think you'll smile," and he asked hopefully "I take you here?" "No thanks," I replied "I don't like ladies." "AHhhh!" he smiled, knowingly; still gazing at the brochure as I took his photo. I showed him the image on the screen and said "You see? NOW you're smiling!" He laughed and said "Yes, lady make me happy."

I pulled two of my usual 20 baht "random tip" notes out of the same pocket where the booklet had been, folded them together and handed them to the man. He looked puzzled. "Where you go? You pay after." Pointing again at my hotel down the block I said "I'm walking, but that's for your bad day with only two customers."

"Thank you," he smiled - and three other drivers around him held out their hands, too. Surprised at how quick they'd reacted I laughed out loud, and as I walked off I called back to the first guy "Show them your flyer - maybe that'll cheer them up!"

Jatujak Market, Part 6: Fish And Aquariums

It's been a while since we've ventured back into the seemingly endless expanse of retail and wholesale mayhem that is the Jatujak weekend market, so here's part six. You can read the other five by clicking on the "Jatujak" label in the right-hand column and scrolling down.

A self-proclaimed advanced hobbyist with "a huge collection of fish" in their home asked a few weeks ago if there were more pictures of aquarium stalls and shops there, and there were - I just had to find them. I've done over 10 expeditions into JJ market (as some Thai friends call it) and tend to wind my way through it, taking pictures of whatever catches my eye. I apologize I'd put off wading through the thumbnails and looking for them this long, but here are some I've found for you ichthyologists-at-heart out there.

Aquariums are just as popular in Thailand as they are here in the USA - probably more so, in my opinion. A bowl or tank of fish isn't unusual to see here, but I've never seen aquatic furniture like you may remember from Part 4, where there was a living room table that held water and fish. Another is below. Understandably, $300USD is a bit much for most Thai to spend on a novelty such as this for their home, but obviously enough do to support the industry.

From my experience what's more likely to be seen are your standard rectangular tanks with a pump and filter, most not needing a heating device any more than a basic home there would; it just doesn't get that cold, except in an enclosed structure that's regularly air conditioned. Heating units for tanks are available, naturally; I saw some in the shop stall below.

While heaters, pumps, supplies, fish foods and decorative accessories for aquariums are cheaper there, remember that Thailand's current runs at 220V and may not be compatible with your power supply back home without a transformer of some sort. Otherwise, if you have a generous weight allowance for your baggage home you can stock up for yourself or bring things back for friends.

As a point of reference, as of today it's about 30 baht to 1USD

Naturally, bringing live fish through customs in your homeland probably isn't allowed (it isn't for an ordinary US citizen, for example), but your own customs people can answer that for you before you go. All they can do is say "no", correct?

As a gift for a new or existing friend in Thailand a basic set-up is an idea. It won't set you back very much, and is a more practical gift for a working person than a puppy, kitten or bird. Just a suggestion that's worked for me in the past. As I find more of these pictures I'll set them aside and re-visit this topic again.

Bags of colorful specimens are available to select from at dozens of stalls at Jatujak

An Unusual Commute Moment In Bangkok

A short clip to share with you today that was found on a drive I didn't think existed any more. It was taken one morning a few years back while walking a friend to catch his ride to work from the Victory Monument area. It was before I started using an HD device, so it'a a little grainy.

Normally this area is an absolute zoo by 07:30, but when the signal lights align just right there are some slower pockets - although the dull roar of the trucks, buses, cars and scooters is always there.

Happy Birthday, USA

It's the 4th of July where I am; a national holiday devoted to family gatherings, picnics, BBQ, fireworks and overindulgence on several levels.

For the sizable percentage of regular readers who are also observing the holiday here: have a safe and sane holiday!

Forgive me repeating an image but I don't have any good fireworks shots from trips there yet, and this one of a fire dancer in Chiang Mai has long been a favorite. It brings back memories for me of a festive evening with some very good friends.

Back tomorrow.

