Dongtan Beach Massage

Dongtan is a beach in Jomtien at the end of Thappraya Road, right where it curves sharply left and becomes Beach Road. If you're on foot at that turn and make a right at the (what else?) 7-11 on the corner there's a long stretch of promenade that parallels the sand and ubiquitous umbrellas/chair concessions.

On the wide strip of sand between the walkway and umbrellas there are invariably a number of blankets spread out, each with a massage guy crouching over someone flat on their back or belly. Their clients are people they've found as they walk along in the shade under the umbrellas, going from group to group and chair to chair. "Massage?" they'll ask, quietly, "Foot massage? Neck massage? Head massage? Body massage?" Some are more persistent than others, but if you say no they move along; plenty of other fish in the sea - or in this case tourists along the shore. Hundreds, actually.

If you agree to a foot massage it's done right there in your beach chair with them sitting on something facing you, propping your feet up on their leg or lap while you read, listen to music, sip your drink or whatever it was they interrupted when they came by to ask for your business. Head and neck massages are done where you sit, too, but if you agree to a body massage they'll wait while you gather your things and lead you back to their spot on the sand, next to the promenade.

[Note: It's always prudent to take valuables with you when you leave "your" chair, but basics like your towel, sunscreen and simple items are usually safe. After all, you've rented the chair from the concessionaire for a fee and it's yours for the day. Most places keep an eye on their turf, though, and that includes what you've set down if you go into the water or wander off to use the hong nam (toilet) or something.]

While out walking one afternoon I came upon a few guys on one of the blankets on what I assumed was either a slow day or break time between rounds to trawl for customers. One was doing double-duty: walking on the back of a friend while massaging the head of another. Ah, the benefits of friendship!


There's something close to ethereal about being able to lie under swaying palm trees with the smell of BBQ shrimp wafting over you, the sounds of the nearby surf mixed with the whisper of the palms, punctuated by the call of the birds flying between them while someone does a credible massage for you - but it's not for everyone. The sand can be hard and unforgiving (not to mention gritty if it sticks to lotion or oil), there can sometimes be bugs buzzing around your head and there are people walking the promenade, just 10 feet away from you.

Europeans tend to be less bothered by nudity than some (most certainly less than the modest Thai themselves) and they, too, are on display. I don't notice most of it, myself; I personally often feel those who are the least covered usually have the least attractive wares to display. More often than not I see a falang flashing on the beach and ask "Do we really have to see that?"

A pair of guys were working over a couple on the same blanket one afternoon, and the woman was topless. The guy working on her boyfriend was doing his best to concentrate on the business at/in/under hand, but just couldn't seem to to keep his eyes averted, as you'll see in the photo's inset below). Watching him I had to laugh, and when he realized he was "busted," (OK, pun intended there) he rolled his eyes and laughed silently, too, giving me a wink.