Where Latex Begins: Rubber Tree Farms

A grove of Para rubber trees on a farm in Thailand, where their latex "milk" is collected

Having recently spent a number of days sitting at the side of someone's hospital bed I've seen enough rubber gloves to last me years, thank you. It used to be that all such hand protection was made from latex, but in our allergy-sensitive world you now sometimes see them made from nitrile.

Topics for conversation can run thin after a few days of visiting in the hospital, and one afternoon we got to talking about the gloves: how nice it would be to have the disposable glove concession for the hospital, what other uses there could be other than wearing them on your hands (you'd be surprised how many there are if you put your mind to it) - that sort of thing. Naturally, eventually it was brought up that there was another more personal use for latex that was not only more enjoyable but saved lives, if used as directed, which gave us topics to cover the rest of the afternoon, to the amusement of all - including the patient sharing the room.

Granted, not all condoms are made with latex any more; polyurethane entered the game in 1994 and polyisoprene joined the cause in 2008, but for all intents and purposes latex is still king.

Someone asked if latex was manufactured in a lab or came from nature. The simple answers are yes, and yes - latex can be made in the lab, but it more often than not comes from the milky liquid of the para rubber tree, or Hevea brasiliensis, originally from Brazil. It's now found throughout many warmer countries where there is no danger of frost, which can quickly ruin the elastic properties of the crop.

The tree responds well to (and recovers well from) diagonal slices made past the bark layer which then produce the milky liquid that you see being collected in a cup in the photo to the left.

If you've traveled through agricultural areas of Thailand you may have gone right past groves of these trees and not noticed the tell-tale diagonal stripes left by season after season of fresh cuts to generate the milky latex "sap", or the small cups hung on the trees to catch it; much like the juice that becomes maple syrup is collected in the Northeast parts of the US and elsewhere. Even without enlarging the image up top you can see the diagonal bands on the trees.

A staggeringly high percentage of condoms available in the USA are labeled "Made in Thailand", so the next time you're using latex as a precaution during an intimate moment (and it's my fervent hope that you do), you can thank trees like these in Southeastern Thailand, who did their part to keep you safe... while you're doing yours.

Cabaret At The Mall

It was busier than normal when I ducked into the Chareonsri (now Central) Shopping Mall in Udonthani one afternoon to escape what had become an especially merciless afternoon heat. I thought I'd just find a spot to sit and people watch until my core temperature got back within an acceptable range, but there were none to be found.

Glancing upward I could see it didn't appear to be all that busy on the upper floors, but there was a crowd gravitating toward some music coming from around a nearby corner on the ground floor that made it a bit of a challenge to get around so I shuffled slowly along with the herd, thinking I'd veer out of the crowd at some point and find myself something cool to drink. Before I'd reached the turn in the walkway the movement stopped completely as people began piling up in Standing Room Only formation behind a small sea of chairs facing a raised stage.

Less than five minutes later spotlights came on and began sweeping the stage area, some sort of brass fanfare heralding the start of the show. An announcer began speaking in Thai, joined every so often by a wave of applause from the crowd, now primed and ready for whatever it was that was about to happen. They knew, but I couldn't read the signage and, as I've shared before, my Thai is sadly lacking - especially when it comes to rapid-fire native speakers.

What I could make out was that this was a presentation by the Tourism Authority of Thailand and was evidently a promotional tour by a song-and-dance group, perhaps drumming up visitors for another area of the country. It made me think of some of the cabaret (good and bad) that I've seen in Thailand, but this was outside of a nightclub setting. To me it almost seemed a little out of place, but it didn't to the crowd: they cheered and applauded this free afternoon entertainment and seemed to enjoy every minute of it, as did I.

As the show ended the crowd dispersed and the staff and crew began dragging and stacking the plastic chairs off into one spot while a few of us stopped to say hello to the performers as they talked amongst themselves "backstage", apparently pleased with how the show had gone. Three of them were happy to pose for me when I asked, and that photo's up top.